Manual for Realm-Royal 10" shaper

Please does anyone have a manual for either the Realm-Royal 10"shaper or the Viceroy 250 shaper which is the very simalar machine.

Cannot help you with this John, but may I ask you politely what you expect to find in a shaper's manual what you cannot learn from having a sharp look at it?

I own a Boxford 8" and use it without any kind of manual.

Greetings, Hansrudolf

While not a direct answer have a look at http://www.neme-s.org/

Scroll down the page to "Metal Shaper FAQ", Metal Shaper Columns", and "Metal Shaper Books in PDF"

I have a Royal 10inch shaper. What is it you need to know?

Mike

TO MICHAEL COLE I HAVE JUST BOUGHT A ROYAL 10" SHAPER TO AND NEED TRO KNOW EVERYTHING ,LUBRICATION ADJUSTMENTS ETC I HAVE NEVER USED A SHAPER BEFORE AND WOULD BE GRATFULL FOR ANY INFO REGARDS alan

is there any way to lock the clapper so that it dosnt flap on a 10" royal shaper alan

Why would you want to Alan? The clapper being free to lift is what keeps the tool clear of the workpiece on the return stroke

I've never had a shaper but I understand the clapper box lifting can be fatal if one is trying to machine a dovetail.

Neil

Cheers Neil. You learn something new every day. Logical when you think about it. Have only used my shaper for plane surfaces

cheers for comments i have some dovetails & tee slots to do and have seen somewhere that you have to lock clapper i was just not sure how i will be taking tiny cuts regarde alan

You can use a door hinge type attachment on the back of the tool, which lifts the entire tool clear after each forward stroke

Saw it a while back being used to make a t slot

Basically the lower hinge drags up the top of the workpiece during the forward stroke

When the tool clears the cut it runs forwards another inch or two

this allows the 90 degree hinge to drop down straight to 180 degrees, falling behind the tool

this then lifts everything clear of the workpiece on the return stroke

It's an old shaper/planer users trick and seems to work well and is mainly dependent upon enough clearance at the end of each stroke

Edited By Ady1 on 19/03/2013 11:48:51

Alan

Run a search on the internet for "The Shaping Machine", by Ian Bradley, ISBN 0 85242 323 3. It should be out there somewhere and downloadable as a pd - at l;east it was a couple or three years ago. As well as giving general advice about the machines and what the various bits do, why and how, it also covers use of the machine for jobs like T slots, dovetails, internal keyways and internal gears.

Well worth looking for.

You can occassionally pick it up secondhand on EBay as well but it fetches quite high prices - a heck of a lot more than the £2 cover price when it was published.

Keith

In answer to Neil: Yes, if the clapper box is not rotated slightly relative to the angle of the rotatable topslide then the tool is liable to dig into the work on the return stroke. In my experience looking at the set up will tell you in which direction to advance the angle of the clapper box relative the angle of the topslide. This then results in the tool swinging away from the machined face.

Unless I am mistaken, it is exactly the same issue when machining a slot except that in that case the topslide is vertical. If in that case the clapper box is tilted in the wrong direction it wil cause the tool to dig into the side of the slot.

Clive.

Edited By Clive Barker on 19/03/2013 17:36:53

HI Clive,

I can imagine it may be possible, but is there still the risk of fouling teh bottom of the slot?

Neil

John, I recently acquired a new shaper (Acorn 7" ) which I am very pleased with. Fortunately I was able to download the manual and parts list as it is a version of the Atlas machine widely avaialbe in the US. I also wanted to learn about how to best 'Shape' and it is not quiet as simple as it might first appear. I downloaded the Ian Bradley book - which is Ok as a starting point but not the authoritative source in my view. I also downloaded "Shaper Work" (a suggested course in) by Delmar Publishers Inc. This is an excellent set of very comprehensive 'units' on various aspects of shaper work that will apply to just about any machine from what I can tell. A second recommendation would be the US Army guide to using the South Bend 7" shaper. It covers the basics but in not quite the same detail of Delmar. (comment - for some reason I can't get line breaks at the moment? - so this will be one long paragraph!). These books can be found at achive.com (sorry 'pasting' doesn't seem to be working for me att either). Hope this helps - Regards, IanT

Edited By IanT on 20/03/2013 09:17:01

where did you manage to download ian bradleys book i have been looking all over the internet without success the other books i can get but not this one regards alan

The bradley book is here

Hi Neil! Sorry for the late reply.

I don't think there is any risk of fouling the bottom of the dovertail so long as the angle of the clapper box relative to the angle of the dovertail is small to moderate - small enough to guarantee movement away from the angled face, but not so great that it interferes with the lifting action of the clapper box.

See schematic below (someone might prove me wrong, but my own experience seems to confirm this is correct).

Clive.

Perhaps to state the blindingly obvious Alan - that to cut a dovetail the tool tip needs to be a sharper angle than the dovetail being cut e.g. a 60 degree dovetail needs a 55 degree tool tip. The recommended method seems to be to first rough out from the 'top' of the required dovetail using the shapers power feed (away from the top edge to give a 90 degree down cut). Then having set the vertical slide over (and starting at the bottom of the 90 deg edge just formed) wind up (sideways?) and in a bit before rough cutting the dovetail back 'down' using the vertical hand feed. This is repeated until the dovetail is "roughed out". The final finishing cut is made 'up' from the bottom of the dovetail and away from the bottom in the horizontal direction. So rough cuts in and finishing cuts away from the bottom of the dovetail. The clapper angle shown above is correct (and is free to move) - but obviously only the tool enters the dovetail. Cutting a slot, the clapper is either locked or a lifting device can be fitted - depends to some extent on whether the slot is closed or not (e.g. if the slot is being formed between two drilled holes you have to lock the clapper - or if the ends are 'open' a lifter can be employed). Generally the advice is to use a tool narrower than the required slot and rough out the slot first before finish upcutting the sides Hope this helps. Regs IanT PS Stll cannot use 'enter/CR' to make new lines/paragraphs - anyone know why??

If I ever come across an old Adept, I shall grab it with both hands!

Neil