Making V-Blocks

I am on making V-blocks the block is 55x65x140L I will cut into two.
I have already marked out everything drilled at the bottom of both V's and milled out the clamp slots on the sides. The ML7 vertical mill is a great attachment as are my hold down clamps.

I am cutting two V's one large one small. Large will be approx 1" deep, small approx 1/2 deep.

My dill-ema is in doing the V's.

In all my web searches on making V-blocks each one I find has either another set of V-blocks to set the angles with for milling or an inclination/angled vice.

To do this without using the above I have so far come up with.

1 Hand cut rough the V then mill on the ML7 to finish

2 Use the 4x6 BS in vertical mode again rough cut and mill

I still need a way to mount and clamp the block on the lathe to mill it.

Any suggestions

.

Raymond,

I have "bulleted" what I see as your key points ... the first and third are fine, but I'm struggling with the second and [therefore] the fourth.

• Do you have a photo of the "ML7 vertical mill" attachment?
• Does it use the Myford cross-slide as the work table?

I'm assuming that it's something like the Rodney or Amolco attachments, which don't have a tilting head ...

MichaelG.

It's too big to angle the vertical slide and move the block up and down.

Get a bit of hefty steel angle, it won't be accurate but that doesn't matter. Turn it upside down and clamp the block blank to one of the faces. Set it on a flat surface, and file away/scrape one edge of the angle until the block is truly at 45 degrees. Now clamp the whole assembly in place on cross slide.

Geometer suggested making 'emergency' v-blocks from angle iron welded to bars underneath, and trued up.

Neil

.

Neil,

Interesting to see that we interpreted Raymond's "vertical mill attachment" differently.

Obviously, I don't know which style Raymond has; hence the request for a photo.

MichaelG.

Not sure about how much clearance/bolting flexibility you have on your set-up Raymond but a small tilting angle plate might be of use to you and it could be used for any similar 'angled' cuts you might need to make. A cheaper (but temporary) alternative would be to bolt a suitable cylinder to the bottom of a steel plate (a kind of 'simple' sine plate) and clamp your work piece to that. A guide piece would help reverse the work and maintain the settings.

Both my milling heads can 'tilt' but frankly I don't usually bother to use this facility, as having trammed them, I am too idle to want to do it again unless it's really necessary (I use the tilt table for any 'quicky' milling jobs instead).

Of course, I probably wouldn't machine V-blocks on my milling machines anyway. I have a Shaper which would be my preferred machine tool for this particular kind of work. But that's another topic altogether of course.

Regards,

IanT

Thanks all for your in put lost of good ideas here now just need some warmer days and I'll be out there for longer than an 1hr roll on spring.

I have posted photos of the set up used for milling the clamping slots and marked block

Thanks for posting the photos, Raymond

I now see that my interpretation of your set-up was wrong.

... I shall now engage Pondering mode ...

MichaelG.

I have made V blocks in the past but back then I was in the fortunate position of being able to harden and grind them as well. Nowadays, and no longer having access to these facilities I would not even contemplate "roughing" out a set on a milling machine for precision use. So much easier to buy a manufactured set - even if they are second hand.

Rik

Raymond, With the kit you have and the size of the job it's a big ask on a relatively small machine, however I would suggest you set the vertical slide at 45 deg on the cross slide then use the compound slide as the in feed Y and the vertical slide X movement to make the cut ( up and down) The block will be mounted on the vertical slide in such a way so you can machine one side of the V then turn 180 deg to do the other side. I would use stops clamped to the V slide so that when you invert the block you will have the same setting, or at least as close as possible.

You will have to cut the V blocks into 2 I think because you will not have enough travel on the vertical slide to do them in one piece but you can asses this yourself.

hope this helps. John

Ok Raymond, I think I was also confused by the terminology used here. My apologies.

I was thinking a Rodney type milling head (vertical mill) on your lathe rather than a vertical milling slide. I agree with JohnF that this will be a tough job with this setup and even a reasonable finish (let alone Riks' precision one) will be a challenge if the set-up used isn't really rigid.

As an "out the box" thought, I wonder if it might be possible to make each v-block in two halves, which might be a wee bit easier to do with this setup and would allow other machining options to be used (such as flycutting). It would also potentially allow key surfaces to be more easily scraped (or lapped?) afterwards to improve the surfaces. Any small alignment issues should be 'adjustable' when the two halves are mated back together (get the v's right and then adjust the other plain surfaces).

I'm not sure if this is a practical proposition for you (or not) as it's always hard to see what will work without the various bits to hand to play with & try out. But sometimes a bit of lateral thinking can help help you to work around a difficult problem like this. It would be lovely to have all the necessary kit to do any kind of machining operation but even the best equipped amateur will sometimes hit problems that are hard to tackle.

So I guess my suggestion is that even if you don't have the right machine to do the work - maybe you can change the "work" to suit the available machine? Just a thought.

Regards,

IanT

.

John,

I think you are probably right; but therein lies the biggest problem [Alignment of the Vees]

... Cutting the Vees with the two Blocks still joined would be a much more reliable way of assuring that they would end-up as a matched pair. ... but no, I still can't see how to do it

MichaelG.

Rik your right even with a son now working where I could possibly buy them through him (I started this prior that) These days a reasonably priced simple set here will set me back just $50

John had considered this option

IanT again thanks for your reply and thoughts

MichaelG Thanks

I have one other idea which on another forum was also suggested.

That is using angle iron and forming the angle required on the cross feed table

I am always one to take on challenges beyond it pushes me to use the grey matter, one day i would like a mill.

.

Keep it up Raymond !!

It's no fun if it's too easy.

MichaelG.

... Cutting the Vees with the two Blocks still joined would be a much more reliable way of assuring that they would end-up as a matched pair. ... but no, I still can't see how to do it

I agree Michael - but then it becomes a different problem to solve. When I said get the V's right and then adjust the other surfaces, I had in mind clamping the V-blocks to a bar (to hold the V surfaces in alignment) potentially allowing the base and then sides & top to be milled (or flycut) to a common datum. The ends can then be simply faced whilst clamped to the bar held in the lathes' chuck.

Not that easy (or quick) but yes - all part of the fun (well mostly!)

Anyway - Good Luck Raymond - and do let us know how you tackled it in the end!

IanT.

First full day in the garage so I set up the 4x6 bandsaw in vertical mode and rough cut the waste of the V-blocks.

Glad I had a spare blade as about 1/3rd into 2nd last cut I stopped for a break and found a split in it.

I am going to ache tomorrow.

Raymond as usual there is a lot of good sound advice on here. However, without seeming to piss on your parade, I frankly cannot begin to understand why you are bothering at all, unless you have no other work to be getting on with.

I would simply buy a commercially made ground set of V-Blocks. They are so cheap these days. Second hand ones on the well known flea-bay are even cheaper. This would allow you to use them instantly to carry on with whatever projects you have in hand.

I know that many will say that "model engineers" like to make everything themselves, however good engineers do not waste time and money trying to reinvent the wheel, or in this instance the Vee Block. The cost of the material alome, as so much will become swarf, plus the time consumed and then to possibly not have a set of Vee's that are as accurate as commercialy made ones just does not make sense to me.

Sorry everybody if this is not a popular view. Other opinions are available from numerous sources.

For a light clean up like that you might get away with using a large multi-fluted counter-sinking cutter to machine the V groove to finish size. If you leave a little of the notch in the root of the V you could even cut one face at a time and make life easier for yourself.

> Other opinions are available from numerous sources.

Here's one: Apprentices make test pieces to learn and improve their skills, why shouldn't hobbyists?

Neil

Well said, Neil

Hobbyists are Amateurs in the literal sense of the word.

MichaelG.

Mike your not alone in your view but you need to take in all the facts first and see it from my side of the pond.

Yes there are cheap V-blocks about either from fleabay or other sources $35 was the cheapest small set/pair I could find did not suit what I wanted them for. Here's my main supplier of machining goods here in Sydney https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/Vee-Blocks

My other supplier has them for $39 each more to what I was after with a clamp https://mcjing.com.au/categorybrowser.aspx?categoryid=45

2nd hand V-blocks here are like hens teeth snapped up at almost new prices even if home made and these are few and far between. Usually from deceased estates of old model engineers or engineers home shops.

The steel block I got FREE from a friend

The other fact is I am on a disability pension and in Australia that money doesn't go far at all it is less than 1/3rd the average weekly wage.

This is about me and gaining skills and using my mind and hands and improving my concepts of what it would have been like if I had done the trade I wanted to. I have had plenty offers to do this for me from those with equipment I could only dream of. By engineers and model engineers who already have the gear and much more than I do.

I don't find your comment in anyway a put down, I feel sorry that so many people have come to loose insight into others lives and that its become acceptable that everyone is of the same financial situation.

That the choice is so easy these days "Just pop down to the store or net and buy them". No wonder many kids jnr engineers have no idea about hands on or using their minds and hands and hearts.

As for time well thats not up to me I am lucky to still be here after 50 years each day is a blessing.

I do have other projects to get on with this was just one of them not just in metal but also in wood and plastic's and what ever else I find.

Ray