Member postings for Cabinet Enforcer

My building society lets you pick from a list of registered numbers for two factor each time it is needed, so I can use the landline when at home. Which is just one of the reasons I barely use the bank I am also a customer of, as they insist on using a text message system.

The "best" speed is due to the relationship between the mechanical properties of the material (shear and yield strength, Youngs modulus, etc) and the mechanism of chip formation, also often limited by the properties of the cutting tool.

Practically speaking, it because that that is the speed that "works".

Bergen seem to have been entirely subsumed into US.pro for the moment, the US.pro mini spanners are the same dreadful ones sold by many others, at least they sell them cheap...

A man of fine taste regarding the the ratchets I see, before the last branding shuffle the better Britool stuff was marketed under "Britool England" and included the clutch ratchets, you can see from my 1/4 drive one here that they probably came out of the same factory as the bergen ones.

I can't even begin to imagine the state of the NHS if it were run at the level of parsinomy extolled by the average hobby engineer

It may not be magic but a suitably accurate flank drive ring spanner can, as well as being better for peak torque, reduce bruising of flats in those more aestheticly challenging situations. As Tim Pointed out in his OP, and I agree, you can't get cheap decent small spanners, they are all crap.

Anyone suggesting Britool should be aware that they have been nothing but a branding exercise for quite a while now, and should be treated with appropriate caution.

Also the correct answer to any sunglasses question is invariably Serengeti, I'd pick non-polarised glass lenses in the original drivers tint.

You have to laugh at the snap-on pricing, when you hear of some poor dealership mechanic lamenting about how he had ten grands worth of snap-on tools nicked, I always wonder who is it that nicks half a socket set?

Also thanks to Barrie (and others) for putting those Stahwile 16 spanners on my radar, another expensive addition to my "want" list, thanks a bunch

Edited By Cabinet Enforcer on 30/07/2020 19:26:00

Hi Dr_GMJN, I was sure your username rung a bell when you started posting but I couldn't place it, didn't realise it was from PH until I saw the Stuart build thread pop up in recent posts there.

Nice engine build so far, hopefully she'll run like a chipped 330D .

Re your post on the previous page about indexing, would highly recommend getting both hex and square Stevenson collet blocks from Arceuro, makes jobs like that really easy.

I think an important corollary to Neil's post is that just because someone gives you a real sounding name and mentions their locality, it does not mean any of it is true.

Hi Luke, do you mean 12mm of thread on the bolt, or do you mean 12mm of thread engagement?

If you mean thread engagement, then you are in over your head, and you should probably start from the beginning to explain.

If you mean 12mm of thread on the bolt, then you are in waaay over your head, and definitely need to start from the beginning.

The fact that you have sought help on this shows you feel it is important, and I am sure people here will be willing to help, there are potentially very straightforward answers to your question, but without context it is impossible to know.

Somehow this very useful thread has dropped off the radar, so I thought I would bump it with a little snippet of useful info.

I have been having terrible trouble with chatter on my wm280, and have chased the problem around quite a bit with nothing making much difference at all to a quite obvious problem. In the end it was as simple as the bolt holding the cross slide nut had come loose (doh!).

I did however learn a couple of things while messing about:

1. My Dickson QCTP was sleeved onto the original (M8 I think) toolpost stud, machining the topslide for a much larger (14mm) stud which fits properly has made a huge difference to the feel and usability of the QCTP, I highly recommend it.
   
2. The bearings were extremely tight on the spindle, explaining why adjustment never seemed to make any difference, despite being in slightly ropey condition the bearings were actually working fine as the timkens that went in to replace made zero difference.
   
3. Tailstock problems, when I bought the lathe (2nd hand) the tailstock was tight in spots, a stripdown and rebuild partly fixed it, and a bit of judicious bending seemed to get it to a tolerable state, I assumed the screw had a slight bend and forgot about it. Fast forward to my above bearing install and I inadvisedly used the tailstock to ease the bearing race in, the tight spots returned with a vengence, fearing the worst I stripped it down for a proper examination.
   
   The rear keep plate, which I quickly realised was transferring the full force on the spindle into the body, was only held in with very short (circa 5mm) cap head screws, and the threads holding one of them in were stripped (when using brute force and ignorance I do like to use plenty of the brute force). The tailstock body is drilled and tapped for much longer screws, so after fettling the interface I popped in some longer cap heads and the tailstock now works more smoothly than at any other time in my ownership.

The odd thing is that I have stripped the tailstock down at least twice, including to install needle roller thrust bearings, and completely failed to recognise that the teensy little bolts would be a problem .

Nozzles from E3D are low profile, if they are too spendy for you then trianglelab on AliExpress sell nozzles made to match E3Ds published drawings.

As for sizing, if they print OK then they cannot be too far out, try measuring a known good nozzle?

Correcting myself here, the index said p62, and when checking the online copy I found it at p20, could I heck find it in the printed copy earlier this month, but looking now it seems to have snuck in there

Colour me confused Neil, but the reprint is of the advanced rest not the basic one?

While I'm on, what happened to the simplicity jig supposed to be on p63, will in be in 295?

Some time ago there was a move in the Insurance industry to try to bin this stupid policy, it almost held but ended up being discretionary, the ABI has a document on the matter, the vast majority of major insurers do adhere to it.

**LINK**

However the devious slimebags in the Insurance sector will still try and say that changing the wheels is a matter you need to inform them about (so they can charge you a fee). So you still have to bloody check and the above commitment is now largely worthless.

Yes, even the filthy cheap ba****od ones I have work fine in that type of grooving holder, as long as you dont try anything too big.

I recently smashed a couple of inserts and fatally wounded the holder, in exactly the same way as in the video above. Mainly because I was testing to try and find where the horrific banshee wail and chatter was coming from on my WM280, I think I may post a thread about that...

Suffice to say that if it isn't cutting right and you press on regardless then they do break just like that

Apolgies for the selective quote Clive; I wasn't really reffering specifically to the EU approach to lifting equipment, which would prevent toolpost mounting like this for a number of technical (and pretty valid imo) reasons. It was more the latter point you made, it was a couple of hundred years ago when British judges started to decide that employees are "allowed to be stupid" for want of a better phrase, most Europeans seem to be more inclined to the American approach of personal responsibilty than we are in the UK, I think maybe this is down to the breadth and depth of our industrial heritage.

My thoughts are that it would be impossible to sell this product in Europe (including here), it is clearly intended for regular installation, it's safety relies on the operator correctly comissioning it on every occasion it's installed (assuming it's properly engineered in the first place), and our system of law has frowned on that sort of thing for a very long time.

I think it probably highlights one of the biggest differences in culture between us and the yanks, everyone is responsible for their own safety over there, this attitude tends to engender solutions which protect an individual rather than protecting all.

I was going to post that link when I saw your post, but found AdrianR had already put it in, it isn't the first place I have seen the technique mentioned but Stefan manages to put great clarity into his vids.

The reference to 20mm means "20mm nominal" that is to say it is clearly not 19mm or 21mm stock, niether is it some fractional inch size of stock, the only possibility is that it is 20mm stock that is within tolerance. Stefan definately didn't mean that 19.99mm is actually 20mm, 10 microns is like the Grand Canyon on his channel

Edited By Cabinet Enforcer on 26/05/2020 14:13:21

Seeing as there are only 2 sizes of Versatile SG vice listed, the 6" is going to overhang by about 8", I think this makes it a bit big for your table, however the work envelope of the 4" seems a touch on the small side.

I have an RF45 type mill, so same depth table, and rather liked the adaptability of the versatile SG and seriously considered one, I ended up with the 120mm type 2 precision, it still has the multi position usability and has a good wide opening, though loses the multi position jaws. I have not regretted my decision, the width, jaw depth and clamping capacity all seem to be in the Goldilocks zone for my machine and use.

One option I have seen used is to consider having two identical vices, depending on what you make this can be very handy and means slightly smaller ones can be considered.

Mills have a spindle, this can hold a variety of things, one of which is a drill chuck. There are many types of tool, and many ways to hold them in a mill, typically suppliers/manufacturers expect that you will buy the items that will suit your requirements, rather than throw in the box stuff most customers will never use. The cheap drill chuck is the one thing many do throw in.

Your budget is very small, to avoid disappointment you should spend time working out your needs and expectations, and finding a machine that matches those. Then you figure out how to achieve that with your budget.

Gerry, you may find that adding more localised mass isn't particularly effective with sheet metal, the best construction is to sandwich a dampening material between two sheets, though you may well find that dampening material on its own is adequate for your needs.

The mastic used for sticking car body kits on, such as sikaflex, spread over a panel at 1-2mm thickness is a low cost and resilient method of reducing sheet metal noise.