Myford Fixd Steady (1412)

When using a Myford fixed steady (1412) on my ML7R , I find it very inconvenient to keep tapping the lower supports to centralize the metal, has anyone made adjustable threaded ones to replace the solid lower supports ? any advice would be appreciated. Thankyou.

Kenneth, when i set up the fixed steady I put the job in the chuck and set the fixed steady right up against the chuck jaws and adjust the sliding jaws at that position. Once the jaws are locked in position I then set the fixed steady up in its working position. Generally i find it works quite well.

There will be other ways of doing it as forum members post their methods.

Clive

Kenneth

In addition, ensure the work has been turned concentric to center where the fixed steady jaws will come to bear and keep the jaws well oiled where they contact the work.

Bill

Kenneth,

By some serendipitous coincidence, I happened upon this Myford Patent a few days ago.

You may find it interesting.

MichaelG.

You may find Kenneth my web pages on using fixed and travelling steadies useful. This can be found here

Incidentally, if you need to support a part quite close to the chuck then a three jaw chuck is unlikely to be accurate enough. This, especially at larger diameters and in particular if the reverse jaws have to be used. My web pages cover this and many other aspects of using steadies. The reason for this is that the workpiece is likely to walk out of the chuck jaws, and quite quickly if the error is too large.

Also, unless the workpiece is supported by the tailstock centre, then Clive's method is essential in my opinion.

Harold

Thank you Michael , I think that this is the answer to my problem, also thanks to all the other friends thoughts

Ken..

That patent idea looks very fiddly. How about the mini-lathe style that uses a threaded adjuster through the end of the steady finger and screwing into a hole in the finger fixing bolt? The fingers have slots for the fixing bolts. They are very easy to adjust

Neil

P.S. simple mod for owners - saw or file off the front corners in the gap, then you can fit larger stock without threading on from the end and it won't compromise the strength of the steady casting.

That looks exactly like the the (minilathe) steady that I modified to fit my ML7. I didn't think of opening the gap as you suggested though, Neil. Thanks for that.