Myford saddle

Hi all, I'm a newbie too the forum , I've recently purchased a Myford ml 4 , I have a few queries that I hope you chaps can help me with.

Firstly when turning the handle on the saddle ,it moves a large amount with very little input ,it's difficult to explain its not back lash, its the distance the saddle moves to one revolution of the handle ,I'd like to have a better ' feel ' when doing precise work ,I'd prefer to work the saddle instead of the compound slide.

sorry for the poor explanation but its difficult to put into words, my second question is, will a screw cutting gearbox of a Myford ml7 fit the ml4 ?

Thanks in advance Kev

hi kevin,

Have a look here: (ML7 apron IPC, similar to ML4)

http://www.myford.co.uk/acatalog/Myford_ML7_Apron_Assembly.html

The play is the play from the gears & rack assy, for precise move, use

top slide or lead screw & graduated hand wheel.

No idea for the gearbox installation (depend on your skill)

Hemingway kit is selling plans & kit for a ML7/S7/ML10 Gbx,

this plans contain certainly installation instructions

pierre

(owner of ML7 sn K37512)

ML7 gearbox unsuitable for the ML4, the use of the saddle is possible but limited without an accurate measuring system or leadscrew dial.

Kevin,

I agree with you that it is better not to rely on the saddle handwheel for applying accurate feeds; it is just too coarse. I also avoid using the topslide for parallel turning where possible; it is much too restricting to have to keep it parallel to the bed at all times. The best solution is to use power feed where possible, and where you need precise controllability a graduated handwheel on the leadscrew is ideal (see the one on the Super 7). I'm not sure whether it is feasible to put one on an ML4 as I've never seen one close-up.

If it isn't possible, then consider fitting a DRO to that axis, then the coarseness of feel of the saddle handwheel may become easier to live with.

David

Edited By David Littlewood on 08/10/2012 11:46:06

An ML4 is an entry level unit not worth any serious upgrading work

Good enough to learn on though, and you can fix any wobbly bits

After a year or two if you get serious you'll realise this

Spareys book is the bible for newbies, all newcomers should get this book

**LINK**

There are a number of modifications which should be made (mods)

A leadscew handle would be my first one

**LINK**

gl

Hi Kevin

I've had an ML4 and ML S7. I doubt that any parts are interchangeable. For a start the sides of the bed for the ML4 are trangular and the bed width is less than the 7 hence there is no chance of the saddle parts being interchangeable, The leadscrew handwheel is the way for a fine feed. I see from Ady's pic that he has one fitted. There wasn't one with mine but there was a nut on the RH end of the leadscrew which I was able to replace with a piece of tapped rod on which to mount a handwheel. I remember leaving the gear off the other end of the lead screw to enable use of the handwheel. I don't think the idea of adapting a 7 gearbox is worth considering and I doubt anyway that it could be made to fit.. The cost of even a S/H gearbox  from a scrap machine via ebay is likely to be more than a small, brand new, eastern manufactured lathe.

Set up the handwheel as mentioned and enjoy learning to use your machine. You will learn a lot and, if you are carefull with it, in time if you have ambitions to trade up, you will be able to sell it again to help fund your next lathe.

* I seem to remember that the saddle traverse pinion operated directly on the rack hence the handwheel had to be turned in the opposite direction to normal - am I remembering correctly?

Regards

Norman

Edited By NJH on 08/10/2012 18:55:45

Edited By NJH on 08/10/2012 18:59:24

number 2 is the tumbler rreverse

number 3,4 ?

the lead screw is easy enought to work out, thanks Kev

Edited By Kevin Fenrich on 08/10/2012 19:28:19

Edited By Kevin Fenrich on 08/10/2012 19:28:52

Edited By Kevin Fenrich on 08/10/2012 19:29:21

Edited By Kevin Fenrich on 08/10/2012 19:33:43

Hi Kevin

At the risk of stating the obvious you are engaging the half nuts aren't you?

N

Mmm yes I think your right, you can tell I'm new to the Myford lathe

Thanks for everyone whm has replied on the thread, I bought a hand wheel from rdg tools and modified it to fit ,I've also made a drip / swarf tray for when I get a coolant system .

Here's some pics

I made a small bush ,with an internal thread to screw onto the lead screw and also incorporated a lock nut on the lead screw

[IMG]http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l313/kevfenrich/af562311534ba881c60e653d83289936.jpg[/IMG]

Another angle

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l313/kevfenrich/d67db0a6a2b5722390cbbd9baddee49d.jpg

Tthe lathe as it stands

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l313/kevfenrich/1a20cee56322653cbc38faf7685fe80b.jpg

im still struggling to fathom out the screw cutting gears

Edited By Kevin Fenrich on 14/10/2012 14:57:24

Kevin,

http://www.usinages.com/manuels-documentations-machines-outils-disponibles/index-des-documentations-machines-outils-accessoires-t25730.html

Scroll down to "Myford" then dowload :

1 _" Myford pignonnerie" an explanation of change gears for Series 7 lathes + ML10

2_"Myford ML4 manual" a succint manual for the ML4 with a threading chart a the end

For the set-up remove all gears, then start from the lead-screw, inserting a strip of copy

paper between the gear teeth (remove prior use).

brgds

pierre

Thanks for the reply Pierre , I have the Myford ml4 manual ,the forum you've linked above wont let me down load the info as I'm not a member

Edited By Kevin Fenrich on 14/10/2012 19:07:00

Yes, RDG sell the leadscrew handles. YOu can also get them secondhand on eBay. Make sure you get the imperial handle with 125 graduations to match your 8tpi leadscrew where one turn equals one eighth of an inch travel. Dont get the leadscrew handle with 160 graduations as its for metric.

It is possible to add an extra gear between the handle and the pinion that engages the rack, if you make up the brackets and get the right gears etc. Quite a bit of work. Geoff Walker did an article in MEW magazine in the past year or so on how to do this on a Drummond M Type lathe which is quite similar.

Jon

I "lived" with the saddle traverse handle of my ML4 moving the carriage the opposite way to that expected on other lathes. In the end I looked upon it as a "little quirk" of an old lady and forgave "Millie the Myford" her little excentricities ! You will quickly learn to turn it in the right direction - just be really careful if you are close to the chuck!

Norman

Thank you Norman,

Like I said at the worst I can use a handle on the lead screw, if it really starts to annoy me