Member postings for KEITH BEAUMONT

Jason, They say you can learn something new every day- Your referance to the sparking plug thread being UNEFis the first time I have seen that advised. All the Drawings and notes of engines I have made have just said I/4 X 32,so ME hasbeen the one used with no problems. Perhaps I have not read the right paper?

Keith

Well; Tug I can make your day! A few years ago, when I was test running the Sparey 5cc Diesel, I had just such an accurance. Engine back fired on start up, Prop spun off, but engine continued to run without the prop,but clockwise. I stopped it by shutting the needlle valve. I had not heard of such a possibility and like you have no knowledge of anyone else having it happen.

The Boll-Aero 1.8 drawings have no problems. I made the crankshaft to accept the collet /driver/

Keith

That is i super set of models ,Tug, but think of all the dusting and space! Nothing wrong in having a change. I mostly gave up woodwork projects when I was 80,to return to making model I/C engines. I am in my 91st year and am frustrated at the moment because the workshop is banned, due to me having a Cataract removed ,last Friday.

Keith

Jason, you are amazing! You away have a perfect example to back up your wisdom

+Keith

When I was playing with my Chenery Vee -Twin, i too noticed that the right hand cylinder, from the front, was running quite cooler than the left cylinder. After bringing the fact up on this forum,expert opinion said that it is due to the oil being thrown more into the left cylinder by its anti clockwise rotation and that Harley Davidson were known to have the same problem. At that point I stopped being concerned about it.

Keith

Super piece of work Rod. I had similar running problems with my Chenery Vee- Twin and made several differant size intakes before I got the engine to have good slow tick over and transition to fast running.

Keith

Hi Geoff,

Thanks for your comments. With my version of the 1.8cc I did change the shape of things from Chris's design. It is the black one in my album. I am tempted to make another, but stick to the drawing this time.

Keith.

I think over the years, attempts have been made to use oils other than Castor, because of it being a nuisence to clean off a flying model. Its ability to be the best lubricant for model diesel engines is not disputed, plus we are all hooked on the smell of the exhaust !

Thanks all for your comments. It is much appreciated.

Keith.

Well spotted Noel !! I When I realised the date I could not resist seeing if anyone would notice an April 1st joke.

Keith

I have recently completed making this engine.The Boll-Aero 7.5cc Diesel.It is he last of Chris Boll's excellent bar stock designs and has two ball races to the crankshaft. I have now made  all five of them. As drawn,this one is very square looking,with the cooling fins continuing straight up from the crankcase. I did not like the idea of interupted cutting of the fins,or of making a square piston, so changed the profile to a more conventional circular shape. On the test rig it proved to be a reasonable starter,once I had found the correct compressioin point. The photo of it running shows it doing just under 9000 RPM, with a 11" x 4" APC nylon propeller, using Model Technics 1000 fuel. No gaskets, no leaks,no black oil, so all parts must be in the correct place! Multi runs of 4 minutes with cool down between each, it has now had 32 minutes running time. It has that lovely "crackle"to its sound and is quite thirsty, with 100cc of fuel lasting 4 minutes. The recommended method of running in a Diesel engine by a series of high speed, rich runs,with cool down between each, I find really works and I am always amazed how compression increases by doing so.

Subsequently, I have moved the engine to my static thrust rig and changed the fuel to Model Technics 2000 grade. With RPM at 9300 RPM I got 41.8 oz of static thrust. To try and avoid Castor oil spray going everywhere, I rigged an old umbrella behind the set up to try and restrict it, but at these revs it turned inside out straight away! Later use of two 4ftx 2ft x 1/2inch ply boards hinged together as a screen to catch the exhaust flow is working fine.

I have now made 10 I/C engines consecutively, plus restoring as many clapped out Classics back to life. Not quite the output of"Engiineous" Jason, but he is a lot younger than me and more clever.

Edited By KEITH BEAUMONT on 01/04/2023 09:37:40

Edited By JasonB on 01/04/2023 13:06:54

I have made similar form tools by using silver steel,driling a hole at an angle,to give the wanted radius Grind away to leave half of the drilled hole , harden.Usualy works quite well.

Keith

I am really sorry to hear of this,Ramon. Your work has inspired many of us for some years and so far as I am concerened, your standard is something to strive for.. I am more than ten years in front of you and find making I/C engines the mental stimulous we need to stop turning into a cabbage and hope you re-consider your decision.

Keith

I have just come across this post and thought I would add an experience I had with Big Ben a long time ago. In the summer of 1957 I was visiting Westminster Abbey with my girl friend and got mixed in with a viisting group from a Horological Society. Their next place for them to see was Big Ben and as 3 members of their group had not turned up, invited us both to join them. When we were up the top, being lectured by the guide, he made a big point about the pennies on the pendulam being used to adjust for time. If my memory is correct ,there were 4 of them, just laying on the top about 12 inches from the edge. This information caused raised eybrows and some smiles among the group and afterwards they were unaminmous in saying that it was a good story, but total rubbish and was probably thought up by a previous guide, years before,to impress the tourists. I can remember being impressed with how crude the works were.being more Blacksmith than precision Engineering. The pedulam looked like a raw casting with a couple of lumps of iron bolted to the top, presumably to add to the weight. We were up ther when it struck 2 oclock. we were advised to put our hands over our ears, but I had toohache for the rest of the day!

The other modification I made to the design was to make long nuts for the head holding down bolts, As drawn ,you cannot get to them for re-tightening after the valve brackets are put on and making them longer to be above the valve brackets allows re-tightening when engine is hot.

Keith.

I had no problem with uneven running, once I had increased the compression to work on glow plugs. I did not make the Chenery designed manifold and made a tee shaped one . I tried various carbs trying to get max revs together with a decent slow running, with good transition between, but ended up with the original single one that I had in my bits, not the Chenery design.The trick was to get the size of the inlet correct and I made several before I was satisfied. . I did not have pressure lubrication, just 5cc of oil in the crankcase and drained after each running session.The breather was replaced from its drawn position,as it made a mess over the crankcase, I replaced this with a plain 3mmm pipe in the rear face ,which allows oil fume to pass over the camshaft. If you use sparks you might not be able to do this.

Keith.

It looks like the consensus is that the Motor was the problem, Would the hiatus created when it finally cleared what ever it was, be responsible for knocking out the PWM Control?

Thans again for all your expert help

Keith.

Joseph,

No Part No, But Google -DC 6-60V 12V 24V 36V 48V 30A PWM DC MOTOR SPEED CONTROLER (PWM) and you get loads of the same item from different suppliers. The sounds could have come from the motor,as they are adjacent, but my impression was it came from PS

The Motor was the first part to arrive and I did connect it to a car battery to check its direction of rotation, but did not try to stall it as it had a ribbed pulley on it.

I appreciate all these opinions from you all.

Keith

Dave, I checked,re-checked and even got a pal to check all terminals,so I do not think the problem was a loose connection.

Robert, The motor sounds like it might be the cause as it was the only part not changed, but would a brush problem not show itself when run at max revs.? There is absolutely no play in the motor spindle. The question still remains that previous stalling did not remove any problem at the brushes. Also ,what were the sounds from the Power Supply when I hand stalled it? Thinking about it, The duration of stall by hand was probably a fraction longer than winding the tool back when it stalled. Could that be an influence ?

What is the sequence of events after power on, max revs and then takeing a cut ?

Keith

A few years ago I inherited a Unimat 3 lathe and Mill, with one motor between them.I have,on occasion,looked for another motor so that I can sell the Mill as a workable machine. The recent postings by Grayham Meek, of his refurbish and fitment of a DC Electric scooter motor to his Unimat 3 lathe, inspired me to do the same and I contacted Gray for information on parts used. The three main parts are a 12 volt DC 150Watt Brushed motor. A DC 6-60 Volt PWM Speed Control and a 12 volt 30 amp DC 360 Watt Power Supply.. All available from many places on Amazon. I have copied Grays cabinet mounting to accomodate these parts. When all wired up I was very disapointed in its performance. Whatever pulley combination, or speed selected the motor stalled at the slightest cut. An exchange of mail with Gray confirmed that he was able to take impressive cuts with his set up.. I then returned the Power Supply for replacement and received another promptly. When this was wired in and tested,I got the same result,stalling the motor at the slightest load. This time I thought the problem had to be the Speed Control, so ordered another. This was wired in and made no change at all,still stalling the motor at the slightest load. At this point I wondered if the Motor was the problem, so I removed all belts, put on a heavy leather glove and tried to stop the motor by hand. I found I could stop it using just finger and thumb! I did this several times, then I heard soome sounds coming from the Power Supply and the power kicked in,such that I could not even slow it by hand. Wonderful, I thought , I have Power. I then found that the Speed Control was not working. The LED figures were lit but all zeros. No on/off or speed control. Now very frustrated I packed up and made a cup of coffee. I then decided to replace the dead Speed Control with the previous item I thought was faulty. When this was wired in I found everything was now working the same as Grays. I have spent an hour making various test cuts and am impressed with its performance.

We now come to the reason for this post. I would like an explanation from the experts in electronics why, when I had stalled the motor so many times by trial cutting, did it not detect the load in an instant with the same increase in power on all my previous set ups? What was different with my stopping the motor by hand? Also, why did it knock out the Speed Control when it did detect a load? My understanding of PWM is that changes are made in real time. Grahams set up worked straight out of the box. Answers in simple Englisfh please.

It is my understanding that payment for articles comes from the Advertising budget. It is obvious that people who took multi page adverts in the past, - Euro, Warco, Axminster, no longer do so and it looks like Home and Workshop machinery,have also stopped. This causes the re-use of previously published work. If you submit an article ,it can take more than a year to appear, so ther cannot be a shortage of articles in the pipeline.

Keith