Member postings for Dave Halford

They have a boiler that leaks like a sieve from joints and another one that leaks from all the fittings and yet another that tests OK for nearly 3 grand but thin gauge and "the fire box has taken a set". Whatever that means

Andy,

Buy which one floats your boat - AND which one you can get still castings and drawings for but be prepared for trouble.

That would be true if m6 thread nuts are used in m8 thread size slots, Bosun is trying to avoid that.

Battleship main guns used 6 x 100lb bags of nitro cellulose propellant LINK the link is interesting

there's stuff on U tube

The beauty of a set can be that all the inserts have to same tool height except the boring bar.

You do have to be very careful which set you get, there's one UK supplier that only sells replacement inserts as sets so you have to buy 6 you don't want to get the one you need and thats £30 for the 7 tips. Whats worse is they have no idea what the tips are.

Personally I tried a cheapy 12mm CCMT 09 set of 4, left ,right, straight and boring bar from the PRC, the 10 pack of tips supplied work but were a bit iffy. The holders are fine, excluding the bar they all have the same centre height so no need to mess with repacking. I also have a JB DCMT tool for times when you need something more pointy.

Used with HSS feeds and speeds alloy CCGT are best for finish on steel even en3 comes out well, just dont take big cuts on steel or the tip will chip.

If it's not too modern there should be a drain plug, otherwise the whole pan is the drain plug and things get much harder.

If you know where the hole is and you can get a set of ramps under the appropriate wheels to clear the pin hole of oil.

Sand the rust off as best you can and use resin core solder. It's possible to tin steel immediately under the iron tip with a 40w iron by rubbing it fairly hard. Small rust pits and the hole can be bridged with extra solder or a small piece of brass.

I would not insert any foreign body into the pan, if a screw punctures the filter or glue gets in there and sets you may need a box rebuild. Also brazing may distort it and give you a leak at the gasket.

Failing all that Petro patch (the fuel tank one) still exists.

Edited By Dave Halford on 18/12/2021 15:23:23

Some tapers are made to the correct taper but different diameters so you can get more or less stick out. I would look for secondhand ones. If a drill chuck wobbles on freshly faced round stock the centres may be offset

Which is how Ady's little would actually work, though I'm sure Paul will already have worked that out.

The smaller you get the bigger the pain they are.

The Minnie boiler mounted water pump probably won't work when it gets hot.

Small air leaks around the smokebox have a big effect, as does the blast nozzle location,

Sometimes they work on air but won't work on steam. If it's not been fired before it sounds like a steam test was not undertaken so don't trust the safeties when you do fire it.

Sometimes, Fenner belts used to have the name moulded with raised letters on the outside of the belt.

Remove an end plate, slide the head out and use a tissue and alcohol to clean the glass.

Did you check that the led lights?

This one from Screwfix also appears in Lidl under the Parkside name for less. Either way the vice needs looking at.

I had a car rottisery mounted on four 1" plain plummer blocks, don't use ball races and make the buffer beam connector arm adjustable and a drilled circular disc to take a tent peg size locking pin.

It's only the price of castings against bar stock.

Yes, this might imply that your head feed dovetail is looser than you thought it was.

Bob,

Think of it as a car body filler, once you add the oxidizer hardener the result is only altered by temperature.

1-part is ordinary acrylic paint and dries mostly by solvent evaporation.

2-part requires the hardener to be added to effect 'drying' and based on isocyanates it's very nasty to breathe.

The etch action is an entirely separate to the drying process

I use CCGT09T304, which are meant to be used for ally on steel, using HSS speeds and feeds.

Push the feed and the tip will go.

Stall it in the job and the tip will go.

So they will all chip equally well if you are clumsy with them

They are no more nor less robust than any other size turning tool unless you include milling cutters which are much tougher. The 04 is the tip radius and means semi finishing, as in gives a decent finish but not as strong as an 08 rougher

Lockable box outside and the old slot filled with a brass door finger push pad either side.

A middle road might be to ebay the lathe and the other large items with their matching tooling.

So the lathe gets all the chucks cutters, holders, steadies etc, so someone new has all the gear to start. Same if there's a mill or even a pillar drill. Use the photos to 'list' whats included.

There's not that many big items sold like this any more and newcomers are more likely to pay a premium if it's all included.

Try to sell any random stuff to those who turn up

I would add

type2 con no base tenon slot for a swift set up to parallel with the table

type3 pro has a base tenon slot for a swift set up to parallel with the table.

I have an 80mm Accu lock vice (same as the versatile) and confess I have used the swivel base once.

Edited By Dave Halford on 27/11/2021 19:02:29