Member postings for thaiguzzi

550 quid for new electrics (ignition and charging) sounds quite reasonable in today's world and prices. If you go the Electrix World self generating system, let me know how you get on. This system is fairly new on the market for these bikes and i'm interested in how they fare. I believe originally they came out without the lighting side, aimed primarily at competition bikes not running a battery.

You would not like the price for Joe Hunt Magnetos, mine was over 500 quid, trade, in the mid 90's. But boy, do they spark!!!

I will check that out this salvo. Perhaps that's why the spindle nose protector has tommy bar holes. Never thought of that. Will get back here tomorrow.

I don't use the drawbar for anything else other than tightening or loosening a collet in the adaptor. The adaptor is knocked out using a close fitting brass bar.

I have metric round and imperial round and imperial square collets. Some are 3C, some are 327 (Crawford), and some are no name Chinese/Taiwanese sold via Shars in the States. ALL have the same 26TPI thread and the drawbar threads comfortably in ALL of them.

Sorry, no understand. How does the spindle nose thread protector extract the 3MT adaptor?

Mine is knocked out from the other end.

3C = Crawford 327. One and the same.

Good vice!

I have the exact same vice, now sat on my TS M1 mill. I chopped the front lug off, as it sits better on the table, and its a big old lump for a 4 -4.5" vice. My new jaws were made from stainless (what I had laying about at the time) on the shaper, about 3/8" thick.

Just finished another 3 toolholders in alloy for my Bison clone for my Boxford.

Have 3 original, hardened, ground Bisons.

Have 11 home made, non hardened, non ground steel holders. Work a treat, couple of years of abuse, zero problems.

Have another 5 in alloy, ditto above.

Makes 22 in total.

The last 3, I made a cock up on the machining of the small outer vees, going a few thou too deep, daylight on one side, and a couple of cigarette papers clearance on the other when clamped to the toolpost. ie they are located and clamped only on the two large inner vees. Well, finished them off, and they repeat and they turn and face and bore and do NOT move. Put all my low power, small DOC boring tools in them.

Waste not want not etc...

Not necessarily. NR (natural rubber) and SR (synthetic rubber) are traded on the stock market as commodities. Both prices follow the price of oil. Sort of. And obviously supply and demand. Synthetic rubber is oil based. When the oil price is high, manufacturers will switch to natural if their product allows it and vice versa. Certain applications will always recquire either only one NR or SR or the other. Certain o rings produced are always NR and ditto some are only SR due to heat amongst other things.

On a small average hatchback car, there is not more than 1 kilo of natural rubber per tyre. Competitive racing tyres and commercial aircraft tyres carry a much higher NR percentage in the tyre's make up.

Pop out here. I'll give you a couple of kilos for free.

I have 25 acres of rubber trees being tapped, we just sold @ auction yesterday, cup lump (yes it does pong) at roughly 0.67 pence per kg.

Thank you. Understand.

Parting off or slotting is good fun on a shaper, ie timing downfeed on the Z axis with your hand on the vertical slide...

Super restoration, looks marvelous.

But am I the only one who is the party pooper, who just does not get it?

I'm not at all familiar with CAD, CAM nor CNC, did not do the extra year at college with the above computer stuff, and still have very little interest in it. A DRO is about the limit in my appreciation of the digital age.

Anyhow, I run a shaper, and do more stuff on it than I should, considering there is a vertical mill parked next to it, inc t slots and dovetails. One job before the year is out is a 40T gear.

So, I just don't see the benefit in what Joe has done re the stepper motors et al compared to doing everything manually at the end of each pass or operation. Please explain the advantages.

Regards,

Luddite.

The American Delmar book is by far the most comprehensive out there regarding shapers. In fact it was a machine shop student's course work book for that period of time.

Would'nt bother.

My 8" Boxford has worked hard for years.Oil daily when in use, if all day, oil twice.

They like to drink oil.

5 holders there. Nasty flame cut steel. All angles AND t slot work done on the shaper.

That Sharp mill - horizontal, vertical AND slotting - nice bit of kit.

1978 Boxford 8", well the metric S200 version.

Table extension, large capacity rack vice fitted. 2 pieces of nasty flame cut steel long enough just for full stroke extension. Got 5 Dickson/Bison toolholders out of 1 piece, so you're looking at the start of 10 holders.

Table top extension also allows fixturing of Vertex 6" HV rotab and tailstock centre.

Swarf, 2 very different types.

Bottom pic is roughing out, probably a 0.040- 0.060" DOC.

Top pic is fine finishing with a shear tool, not more than 0.002-3" pic does not do the stunning finish this tool gives.

Ca'nt see from the first photo exactly, but that blue set "may" be butt welded HSS, in which case, persevere with that set.

Basic HSS tool shapes and angles are online in the South Bend "how to run a lathe" book, which are similar to the Boxford owners book, and again the LH Sparey book.