Member postings for Paul Harrison 5

Thanks Luke. As I have a reasonable supply of Neatcut, the first thing I'm going to do is restrict the flow. If that doesn't do it I'm going to change the mesh to something more coarse. After that I'll diute it with paraffin and if that doesn't do it I'll change to something else.

I'll get there in the end!

I'm going to reply to both Neil and Rik in this one post, if that's ok.

Neil, I am aware that Neatcut is a cutting oil and I think I may have inadvertently given the impression that I would put it through the button oilers, which I obviously would not, but I would still appreciate advice on that one though.

Rik, I'll try restricting the flow and see how I get on, but you are absolutely right, NOTHING rusts when it's covered in Neatcut!

Thanks Martin, I'll give it a try. But you have to wonder why Warco continues to supply 'Neatcut' when its viscosity is clearly unsuitable for the machine's system.

As someone with a new GH1232 I was wondering what oil to use for the headstock and for putting through the button oilers. I have also found that the cutting lubricant, although more like oil than cutting fluid it is quite viscous and it flows bck to the pump so slowly that after about 5 minutes continous machining, all the lubricant is in the tray and the pump is empty. What would you recommend as a suitable alternative that won't cause corrosion to the bedways etc but will flow back to the pump quickly?

What I meant, Andrew was that you would choose a tool with a different size 'button' to suit the desired radius. Once set up you would then presumably use either the cross slide or top slide in a straight cutting motion to produce the corresponding curve?

Sorry, but here's another question... what is a hydraulic copy unit?

Paul.

Tht's a great tool, Andrew. I take it you choose the radius you want and then just let it cut?

I've also looked up the Pawnee and was surprised to find that it is an agricutural aeroplane. I expect that with trucks, traction engines, trailers etc, but not a plane!

Off for my second visit to the local model engineering club tonight.

Thank you Andrew, Jason and Nobby. Nothing wrong with 'old hat' Nobby; I say that at the risk of restarting the CAD or No CAD debate!

Jason, FABULOUS photgraphs, really interesting and a real inspiration. I had been looking at making a ball turning device, BUT it requires milling... back to square one. Although I've emailed Warco to let me know when the mill is back in stock.

Andrew, 2 questions. First. what exactly is a button insert; I'm presuming it's a rounded equivalent to the triangular ones I have? Secondly, in your 'avatar' what are you sitting in?

Finally, sorry to everyone who's P.Md me, but I've only just checked it, still getting use to this forum malarky, but thanks for all your input.

Andrew, there are some beautiful radiused corners there. I take it that the work on both sides of the parting tool is for use?

How did you achieve those really nice corners?

Paul.

Ooooh that looks scary and the work piece looks microns away from the tool post!

I haven't parted off yet but I'm going to have to give it a go... fingers crossed

Hello OuBallie and Andy.

I take on board fully the comments about starting off making the lathe tools and I happen to have the very book to which you refer. With regard to parting off, a friend of mine says that he cuts so far through and then retracts the tools, moves it along a couple of thou' and then takes another cut to reduce the chance of the work 'grabbing' the tool.

I also agree with the comments on CAD. You don't need a DRO or power feed to machine a part, but if you have it why not use it. I suppose it's the same as saying if you want to do woodwork, use a brace and bit rather than an an electric dril, just because it tradition.

Well, regarding this computer/CAD stuff, I really do welcome computers and technlogy. However I have to say that I won't be relying on them. I've decided to start a 4" Burrell single cylinder from John Rex. I'm sure I'll be asking for help and so this won't be the last you hear from me.

So, to everyone who has taken the time to respond, a very big thank you!

Good idea, Jason. I need to get myself some drawings and make a start. Off to the Little weighton rally this weekend to see a couple of lads from the Cheshire Group, so hopefully they will boost my confidence a bit. Only worrying thing at the moment is that our boss has just had to put in £50,000 of his own money to keep the firm going and today has issued an overtime ban from July 1. Still, like I said to the other engineers, no overtime is better than no job!

Bazyle, you have no idea how many times I have said the same thing!

Well boys, first of all I absolutely see the CAD argument, but if it's that effective, why hasn't someone like Live Steam Models done this and made a fortune selling highly accurate plans at double the price of ones full of errors.. it doesn't make sense!

Now I know that I've probably gone overboard with my first lathe, having a gear head, gap bed, coolant system, digital readout and power crossfeed, but I also have to strongly agree with Gordon, Tony, Ray and Richard, these engines were originally built before any of this technology and they're still running. Miniatures have been built on Drummonds and Myfords and the like and with the most basic of tooling.

I intend to have a look at some of the CAD software, but my priority is learning to actually cut metal!

It is a little amusing when people refer to building a first model and then moving onto something else. As a first project, if I start now it will be touch and go whether I have it finished by retirement!

Gary and Jason, this needs to be put on the back burner, trust me I have enough headaches with lathe tools and choosing a mill without all the CAD stuff.

I'll get a couple of buckets of swarf out of the way first!

Thank you, Chris. I suppose being a bit of an extrovert I definitely lean towards the showmans engine. Regarding rallying, to be honest it doesn't really bother me that much, it will be being built to 'road' even if it goes to the shops, park etc. I just can't see the point of building something like that and then not using it. A friend of mine builds steam engines, but never ever steams them, just runs them on compressed air... madness. You need the heat, the steam and the smell!

I think I sourced the Burrell plans from Live Steam Models; I would hope that tthey would be aware of any inaccuracies but I suppose I shouldn't expect perfection. The other thing of course is, until you start building something, how can you tell that the plans are wrong just by looking?

Well boys, thanks for all that input, but before I think of gear cutting, Andrew, a good finish on a parallel bar would be a nice starting point! I'm still working out which tool does which cuts and in which direction.

Thanks also for reminding me that the expensive drawings I'm about to buy won't be accurate. I can't believe that nobody has managed to produce an upto date copy with all the errors taken out, hmm now there's an idea.

Finally, Richard, is there a preferred CAD programme for model engineers or is that a matter of personal choice as well?

Once again, many thanks to everyone taking the time to help me out with this, very appreciated.

Thanks Chris,

I have to agree with you there, I know for a fact I am going to make LOTS of mistakes. For that reason I thought it might be nice to have a go at something like a gauge 1 loco, something relatively simple like an 0-6-0 before venturing further.

Anyway, we'll see what comes of my meeting with the local group tonight.

Goodness me, what a load of replies! First of all let me say thank you to everyone who has taken the trouble to reply. I have endeavoured to send a personal 'thank you' to each of you but if I've missed someone please accept my apologies. i will now try and cover all your comments in one post!

On a personal level I didn't feel ready to make a start in the engineering world, but I know that that is just me not wanting to be out of my comfort zone. My partner and some friends 'pushed' rather than encouraged me to 'get stuck in' hence my current situation. I have received advice saying buy new Chinese equipment as it will be unworn and come with a guarantee and second hand stuff may well need a fortune spending on it, while others have told me to avoid Chinese stuff. Some have said buy the biggest and best you can afford while others have said buy what will get you by and move up as your experience increases. Most people have said start with something small and get bigger, while a few have said don't waste time building 'Stuart' models or the like, just build what you want. I was going to have a go at a 1" Minnie, however the universal advice was it's easier to build a 2" than a 1" and at least you'll have a useable engine. This was further compounded with the advice, if you're going to build 2" you might as well build 4" if your equipment will take it. This then became, if your going to do a 4", why not do a showman's? So, Buy British or buy Chinese: Buy small or Go for the biggest: Start with small easy model or Just go for it. My poor head is spinning. Thank you for the attached photographs, there is some truly amazing stuff out there. I reply to you, John, the Hull and District Club meets tonight, so I'm going to have a wander down there. I do also realise the size of some of the bits on a 4" engine, but have decide I would be happy to outsource anything that I couldn't accomodate, rather than downsize the engine. I am on teh Traction Talk Forum but haven't seen the miniatures section; I'll make a point of looking.

Once again a big thank you to you all and when I make my decision I will let you know and then take the pats on the back along with the riducule and dissmay!

Regards,

Paul.

P.S. Hope you can read this, Bob.

In September I will be 57 and my very supportive partner has encouraged me to buy a lathe and fulfil a childhood dream of building a traction engine. I was unsure, however she has assured me that if I don't do it now, in 10 years time I will regret it. Having no experience at all I listened to a lot of people and took a lot of advice, which ended up with the arrival of a WARCO GH1232 lathe last month. I have now, rather embarrassingly found out that almost every engineering project involves as much milling as turning, a facility I do not have. A vertical slide seems rather useless on larger jobs like a 4" road loco and so I have been looking at a couple of mills, the WARCO Major and the WARCO GH Universal mill. I would really appreciate answers to a couple of very basic questions. How valuable is it to have a mill with a tilting head rather than fixed and what is the difference between an MT3 and R8 tool holder and which is better.

I know everyone must get fed up of answering these basic questions but it seems that the more I learn, the more I need to learn!