Member postings for Dave Halford

Dividing head

better for gear cutting and cutting splined shafts.

will give you angles assuming your machine is big enough.

Rotary table

Best used flat so good for drilling circle plates

some will mill curves if the gear and worm are up to it and some will strip the threads.

OK for any dividing that does not need a tailstock suport

A heavy duty rotary table would be better something with decent size teeth on the worm and wheel.

I still remember the B&W film of Italians getting in the spaghetti harvest shown by the BBC midlands news.

Always worth reading the Screwfix reviews someone will have found a drawback, in this case a larger drill than normal is required,

The tangs are used to drift out the taper via the slot cut in a drill press. Tailstocks do not have the slot and therefore the tang is deleted

This raises a somewhat off topic issue of motor ratings.

The motor plate will have the hp or Kw output on it and right next door it should have the rating as CONT or INT.

CONT gives you continuous output at that power output all day. INT gives you intermittent power output for something like an hour or less. Then it needs a cool down period like a welder does and so must be run lightly loaded for a while.

Some machines with electric speed controllers will blow the electronics instead when you stray outside the duty cycle. Trouble is it's difficult to tell how hard we are driving our motors.

Same result though. Ouch, my wallet hurts.

Dave.

I have a Centec 2, it can take a 1/4" wide cut through 1/4" steel with a new 4 way slot drill, but I've had the cutter stop and belt slip with a 2" slab cutter taking a full width cut at only 5 thou depth also on steel and at the same speed.

However I wouldn't be about to push a slitting saw too hard due to the lack of set on the blades. I don't fancy blade shrapnel flying if it jams.

Re your speed issue. It's one of the reasons I wouldn't use modern electronic speed controllers, you loose power going slower and I would be afraid of letting the smoke out.

If the taper is good an mt 2 collet will hold, but the drawbar must be tight - this is likely the machine saying my taper is bad.

In other words it's the same fault 

Edited By Dave Halford on 27/02/2018 20:37:46

I can tap a hole on the pi## you just haven't tried hard enough and it doesn't break :O)

I have an ancient plain lathe that had miss-aligned centres, you could watch the drill wobble this was blamed on bed wear.

Then one day I snugged up the tailstock barrel clamp and suddenly everything trued up.

A few thou at the tailstock will be amplified first by the chuck , then the drill.

How much is one of the new ones then?

Edited By Dave Halford on 27/02/2018 10:52:23

My father used Syglas tape, that was stretchy stuff and disgustingly greasy.

It's an 'invitation to buy' no one has to sell for the price as shown, however goodwill etc etc.

The earth didn't move for me

Mostly Sir Frank Whittle so I don't doubt it at all

I've a few.

Most assembly workers wear gloves. There being nothing rotating that she can reach the hair doesn't matter either. If there was she would have been kicked off. That just leaves the fact that it's a woman - so what, there was thousands of them back in the Forties doing way more dangerous jobs than that one. Why should today be any different?

Just make sure you can't crash the scale end stops, it gives you wallet pain.

I've used a UV cure superglue to stick a rear view mirror back on to the car windscreen.

Only worked on a sunny day.

It's an early one with a gear where the output pulley should be and the table has no moving parts left as the power feed has been removed.

Slightly better value than the rusty bucket also on sale now, although that does have an old knackered industrial light attached that you could sell in Liberties for £200 after a quick wax over job.

Both are useless except for parts IMHO.

The Cannon are fibre glass so some of it is fake.