Member postings for MW

whut...

I would also use a much sharper HSS tool than the typical carbide brazed boring bar, they're normally far too blunt for the job.

Michael W

It's funny you should mention a 5 thou hammer in your name, I've known a special engineers hammering technique known as a 2 thou hit. And another hammer known as "the attitude adjuster".

Michael W

Edited By Michael-w on 19/04/2017 15:39:10

No I think it's still destined for the aquarium.

Michael W

I did a class in graphics and design as part of a college course I did, the photoshop software was kind of being seen as too much of a quick fix, the first go-to, at that point in time, it probably still is seen this way.

when really the teacher held firmly to the philosophy that there was nothing you couldn't do in photoshop that could've been done in real life, manual skills, you just have to be much more resourceful about it.

I'm sure it's a lot better than you think it is.

Michael W

I don't doubt that a good number of them have put a price tag way above what mr. reasonable is willing to pay.

But the fact most of the sellers wont even consider listing a shipping option probably has more do with it than cost. The chances of finding someone in the local area who also wants it can be quite slim in some places.

I mean, nobody is going to trek over 100 miles out of their way to pick up that.

I never quite understood what the "Mazak" is supposed to be, it sounds like a made-up material more likely found in the pages of a comic book than a machinery seller. Maybe I can list my lathe to sport genuine Kazam!(t.m) gibs and bearings.

Michael W

Edited By Michael-w on 17/04/2017 13:39:22

Hi, if you're talking about the MGMN 200 parting/grooving inserts then I might've been able to help you, but if not then sorry, i'm empty pockets on this one.

Michael W

Edited By Michael-w on 16/04/2017 15:55:39

I agree it does seem to be a visual exercise rather than a proof of practicality. As you say, the very nature of coating it makes it hard to maintain a decent edge which may be why I've found the cheapest of the cheapo uncoated ones can still cut well. And if it doesn't then I've still got 5 more of the same size!

A lot of carbide tipped tooling also has been ground for a particular purpose on lathe tooling and does not necessarily mean it will work to a good finish on all materials,

I have found that the ones intended for aluminium give a consistently decent finish on plastic whereas the standard ones often intended for steel are blunter and not good for soft materials finish wise, which is why unless I know i'm going to turn hard steels i'd rather use home-ground HSS tools.

As these are both cutting tools for either mill or lathe work, I do wonder if the same argument applies to milling cutters when they are "general purpose".

Michael W

Edited By Michael-w on 16/04/2017 15:01:53

I have bought uncoated HSS cutters from china (No, they were not a "set" ), whilst I expected the quality to be on the minus side they're actually pretty good, and certainly compare to some of the better ones I have. I was able to mill a small section of my table vise away with it in order to make it fit my table.

I do have some blunt M6 taps at the moment, they're almost as bad as just extruding a thread. So I think this might be a good time to make another tracy's purchase.

I did, used to use my machines indoors, but then noise becomes all the more apparent. I have since moved into my own space where i'm unlikely to annoy anybody, I suggest this would be a good idea!

Michael W

Edited By Michael-w on 16/04/2017 13:18:41

Well it is a hardened spindle and It looks like a WM16 spindle nose, and whilst this would suffice to suffer far more stress than an unhardened one without bending, if a force large enough attacks it, it will just go all at once.

I normally don't have any problems getting hold of the warco spares department by their telephone ext. They seem to respond better to this and they do call me if something was out of stock but has come back in.

Michael W

Nothing like a good doing-down on here I suppose.

So we'd rather deplete every natural source and poison the air than look into ways of protecting what we have?

I am by no means an environmentalist, but I think getting negative about real progress in reducing carbon input isn't very helpful.

Michael W

Edited By Michael-w on 16/04/2017 12:34:59

I can't really see what's wrong with it.

If they've found a way to reach the same product but don't have to dump the waste into the air then good for them.

Michael W

I would've thought that with the square collets you aren't able to use or assume that you'll get the same big size range as an ER40 collet would give you with round stock.

Sorry guys, i'm not sure why I said reverse, I think it was something to do with the tool.

But really, forwards, always forwards with a rear toolpost. Anti clockwise direction.

The bar/object spins round past the halfway mark of an anticlockwise rotation and comes up and into, the upside-down cutting face of the tool, in order to cut.

Michael W

Edited By Michael-w on 11/04/2017 13:12:47

And why not I suppose, sounds very plausible.

Michael W

Please forgive my total ignorance on this topic but i'd like to ask,

What advantages does a gun type iron have over a normal iron?

Michael W

No it's okay,

The lathe has to go in reverse because the tool would be presented on the "wrong" side of the lathe. The conventional way has the work piece rotating in an anti clockwise movement down, and into the cutting face of the tool.

Working from behind the lathe, a rear tool post cannot hold a conventionally ground tool because the workpiece would be rotating, still in an anticlockwise movement lets presume, up and into the underside of the tool, not cutting in the way you want it and most certainly rubbing rather than cutting.

It is because of this that the tool has to be placed upside down so that the right cutting face is presented, with the clearance angles all there, to the work piece.

A lot of cheap lathes in the past did not have a reverse function, so the lathe would only spin in an anticlockwise way, so came the rear toolpost, along with it's upside down tools,

this also meant that if the user was canny, they could have two toolposts in play without needing to stop to switch tools for parting off.

The theoretical reason why it is also good for parting off is because the tool is less likely to slip under the work piece, be drawn in and snap either the tool or the work piece, normally the tool. So a rear tool post would encourage the tool to go "up" and away from the work piece rather than the opposite. This tends to happen if the tool is too low on the centre line.

(Very nice tool post/ parting off tool, Tractorman!, Is that two, separate, dovetailed slides on the same cross slide?!)

Michael W

Edited By Michael-w on 11/04/2017 07:12:02

The drill essentially has a spade/chisel tip form, it's the appropriate shape to facilitate cutting, much in the same way that other tools need to come to a sharp point or have the correct clearance angles in order to shift material.

The shape of the spiral flutes is merely to carry away as much swarf as possible without jamming in the hole, they could be straight if they wanted to but they spiral them because this shape allows more room.

You're right about using a bigger drill in a hole nearly as big; they don't cut a perfectly circular hole over another one, in order to do this properly, you need a reamer or a core drill, no i'm not talking about hole saws, these are 4 or more flute drills, which do not come to a sharp point, they are solely designed for opening up a smaller hole, they are quite rare and relatively expensive to buy.

I agree that so long as the pilot is a small hole, this can be rather useful for large diameter holes, However, it would be wise to make sure that you don't cut away the counter sink of the centre drill with your pilot drill, as this is what helps your final size drill to centralise properly as it begins the hole.

An important point for lathe drilling that I have put elsewhere, don't move the tailstock through a hole to attempt to drill a longer hole. Always drill from a single fixed position because otherwise the hole will start to go off centre.

Unfortunately this means you'll need to either change to a longer drill part-way through the drilling cycle or use a boring bar to finish. (if a hole longer than the travel of your quill is what you're looking for)

Michael W

Edited By Michael-w on 10/04/2017 10:49:38

A little musing here but I think years ago you simply accepted that situation was you had no choice but to approach it with nothing but what you can wield in your hand. So you just got on with it.

With the advent of widespread power tool usage, we've realized we can afford to be picky and choose how we want to go about it, and once you lose the habit of using it you find it difficult to get back into it, or even just accepting it in your own head.

I mean, when was the last time anyone cut a keyway onto a shaft, the old fashioned way, by bluing up the shaft, mark it out, cut the vertical lines, then divide it up with short horizontal cuts and chisel out the waste and file it smooth.

Nowadays we're just thinking about what endmill or woodruff cutter we can have at it with.

Michael W

Edited By Michael-w on 09/04/2017 14:51:00

Yeah I agree with that, I was talking about small fixtures that you can hold in the palm of your hand, trying to hold a full bodied chuck inside another would probably be venturing into dangerous territory!

I would say if you find you're making a habit of it, consider making a back plate adapter rather than "piggy-backing" the small one.

Michael W