Member postings for Nick Hulme

This is a hazard only observed by those not using correct assembly techniques and tightening torques for ER collets.
The tool and collet bore must be clean and dry.
The outer faces of the collet, the holder taper and the nut must be clean, they can be dry or very lightly lubricated.
The correct torque for the nut size and nut style must be applied, look it up, it's more than you think!

Provide cutting and cutter data to save people guessing what you may or may not be doing.

It's an Industry Standard design, the solution is only to allow it's use by Industry Standard Non-Idiots.
After all, it's well known that if you make something Idiot Proof then God simply makes a Better Idiot! :D

I considered it but what are they going to do, start checking products which they have not bothered to check so far and scrap the rejects or sell them anyway and expect a certain level of returns and for the other users to put up with shoddy products with a "Genuine Myford" sticker on them?
My money is on the latter given the obvious lack of QC/QA which they evidently currently apply, their past behaviour means they don't get an even break or the benefit of the doubt from me.

I bought a 30/12 Fine Feed Tumbler Gear bought from the new Myford Ltd and fitted it to a genuine Nottingham Myford Super 7 with genuine Nottingham Myford change gears and genuine Nottingham Myford idler gears.
I turned the gear manually before engaging drive and found half of it ran fine and half of it was "lumpy", the root between two of the teeth in the "lumpy" section of the 30 tooth gear on this product was 0.58mm shallower than average with the tooth either side causing the idlers to jam solid.
On measuring the teeth I found the tolerances were all over, needing it working this weekend I hand fettled it to run smoothly.
I find it a further disappointment that this part has no rear roller bearing or front brass bush as was the case with genuine Nottingham Myford parts, it should be advertised as a good basis for someone with reasonable bench work skills to fettle into a usable product, as delivered it would have damaged my idler gears if used.

If there isn't space for a dovetail cutter then it may have been done on a horizontal mill, I'll let you imagine the setup but it's not rocket surgery

I may have a jaundiced view of this opinion owing to my Super 7 being a Long Bed model and having a VFD and 1hp 3 phase motor, but using insert tooling I regularly take 10mm reduction cuts on 30mm stainless bar with blue chips flying.
If you need to save money, have short arms & long pockets or have plenty of time to play at a grinder and shimming tools coupled with insufficient work to keep you going until you drop off your log then inserted tooling may not be for you.
If you want to be able to rotate or swap a worn or chipped edge in seconds and carry on with your work then inserted tooling just might be for you, the variety of forms available means that most of what the naysayers trot out on this subject is woefully out of date.

DRO or Digital Scale?
I used digital scales for a while, they're useful but not a patch on a DRO.

If you add what CAD/CAM/Controller you are using people with relevant experience will be able to comment.

There was a lot of chatter in the tool, but it's his video........
I'll get me coat! :D

It's predominantly a case of substituting alternate threads which will work (i.e. not having an over-size major OD which interferes with another aspect of the part) and using a calculator.
Anyone working in metric and unable to machine from an imperial print should find themselves a new gaming machine to play with as that's all they're good for.

Unlikely to slip if used correctly on a good quality tool shank, read up on what bits should be clean and oil-free when fitting the tool and use the correct torque.
Blaming the tools and all that :D

If going the CNC route go straight to Ball Screws, suitably sized ones for your machine will not break the bank.

That's cute, neat and well executed.
Nice job!

I'd just make a mount for a digital gauge on the top slide, measure from a shoulder to a face or face a known length from the shoulder

Ask your supplier.

You can make soft tips for softer materials, try Nylon or Delrin tips.

Water based hasn't yet matched the durability of solvent or polymer based, when it does you'll know, you'll no longer have to clean bird poop off your new car ASAP lest it strip the paint! :D

Use V blocks and a straight edge, works perfectly every time for round PU belting and also for bonding O rings from cord.

I have a Long Bed Super 7 and can take deep, accurate cuts on 30mm OD 304 stainless steel without need for a special tool post.
This leads me to think that the short bed Myford 7 lathes have a level of bed flexibility that require solutions not required for the Long Bed.