Philip Hardy | 18/09/2014 12:02:06 |
21 forum posts 2 photos | It's said there are no stupid questions so,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, I've just bought a Myford ML7 lathe circa 1950 and intend to start my modelling career as I approach my pensional age and beyond. My question is: How do I opearate the mache? I have a 3 position pin type lever on the left hand side and a 2 position pin type lever tp the right of it. I think the 2 position one locks the chuck? The 3 position one I have no idea. Thanks, Phil.
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Robbo | 18/09/2014 21:38:45 |
1504 forum posts 142 photos | Phil, Your left hand 3 position lever is to engage drive through the gear train to the leadscrew - that long screw along the front of the lathe - which provides drive to the lathe saddle via the half-nuts, which are operated by a lever on the left end of the apron. Three positions are forward, neutral, reverse. The right hand lever engages/ disengages the backgear to provide lower speeds, but the bull wheel - the big gearwheel at the right end of the headstock when you open the cover - MUST be disengaged before engaging the backgear. There is a socket cap screw on the front side which when loosened can be moved upwards to disengage a segment of the gear. Operate the backgear without disengaging this and you will cause great buggeration! Would suggest you buy an operating handbook, usually some on ebay. Or Ian Bradley's book The Myford ML7 Lathe Manual, available everywhere. Phil |
Philip Hardy | 18/09/2014 21:51:02 |
21 forum posts 2 photos | Thanks Phil, I'll take a look tomorrow when I get home for the bull wheel socket cap screw although I can't remember seeing one? Many thanks, Phil.
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_Paul_ | 18/09/2014 22:39:19 |
![]() 543 forum posts 31 photos | Here is a good explanation of ML7 backgear operation: swarfer.co.za/lathe/backgear And a pdf manual Myford ML7 Paul
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Robbo | 18/09/2014 23:12:31 |
1504 forum posts 142 photos | Phil, Have just checked on the location of the ML7 manual in pdf form, but I find Paul has beaten me to it. |
Philip Hardy | 19/09/2014 09:08:07 |
21 forum posts 2 photos | Wow, thanks guys for all this info. I'll take a looki tonight. So how should I run the lathe, or put another way, which is the faster spindle speed? Sorry to sound thick but I've always thought it's better to ask than guess and cause damage. Cheers, Phil.
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Les Jones 1 | 19/09/2014 09:59:38 |
2292 forum posts 159 photos | Hi Phil, Les. |
Philip Hardy | 19/09/2014 10:01:58 |
21 forum posts 2 photos | Thanks Les, That makes sense. Regards, Phil. |
Ian S C | 19/09/2014 11:38:49 |
![]() 7468 forum posts 230 photos | Philip, start slow, and move to a higher speed if you find it sounds comfortable, If you start off at top speed you have a good chance of knocking the edge off the tool specially if it's HSS, carbide won't object to the speed so much. Ian S C |
Philip Hardy | 20/09/2014 12:45:03 |
21 forum posts 2 photos | OK, found the cap screw, any idea what size it is as Ican't get to it without shortening a cap wrench? I've noticed the wedge is connected to the gear so should I run the lathe with it connected or disconnected as I don't think I'll need the slow speeds at the moment? Thanks again for all your help. Cheers, Phil.
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Michael Gilligan | 20/09/2014 14:09:20 |
![]() 23121 forum posts 1360 photos | Edit: Text removed, as superfluous [already covered earlier in this thread] MichaelG.
Edited By Michael Gilligan on 20/09/2014 14:12:25 |
Robbo | 20/09/2014 14:18:15 |
1504 forum posts 142 photos | Phil, The size key you need is 5/32", Imperial of course. You will need to grind most of the short leg of it off, leaving about 1/8" before the bend - just enough to fit into the depth of the socket head. If you only want to use the higher speed range, leave the wedge connected and change the belt position on the pulleys to change speed. Your right hand lever on the headstock MUST be in the lower position when the wedge is connected. Phil (another one) |
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