Member postings for FMES

Hi Bob, Carbon Monoxide is usually the result of incomplete combustion of any hydrocarbon and yes that does include household gas.

It is a totally odour free undetectable gas which will kill you before you are even aware of it, so the installation of a detector is highly recommended.

Normally it would alert you to a faulty boiler flue or blocked chimney.

Regards

Lofty

**LINK**

I'm so sorry that you feel I'm being critical John S., far from it. I was just making the point that while all you guys were enjoying the show we were not able to.

I try and do most of the shows, work and commitments permitting, but just couldn't manage this one which is a shame.

As for

'4 out of these 5 are in the south so I feel it's very unfair that he criticises anyone in the North for having the balls to host one show ?

Where did you get that from?

Well, its been there since 1994 Nick, we were going to Stoneleigh in the early eighties.

Pretty sure I have a communication somewhere from the Southern Federation telling us about the demise of the Stoneleigh venue with a recommendation for the Harrogate one.

Ok Neil, got you the first time

I don't think it was as good as the Harrogate show though.

May have changed.

Not a spar at all Brian, it just means that we personally are not able to easily travel that distance, as are many other members of Southern clubs.

The Stoneleigh show was the best for us, the London one mainly seemed to concentrate less on live steam and more on model aircraft et al and was much more crowded.

It really is unfortunate that since the relocation of the show some years ago, it's not viable to travel with the associated rail costs and overnight accommodation.

Stoneleigh was relatively accessible after a 2 and a half hour drive from the south coast and we used to attend every year.

I can't remember why the venue was altered, but it was mooted that previous venue was too far south for more northern visitors to attend.

Or you could wear thick rubber gloves while using it.!

Seriously though most older stuff will sail through a pat test if properly maintained, the only thing thay will need replacing is what looks like rubber cable.

Hi Rainbows,

A lot of American tooling is 110 volt and will need a transformer in order to be used on UK supplies.

What is worrying is the presence of a 13amp plug being fitted, giving suspicion that it has been used on a 240v system.

It would be prudent to have it tested properly before use as it is obviously getting on in years.

How about checking it properly rather than by eye?

The eye can see light through a virtually immeasureable gap so it would be better to get a between centers parallel and check it with a DTI over a set distance.

Might not be out as much as you think.

3.658 = No27

Edited By Lofty76 on 24/04/2015 21:43:36

Julian, may I recommend purchasing a set of Zeus tables **LINK**

You'll never regret it.

Depends on the actual size of the mild steel bar.

If it is 4mm then a drilling of 3.8/3.9 mm will give you a press fit without reaming. but check what size your drills are actually producing - most drill slightly oversize.

We normally drill 3.8mm for a 4mm reamer to H7 clearance on 4mm ground mild steel.

Cured that easily Neil, no problem with long runs.

I reckon it would be ok on a smaller blade, having said that I made a very useful topslide grinder for my lathe using a similar motor.

The the only thing I found I had to do was add a cooling fan as the motor was not meant for continuous use.

It runs quite happily for an hour or more now spinning a 8 x 1/4 white wheel, shown here grinding the main bearing jiournals for the R & B.

Personally, as these are only cosmetic radii, I would have extended the straight lines to a point and then used a correct sized piece of rod/tubing to draw round after lining up with the straight lines.

Its easier to do than describe.

Actually in this instance it's academic as any test would be purely for the confidence of the user.

That's exactly how it is done Steve, but I wouldn't want to try and apply the content of PSSR 2000 to it **LINK** but a simple hydraulic test to prove the integrity of the pressure vessel would be prudent.

If its not a home made unit it should have an original set of test markings on the tank somewhere, usually near the outlet (but not allways) which will give you the required test pressures normally 1.5 times working pressure.

Just remember it was on the scrap pile for a reason, you need to find out what that reason was.

All the best

Lofty

I've used ordinary electrical flux cored solder to good effect on brass tanks and tenders.

I haven't tried mixing with detergent as I would have thought there would be a small amount of burnt residue to contaminate the joint.

What I HAVE tried is mixing a few drops of methylated sprit to the flux which I find helps cut any residual oil/grease (fingerprints etc) .

Lofty