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Lubrication on new Warco GH1230

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Luke Graham24/08/2013 21:31:16
27 forum posts

So I've got myself a shiny new lathe, it's installed on its stand and wired up. DROs are working, that was plug-and-play thanks to Warcos install.

I noticed that someone, presumably Warco, seem to have filled the headstock with oil already.

I've poked around on the internet, and seen that other people are doing everything from dumping that oil through to running elaborate break-in procedures.

I'm tempted to leave the oil in for a few hours running to bed the gears, then drain it and replace with fresh Shell Tellus 68.

Sound reasonable to everyone? If so, I'll get on with hooking up the coolant pump and doing some test cuts.

Luke

oldvelo25/08/2013 00:24:57
297 forum posts
56 photos

Hi Luke

Just run it with the oil that is inthe gearbox to run it in but before filling it with Tellus 68 flush it out thoroughly with "Straight" mineral oil 30 SAE it will do no harm if you run the spindle for a while with no load on it this will help with the removal of the old oil and any other debris in the oil sump.

I had problems with the original oil in the headstock of my 10 X 27 lathe plus the spindle bearings were packed with "Bear Grease".

A complete clean out and some extra oilways drilled.

Fitted an external oil pump and filter and fabricated a manifold to replace the top cover of the gearbox to deliver oil to all bearings and gears.

Now a very quiet running gearbox.

Eric

Luke Graham26/08/2013 10:51:26
27 forum posts

Thanks Eric, good to hear from someone with direct experience of a similar machine. I really like this lathe so far, it is in a different class to the mini-lathes and 3-in-1 combo machine I've used up till now.

Luke

Paul Harrison 510/09/2013 21:19:51
19 forum posts

As someone with a new GH1232 I was wondering what oil to use for the headstock and for putting through the button oilers. I have also found that the cutting lubricant, although more like oil than cutting fluid it is quite viscous and it flows bck to the pump so slowly that after about 5 minutes continous machining, all the lubricant is in the tray and the pump is empty. What would you recommend as a suitable alternative that won't cause corrosion to the bedways etc but will flow back to the pump quickly?

Martin Cottrell10/09/2013 21:33:59
297 forum posts
18 photos
Posted by Paul Harrison 5 on 10/09/2013 21:19:51:

As someone with a new GH1232 I was wondering what oil to use for the headstock and for putting through the button oilers. I have also found that the cutting lubricant, although more like oil than cutting fluid it is quite viscous and it flows bck to the pump so slowly that after about 5 minutes continous machining, all the lubricant is in the tray and the pump is empty. What would you recommend as a suitable alternative that won't cause corrosion to the bedways etc but will flow back to the pump quickly?

Paul, I "water down" my neat cutting oil with paraffin. A ratio of 2 lt of oil to 1 lt of paraffin seems to work ok for me.

regards, Martin.

Paul Harrison 511/09/2013 18:43:42
19 forum posts

Thanks Martin, I'll give it a try. But you have to wonder why Warco continues to supply 'Neatcut' when its viscosity is clearly unsuitable for the machine's system.

Stub Mandrel11/09/2013 19:35:17
avatar
4318 forum posts
291 photos
1 articles

Hi Paul,

Neatcut is a cutting oil, not a lubricant.

Neil

Rik Shaw11/09/2013 19:53:29
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1494 forum posts
403 photos

Paul - I use WARCO Neatcut cutting oil as a coolant on both lathe and mill. Providing I limit the flow to what is only JUST necessary I do not have probs with the oil return. Of course, using this stuff ensures that everything in sight is annointed in rust protection. The other benefit is that the lathe guideways do not need any extra lubrication - they might call it a cutting oil but that still does not prevent it acting as a lubricant.

Rik

Paul Harrison 511/09/2013 20:47:53
19 forum posts

I'm going to reply to both Neil and Rik in this one post, if that's ok.

Neil, I am aware that Neatcut is a cutting oil and I think I may have inadvertently given the impression that I would put it through the button oilers, which I obviously would not, but I would still appreciate advice on that one though.

Rik, I'll try restricting the flow and see how I get on, but you are absolutely right, NOTHING rusts when it's covered in Neatcut!

Luke Graham12/09/2013 12:14:53
27 forum posts

The problem is not the viscosity, as I use suds in mine and have the same issue with running the tank dry. I find that while it may stop temporarily, it will actually come back with low but usable pressure.

I think it may be that the filter mesh is very fine. Replacing this would be straightforward.

I may move to Neatcut or something similar, but not until I use up all the suds. I use them on my milling machine as well. As long as I wipe the table and ways down after every shift, and put something like oil or WD40 on, I don't have rust issues. I can appreciate that the Neatcut would reduce the need to make sure everything is coated, though.

Luke

Paul Harrison 512/09/2013 20:48:54
19 forum posts

Thanks Luke. As I have a reasonable supply of Neatcut, the first thing I'm going to do is restrict the flow. If that doesn't do it I'm going to change the mesh to something more coarse. After that I'll diute it with paraffin and if that doesn't do it I'll change to something else.

I'll get there in the end!

Stub Mandrel13/09/2013 10:31:05
avatar
4318 forum posts
291 photos
1 articles

Sorry Paul,

I had missed the thread switching from discussing lube oil to cutting oil.

Neil

OuBallie13/09/2013 13:48:15
avatar
1181 forum posts
669 photos

Posted by oldvelo on 25/08/2013

Snip/

. . fabricated a manifold to replace the top cover of the gearbox to deliver oil to all bearings and gears.

/Snip

Eric,

A photo/details appreciated please.

Geoff - I have clamped down, for now that is.

oldvelo15/09/2013 22:11:13
297 forum posts
56 photos

""A photo/details appreciated please.""

The oil pump is a gear pump that is driven by a 24 volt DC motor power from a transfomer with a DC rectifier.

The power supply is approximately 6volts DC fed to the motor to give a reduced speed.
The oil from the gearbox is passed through a trap that catches any particles bigger
than 0.010 mm or .004 inch.
Through the pump and then an automotive oil filter to feed the manifold to feed bearings and gears.

The “Manifold” is fabricated from two pieces of Clear Polycarbonate sheet 10mm thick
with the oil galleries milled into the top sheet.
And screwed together with a thin strip of “Super Glue” to seal the outer edge where the boltholes to fix the lid in place.

The underside is drilled and a short piece of plastic tubing push fitted to deliver oil to bearings and gears.

Eric

Apologies Luke for the intrusion to answer this question.

""A photo/details appreciated please.""

The oil pump is a gear pump that is driven by a 24 volt DC motor power from a transfomer with a DC rectifier.

The power supply is approximately 6volts DC fed to the motor to give a reduced speed.
The oil from the gearbox is passed through a trap that catches any particles bigger
than 0.010 mm or .004 inch.
Through the pump and then an automotive oil filter to feed the manifold to feed bearings and gears.

The “Manifold” is fabricated from two pieces of Clear polycarbonate sheet 10mm thick
with the oil galleries milled into the top sheet.
And screwed together with a thin strip of “Super Glue” to seal the outer edge where the boltholes to fix the lid in place.

The underside is drilled and a short piece of plastic tubing push fitted to deliver oil to bearings and gears.

OuBallie16/09/2013 13:00:21
avatar
1181 forum posts
669 photos

Thanks Eric.

Solution worth considering.

Geoff - Coffee time

oldvelo16/09/2013 20:38:08
297 forum posts
56 photos

Hi OuBallie

Thanks for the intrest have had difficulty posting piocs on this site so opened a thread

http://madmodder.net/index.php/topic,9043.0.html

Hope this helps

Eric

OuBallie17/09/2013 11:34:50
avatar
1181 forum posts
669 photos

Thanks Eric,

Nice solution and worthy of consideration.

The top of my gearbox is cast as part of the unit, with holes to drip oil where needed.

Watching those gears doing their business would be like the very first washing machine the family bought that had a viewing window in the door.

Dad spent the whole cycle sat on a chair watchingnit, mesmerized

I find myself doing so if it's operating whilst I'm having a meal or snack in the kitchen.

I will be doing a separate thread and Photo Album for the modifications I do on my BH600G.

Geoff - Need to tidy the HobbyRoom

Luke Graham19/09/2013 10:22:13
27 forum posts

Eric,

very nice, if I had that I would also sit and watch the gears spin! I think it would be a great point of interest for visitors to the shed yes

Luke

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