Member postings for not done it yet

Apart from registering problems, which is clearly particular to the forum, I can (no longer) access f7les on yahoo fora, it seems. I can list files and the individual jpg/pdf but that is as far as it progresses. Anyone else have this problem?

Also says, "MAY BE FATAL"

More than dihydrogen monoxide in the wrong concentration?

Edited By not done it yet on 19/12/2017 15:45:15

Sounds a bit like this stuff **LINK** sold for use in a domestic environment........and clearly has a label which says 'danger' on it!

Edited By not done it yet on 19/12/2017 10:20:03

Question to ask is how much water might be taken in if the (faulty) seal actually failed completely. A dripping tap of the historical brass seat type would soon drip much faster due to the brass being cut away by the initial tiny water jet under pressure.

But, yes, it is a relatively trivial problem to get sorted, I would think. Probably need extra greasy packing, or for the gland nut to be tightened half a turn!

more like an overgrown shotgun cartridge.

Not 'overgrown' at all. A normal gauge cartridge. Admittedly rather bigger than a .410, but they just used the size for the job. It was an 8 gauge. Some wildfowling shotguns used a 4 gauge cartridge. I suppose most out there only think of the most common shotgun size - the 12 bore.

You can work out the diameter using the standard density for lead and 4/3 Pi r^3. Without checking, a 12 gauge is about 0.718".  More like a cannon shell case than a bullet, I suppose. 

Edited By not done it yet on 19/12/2017 07:33:51

would prefer to use something a little safer

Wouldn't we all! But do remember that even dihydrogen monoxide can be lethal in the wrong circumstances. If used properly and utilising all the ppe recommended, sulphuric acid is safe to use. I would not say perfectly safe because there is always the human element, of the operation, that may not be reliable. It is concentrated sulphuric acid one should really worry about - a great deal more than pickling concentrations.

I used hot concentrated acids and alkalis at work and it never bothered me - because we took the necessary precautions for handling such corrosive (or poisonous) compounds.

Presumably you never arc weld? Never use oxy acetylene (or oxypropane or even propane/air) to heat things really hot? Would never contemplate using anything as dangerous as a lathe or milling machine?

Do your risk assessment, take all reasonable precautions - and it will be safe enough.

Choose a NATO standard cartridge so that in an emergency you just hoik the bullet out of one?

They would need wads and a crimper - modern propellants only burn fast and clean under pressure. Not a real problem, I suppose - just use a far bigger case than required?

One problem with starting those Field Marshall engines was if that smouldering insert (of the size he was using) got trapped under the decompression valve. Didn't happen often, but was a bit of a b****r when it did, apparently. The starting handle supplied was long enough for two people to swing it. It is hard work on your own!

How to start a tractor with a shotgun cartridge ?

Not particularly a project for a Field Marshall. It was an factory alternative to cranking when on your own (if very lightly - or weakly - built) or in the depths of winter when manual cranking was much more difficult. Making you own reloads might have been a project!

Enquire at Arceurotrade? I am positively certain that Ketan, for sure, can fix you up with something appropriate for your needs.

Perhaps the exasperated reply was directed at the pi55 takers, mainly? There is a difference between being unable to help (within the current available information) and the replies from certain parties to a new forum member?

Just thought for food.....

Edited By not done it yet on 16/12/2017 19:41:49

I don't believe you will weld mazak in the way welding works - ie fusing the metal by melting at the joints, often using a filler to build up the joint. Filling with a braze type of filler is possible by careful selection and careful temperature control, but brazing is not welding - just higher temperature than most soldering.

Mazak is just what it is-a cheap diecasting material, often susceptible to expansion if stored in damp conditions.

It's coming from a 3 phase workshop.

240V three phase or 415V three phase? Start there.

So contact work only on a car etc

There are lots of cheap multimeters suitable for use on cars - most of which I would likely avoid, mind.

Might be useful elsewhere, I suppose...

We only ever ground one cutter for the Wadkin...

An alternative to building a shaper attachment for the lathe is to pick up a small shaper, like an Adept, and use that for keyway cutting. The slideways and ram are built with plenty of rigidity for very good reason. Weighty, perhaps, but doesn't take up too much storage. Saves thrashing (or even trashing) the lathe.

The Alexander I have is very capable of cutting internal slots of any size I will ever need. The Drummond is even more capable.

Norman,

Not to be recommended for a Raglan Litte John - and I suspect the Loughborough uses the same parts in the apron, for the longitudinal carriage travel. The L/J pinion, shaft and apron bearing were a weak point - the 5" was beefed up considerably, but I would still not use it for cutting keyways in that fashion. The hemmingway and other examples where the cutter is moved with the long travel locked down is, by far, the better option IMO.

You will shortly have a PM, regarding another matter.

That 'button' on the switch is normally a press to operate (or release, to disengage the contacts). Simple as that. Normally a cam or lever presses against that button to close the contacts (of a normally 'open' device).

Micro switches come in basically two versions - normaly closed or normally open contacts; yours is a normally open version, so that button needs to be depressed to make the elecrical contact which will allow you to start (and run) the machine.

These devices are not meant to be accessible for that button to be used as a test button. They are concealed, covered, or whatever, and operate remotely (by you closing the guard properly, in this example) as a safety feature. They can be removed/bypassed from the circuit at the operator's risk, as suggested for testing purposes.

Hope this makes things clearer - ie when the guard is properly located, something on the guard shaft should be closing those contacts (pressing on that button sufficiently to hold the contacts closed). If the contacts are not closed sufficiently, the machine will either not start or may stop during operation if contact is lost, even momentarily.

Editedvto add that there is often a longer lever over that button which willdepress the button from a distance remote to the actual microswitch location  Google images of microswitches and things may become clear as to how your particular switch is operated.

Edited By not done it yet on 12/12/2017 18:41:40

Most pleas on the forum are greeted freely with offers of help - it being mostly in the form of written assistance and some offers of practical help - the emphasis on the 'free' bit. It is partly what the forum is about.

The best suggestion I can offer is for you to use the PM system, should you think a particular poster might be likely to take up your offer. Of course, taking care not to be a nuisance to members.

Some may ignore you, some may politely decline and a minority might complain loudly. Depends on if you only contactvthe once, or more often! Explaining your situation to each might be good, too.

Cup Alloys, Arceuro and amadeal(?sp) all certainly help people on the forum, while not directly pushing their wares. A service, rather than marketing goods, is a little different. Helping someone to achieve a result would be viewed differently to offering ready-made tool holders at below market value, per eg.

Could it be that one phase from the VFD is pure sine wave from the mains, but the other two are raggedy square wave approximations? Possibly due to buying the smallest possible inverter? I reckon one needs about 50% spare capacity in an inverter, particularly a cheap chinese offering.....

Would welding them on be an option?

No (or very little) chance with this fellow. He hates welding because of possible warping. See his previous thread on making a riser block to fit on the machine.