Member postings for Pero

Interesting!

Will it supersede the forum? In future will we just refer to ChatGPT for the answer to all queries.

Hope not. With the dogs away on holidays it is lonely enough here as it is.

I refer to the ( mathematical ) modeller's maxim: Garbage In - Garbage Out, i.e. .it is only as good as the input information and its ability to filter fact from fiction. In the case of the response to which lathe there is no empirical information presented which would lead to the selection of one over the other. We already have politicians who can provide that sort of response.

Pero

I am a little taller than average at 6'1" and have used a variety of methods to achieve comfortable working heights for my machine tools.

The smaller bench mounted ones are raised either by raising blocks for individual machines or by raising the whole bench by means of adjustable feet.

For my round column mill ( RF31 ) I constructed a sub frame of 4" by 4" treated pine with a height adjustable foot at each corner. Metal inserts are used to ensure there is no squishing of the soft pine. There are no problems with stability with this set up.

My big lathe ( 2 tonne ) has six adjustable anti-noise anti-vibration feet which add about 4" to the overall height, again with no discernible effect on stability. It has an integral cast iron base so the CG is still quite low.

The big mill ( 1.5 tonne ) is mounted on 4 similar feet and has proven stable so far. I am about to raise the head by means of a 6" riser but, hopefully, do not anticipate any great effect on stability. If there is any issue I will extend the footprint by means of a larger rectangle constructed of heavy angle iron with the feet moved to the corners of this sub base.

Having shrunk by about an inch over the last decade, something I anticipate is likely to continue, The advantage of height adjustability to maintain comfortable working height is not to be underestimated. None of my machines are bolted down but all sit on rubber feet which are adequate to keep them in place.

Conclusion. Select the best method for the machine and your desired height. Operating at the wrong height for any length of time is a pain in the neck ( and back ) and can lead into other health problems,

Pero

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I have a 750 model now quite a number of years old ( and hence out of warranty ).

I drilled out the rivets in order to access the insides in order to modify ( physically rearrange ) the input /output wiring ( i. e. physical rather than electrical ). I can confirm that the box contains a surprisingly small Mitsubishi inverter.

On reassembly I replaced the rivets with nutserts and some rather neat round head hex drive screws.

Since there has been no physical change to the content or physical assembly no effect on emc performance would be anticipated. It is also quite easy to access the internal organs should this ever be necessary.

Pero

Don't know about the bars - what about the arms?

Currently moving machines and benches around in my workshop. Would you mind sending him around to my place?

Pero

What on earth is Schlesinger doing using a spirit level? I thought that was verboten!

I find a pair of winding sticks ( as taught by my woodworking instructor many decades ago.) to be much more satisfactory. For our purposes these can be as simple as two good quality rulers.

In use, set one on edge across the lathe bed at each end. Sight along the lathe bed and any twist will become immediately apparent and can be adjusted out. This method is remarkably accurate ( assuming your sight is OK ) and It doesn't matter whether the lathe is sloping end for end or front to back. This technique will still work.

Pero

Hi Simon

I think I must be one of those secret squirrel model engineers that are lurking about in darkest Australia.

I have three phase and VFD on my ML7 ( Newton Tesla ) plus a number of other sets planned for installation on other small machines.

On the ML7 the advantages are very smooth operation and variable speed control ( within reason ).

Why is it less common in Australia? - I think possibly it is due to the cost ( high ) and availability ( low ) of small three phase motors. VFDs on the other hand are reasonably inexpensive ex China and not to expensive to ship. Cost for importing a motor on the other hand can easily exceed the cost of the motor.

Oddly I suspect the motors may be available locally, just very hard to find ( It's a small market . The motor for my ML7 was purchased locally some years ago but whether the firm is still operating or making small motors I am not sure.

I have also contemplated changing my big 3 phase machines to VFD operation for the same reason as with the ML7 - i.e. smother operation and some greater flexibility in control. In these cases the the motor stays the same and the VFD is three phase in and three phase out. Again these VFDs are quite reasonably priced for fairly large motors, 7.5 HP in,my case.

Is it essential - NO. Is it nice to have - YES. Will the machine do the same things as it did before - YES.

Is it worthwhile - QUESTIONABLE. Only the individual can decide.

Pero

Thanks for that Hopper. It's one variable I hadn't considered.

As the owner of taps and dies of various origins - not always identifiable - I am used to checking the finish on die threads. The makers occasionally fail to remove the attached cuttings from the relief holes which can make threading impossible. Having off center or out of alignment dies is something else to put on the checklist.

All in all though, with modern machine tooling taking over in most of our lower priced markets, quality is getting better and better. Where it still seems most prone to failure is where multiple manual processes and assembly are operations are involved ( lathe and mill construction? ).

One thing that does confuse me is why taps generally seem to be made to a higher standard than dies.

Pero

For anyone interested. I have a large number of ML7 gaps for sale. All brand new OEM items. Sales are cash only and payment must be made in three dollar notes, AUD only. Shipping is included but purchaser is responsible for all import fees and duties, where applicable. Due to expected high demand it is anticipated that some orders may not be completed until 1/4/23 so your patience and understanding would be appreciated.

I agree with David on the use of silicone grease. We always used it on the seals of underwater cameras with great success, but there is one proviso. More is definitely not better. A little on the fingers and run the o ring through to just 'wet' the entire surface and then install. Too much and leaks occur. I am not entirely sure why but in the case of underwater use I think it has something to do with the changes in pressure forcing the excess silicone out of the joint leading to voids and very expensive leaks.

Pero

Hi Daedalus

I can't comment on the Chester tools range as I am not familiar with them. I live in Australia.

I assume you already have a big enough shed, noting that the bigger machines do need additional room for installation and for working around, in addition to their footprint. A very solid floor is also a requirement.

I was in a similar position to you some years ago with a similar budget ( corrected for inflation ) and purchased a larger turret mill with an NT40 ( ISO40? ) taper and 5 HP motor ( sort of a Bridgeport on steroids ). It weighs about 1.5 tonnes bare.

Note that BT40 tooling can be converted to NT40 via the use of a suitable adapter. This can be useful with BT tooling becoming much more available and frequently cheaper than the equivalent NT tooling.

I also purchased a 410 by 1000 lathe - 7.5 HP and close to two tonnes bare with the integral cast iron base. Apart from its large mass and stability this lathe has the advantage of a large through bore on the spindle and a gear box that will do an enormous number of threads

Both were Australian sourced and branded ( obviously as I live in Australia ) Chinese machines although critical parts were made in South Korea. I expect similar products would be available in Britain.

Advantages of the bigger machines - you can do more things more easily. Little things in my case are not a problem as I have smaller machines for smaller jobs.

Disadvantages - apart from the space issue mentioned above, 3 phase power is required, costs for tooling and accessories are higher ( much higher for some items ) and everything is much heavier. Lifting equipment will likely be required for changing chucks, lifting rotary tables and vices - if not now then in a few years!

Looking back I am very satisfied with my decision to buy these machines and hope that you will be similarly happy with whatever machines you decide upon.

Pero

Hi Robin

A few comments on the basics.

For your work you will be needing illumination from above not below as would be used in the typical light microscope ( i.e. of the type using glass slides ). For this purpose either a basic binocular dissecting microscope or a usb type digital microscope would suffice. If you want to take photographs the the digital type would be preferable. Trinocular dissecting microscopes, which use a third tube for a camera, are available but are expensive, even if ex China.

The other issue to consider is what is the field of view required. If you are wanting to look at knife or tool edges then you will want a reasonably wide field of view. Similarly for polishing unless you want to get down to very fine ( i.e. micron ) levels of investigation. Again, the dissecting or one of the usb digitals would be preferable for this purpose.

My personal preference would be for a binocular dissecting microscope over the digital but perhaps that just reflects the type of equipment I was trained on. Admittedly all of my current microscopes have high definition digital cameras fitted so I can have the best of both worlds.

I haven't checked the UK situation but I expect that most tertiary institutions are now disposing of older equipment so some bargains may be available. Just check to see that they haven't been dropped too often! A camera adapter tube can be used with one of these to minimise additional cost.

Hope this helps

Pero

3.3 mm drills are reasonably flexible and will take the path of least resistance in a deep hole, i.e. relative to the diameter of the drill. The fact that the bend appears to occur at a specific location suggests that there may be a hard spot in the aluminium ( not an unusual occurrence ) at that point and the drill has deviated either enough to go around it or to the point where it will not bend further and forces its way through.

I suspect that someone will be along shortly to provide a formula for drill diameter, hole depth and flex in a uniform material but I don't think that is what is happening here.

Pero

What seems to being suggested ( I haven't watched the videos ) is that components are being produced in a number of small ( ? ) specialist workshops and then being brought together by Myfords for final assembly and testing.

This, as I understand it, is a similar model to that used by Cowells. I haven't heard too many complaints about Cowells machines and their quality and I certainly have no complaints about mine..

This production method seems to be the model used today in all multi component products ranging from motor cars to aircraft and rockets. The days of everything being done in-house seems to be a thing of the past. A pity in some ways but entirely sensible when you think about it, but quality control is always the overriding determinant.

Pero

I use the conduit system but use a glued conduit end cap at one end for greater security. It is a pain if an unglued end cap ( or cork ) pops off and the whole lot ends up on the floor.

As conduits are available in a wide range of sizes ( for electricity, telecommunications, water and drainage ) and can be cut to any desired length they can be used to store a wide range of materials.

Also, if you glue a cap to each end and then cut the tube in half lengthways they can also be used for open storage (in a suitable rack ) for smaller material such as threaded rod and small section tubing. I have seen this idea described before but I am not quite sure when and where.

Pero

There is nothing that cannot be done with a Land Rover!

On a more serious note, what happens when Joe* amateur mechanic/electrician decides to have a play with the internals and/or add a few unapproved accessories to his electric vehicle?

This came to mind as my Land Rover was the last vehicle with which I have any familiarity with the bits under the bonnet. Later cars go back to the dealers for service. However others are not so cowardly/sensible and it is likely that there will be more fires at home, and perhaps including the home, as a result.

Recent house fires blamed on charging batteries ( I believe small batteries ) may be examples of this but as usual no follow up on the initial sensationalised news story to fill in the details of how, what and why.

Pero

* Not his real name.

The glue used to stick rear vision mirrors onto windscreens may be your savior as it exactly fits your criterion of plastic onto glass. The only possible hiccup is the type of plastic in your 3D prints and whether the glue is compatible.

Pero

Presumably that's how the Chinese made the 1 mm stainless steel nuts I purchased a while ago. Hope they don't lose too many on the factory floor!

While these videos are fun I doubt they are in any way representative of current manufacturing processes for the larger domestic and export markets in either India or China.

In this case they are likely using European machinery pensioned off some years ago when productivity fell too low and labour costs became too high. The problem is that even though wages are increasing in China and modern manufacturing process with lower workforce requirements are taking over, these industries are not returning to the western world even though we should now be competitive. Why is it so?

Pero

Alec

Are you able to locate the lathe on mobile bench and shift it out of the way when not being used? This may open up your options a little, and also save your back if you are having to move the lathe on a regular basis.

In my case I have found that even the Sieg C0 and Cowells ME90 are getting quite heavy for frequent moves in recent times ( perhaps I am just getting old ) and are now in search of more permanent homes.

I have moved solo a Myford ML7 and Sieg C3 but it is definitely not something I would attempt on a frequent basis and definitely not if it was to be placed on a shelf under a bench - possibly the ergonomically worst location as the lifting positions just cannot be managed safely.

I have no experience with the other lathes mentioned so cannot comment on those. Best of luck with the search.

Pero

I note that the tool linked by Juddy is shown as "sold out" however I have purchased the same thing ( i.e. visually the same ) via Aliexpress for not a lot of money. They also sell clones of the older Dremel 395 for even less money. At one time these were sold as genuine Dremel which I think they probably were.

On the lasting power of Dremels, my go to machine is more than 4 decades old and features the original bronze bearings with felt wick oilers. The only issue I had with this machine is that the hole for the back bearing oiler was originally covered by a factory label. Fortunately this was found and opened up for oiling before any damage was done. A drop or two of 3 in 1 oil before each days use and away it goes ( at its one and only speed ). However these machines are only designed for light work and wont sustain heavy loads for any length of time.

The bigger machine ( as per Juddy's link ) is much more capable but gets heavy in the hand fairly quickly.

Pero

Michael

As you surmise the corrosion product is aluminium oxide. The problem arises because the volume of aluminium oxide exceeds the original volume of aluminium which effectively locks the stainless steel into the thread ( or even through holes ).

When assembling, when I remember or when I am not in a hurry, I grease all contact surfaces with teflon grease. Fishing reel grease may be a suitable alternative as it is designed for the same conditions.

I haven't tried the usual copper grease as copper and aluminium are not known to play well together.

Incidentally, for anyone who plays in the marine environment stainless steel and forged steel ( as in the average quality chain or shackle ) do not make good bedfellows. When permanently submerged a steel shackle can corrode out in about a month, depending on size, when attached to a stainless fitting.

A good rule, often not achievable when dealing with fixings into aluminium castings, is to stick with the same metal throughout.

In the case of fixings into aluminium you could try titanium screws which are less reactive.

I have not found anything that will selectively dissolve the aluminium oxide without attacking the surrounding aluminium but would be very interested if anyone has the answer.

Pero