Member postings for Neil Wyatt

That's interesting Lynx runs a lot faster than Kiwi, and gives about 20% more power.

I remember reading an article in an old Aeromodeller..They had a series of props which they had tested against a dynamometer, and used for engine reviews. Some of them were well 'off the line', but it meant they had an rpm/power curve for each test prop that allowed them to easily and accurately test engines. They said teh main error source was differences in prop pitch and detail design.

Neil

I did an experiment today. A bit of 3/4" diameter mooring pin in the chuck. Ground the new HSS to a generous radius, finished side and top of the tool to a polish on the diamond wheel, set in the tangential holder to dead on centre height, proven by a light facing cut.. Up against a hand ground HSS tool off the shelf in it's holder, not bluint but showing signs of use.

Tried facing with both tools, forcing at the same speed. The freshly finished & new HSS chipped with less than 1mm of cut. No stall or jam up to blame. The old HSS took a 1.83mm cut without complaint.

I'll use the new HSS for cheap parallels as at least it seems to be accurately sized!

Neil

I've often wondered about the power of such engines. ETW's Kiwi Mk 1 produced 5/8 BHP from 15cc, I wonder what Kiwi Mk 2 managed?

Matador is similar OHV layout to Kiwi and 0.44 BHP from 10cc is proportionally the same as Kiwi 1 (given the inaccuracies of measurement).

I wonder how they compare to the more modern OHC design of the Nemmet Lynx, also 15cc.

Neil

.. and the results are pretty impressive. Unfortunately a few teeth are badly damaged on one die block, though it may be usable. Loads of markings have appeared A and B on each block and on the diestock, together with 5/16 and other numbers on the die blocks. The tap looks almost like new. Some really heavy rust is loosening, but leaving rough patches, but most of it has just gone leaving dark staining. Another day should see it through.

Then proved that an LBSC end mill from silver steel actually works!

Followed by checking one of the lad's 110V transformer - blown circuit breaker.

Neil

> I think your technique needs investigating before the tool bit is.

Maybe, but I've only ever chipped end mills and parting tools before in fifteen years.

I've been using the tangential tool for about a year now, but I got over-enthusiastic rounding the corner of the old bit of HSS I was using. I'll turn it end for end and put an edge on it and see how it compares.

What was interesting was when I shortened the new HSS. I followed my usual route of grinding a groove all round, putting it in the vice, covering with a rag and popping it with a hammer. Unlike the usual clean break, teh break actually left the groove.

I'm wondering if that was a clue that it's rather more brittle than normal.

Neil

400-800 rpm seems very high for a fly cutter, unless it is a very small radius.

In theory the 108rpm for a 100mm blank in the picture above can be turned on its head - 108 rpm for a fly cutter with radius 100/2=50mm.

I run a ~ 35mm radius fly cutter at about 120rpm.

Neil

A quick look at the cola experiment shows that it is working very well. the half-obscured logo on the diestock is now wholly visible. In a bit I'm going to give everything a good going over with a brass brush.

Neil

Nearly full!

Neil

Hi Mike,

I've heard that the Warco machines come out of a third factory as well.

It's not too hard to untangle the common lathes, it's the zillions of milling machines I can't follow!

Neil

Some years ago, my stepson had a narrowboat with an A-series diesel engine in it. He had oil getting into the water and we spent a very cold (ice on the canal) day changing the head gasket. Horrible job - although it's better access than a car, when you drop a tool you have to fish around in ice-cold oily bilge water to find it

Put it all back together (and it worked!) but the leak was no better, probably worse. Discovered it was a soft-soldered brass oil cooler with cracked joints. Constructed like a small water-tube boiler Took about five minutes to fix it back in the nice warm workshop. Ho hum!

Interesting arrangement, for those unfamiliar with narrowboats, there's no radiator the water circulates through steel 'boxes' built into the sides of the hull..

Neil

If anyone visited these overseas shows and is interested in doing a short write up for MEW with pictures of shop-made tooling on display, please PM or email me.

Neil

HI Steve,

The thread HERE gives the information for my Clarke CL300M, including the measurement and the gear ratio I worked out which gave 1.002" movement per turn in practice.

Neil

Hi Allan,

Shaping up nicely. When using those clamps it pays to have the clamp nuts as close to the 'gripping point' as possible rather than in the middle - don't ask how I know...

Also, try to get the clamps sloping down to the work by about one step of the blocks (I can't see if you've done this or not because of the perspective).

I've got through about a dozen or more different setups with similar clamps in the last few days, and I know the 'heartbreak' if one slips.

Neil.

Last night I started a de-rusting experiment on my finds. I cut the top off a bottle of cheap diet cola and dropped the rusty bits is (after dismantling the diestock and dies with a bit of gently heat and 'sunny jim'. I drank too much of teh cola so i had to top it up 25% with water.

After a day the diestock is looking much nicer already, as its that tap. The other bits of the diestock are looking less improved, so I scraped off the lose rust and changed for a new lot of cola (neat this time). I think it may be that they are at the bottom, of the bottle. Anyway, i'll give them a few days and report back.

The non-dormer drills are excellent; they are split point not 4-facet above about 7mm. Even my weedy drill press managed to drive the 12.5mm drill into a random chunk of mild steel (probably EN3).

The reamers and their taper adaptors turned out just to be grubby, not rusty. Just need sharpening. I must make an MT1 adaptor for my grinder.

And... last night and today i started a really silly little project that I won't reveal unless it works, because if it doesn't... let's just say I declared war on the scrap bin.

Neil

After nearly turning over and going back to bed I decided to go to a bootsale this mrning. Result...

7 brand new Dormer drills from 9.0mm to 13.0mm (some repeats) for £3

A set of very nice looking TiN coated 4-facet metric drills by 0.5mm 2.5mm to 12.5mm (9.0 and 7.0 repeated instead of the 9.5 and 7.5) branded 'Brook UK HSS Co'. for £8

Two used but resharpenable Mt0 1/2" machine reamers both fitted with MT0-MT1 sleeves for £2

A rescuable tap marked HB48256 R.R. Ltd (no size) for £1. Did Rolls Rotyce have individual serial numbers for their taps

A big (15" adjustable diehead with one set of well rusted die bits for £1. Logo is a man standing next to a target.

One other stall had some nice used bits and pieces, but they were a bit pricey ("£3 and up in that box" although three small machine reamers and a tiny adjustable square caught my eye, but i passed on them.

Add in three OS maps for £1 and two dog toys a quid each, I think that was good morning's haul.

Neil

Hey, let's not start a flame war here! Jason and John have both explained their positions. It's reasonable for Jason to comment on the guarding as beginners do copy what they see on this forum and in print. It's also fair comment by John that the poster could have been contacted by PM instead.

The rest of the comments are just distracting us from the point, which is that Roger has done a nice bit of recycling.

Dare I say it, I run a diamond bonded wheel without a guard - it's 95% solid aluminium and is not going to burst explosively. At the other end of the spindle is a grit wheel, in a guard. I also wear safety goggles whenever using it.

Finally, what we do in our own workshops is our own business, but in my previous job I was very struck that the employees who took safety most seriously were the youngest ones. I never had anyone under 30 question the need for risk assessments, fire drills or safety gear - but I did get them reporting near misses and potential hazards.

Neil

FWIW my little study today shows that 1.3% of MEW articles are about safety., published at a rate of about two a year.

I agree John,

I've found that faster spindle and a much heavier 4" chuck compared to the 80mm one makes a difference too - the extra momentum keeps the cut going.

I'm not asking this tool top do anything I didn't ask the previous piece of HSS to do. Methinks it's either brittle or an unsuitable grade of HSS for this task.

It's marked HSS 1/4, nothing else, although the machining is less fine than most HSS I've seen before.

Neil

Just a note on the B10 taper mentioned above.

The B-series are DIN tapers used to mount drill chucks, like Jacob's Tapers.

What few people know is that B10 is the small end of an MT1 taper and B12 is the large end. B16 and B18 are the same for MT2.

This is why I was able to 'rescue' a chuck with a cut-up taper socket using the tip of an MT2 reamer.

More info HERE

Neil

P.S. I have received a draft of a DC motor controller article that will be useful to readers. I hope to publish the final version within a few months.

Edited By Neil Wyatt on 11/04/2014 17:42:29

Ok, one bit of information that won't bias the results is that there is a significant majority of paper subscribers responding to the survey, so I think it will be reasonably representative. Obviously it is users of the forum only. I think the main issue there is that forum members are possibly set up to think more about where they want the magazine to go in the light of recent discussions.

Neil

Hi Jason,

I'm aware of the limitations, but I can separate out print subscribers, so as long as there are a few I can compare their answers with the rest.

If this survey produces some informative results, then I can argue for investing in an unlimited account.

Neil