Member postings for Clive Barker

I dismantled most of the machine in this order: Removal of vertical head, table leadscrew, table, table base with gearbox, cross-feed, knee (which had to be removed vertically), motor, feed pulley, countershaft, electrical gear, disconnection of coolant pipework, and finally separation of the column from the base. I didn't remove the rear bearing cover or disturb the gearbox. Reassembly was straightforward. Hope you find the best solution for you!

I recently dismantled an A&S 1AG on my own and loaded into a van using a engine hoist (with a little help towards the end). The most difficult part was lifting the cast iron base into the back of the van. It was heavy and a little too wide for the engine hoist feet - but I managed. It would have been easier had I not had a time limit ie a return ferry booking followed by a long drive. Removal from the van and reassembly with plenty of time was no problem. It helped me to identify a few issues to deal with.

The video was made in Pakistan. There are many small workshops like this.

Hello HD, Welcome to the forum, not that I am a great contributor - but I thought you deserved a welcome and some encouragement. I looked up the RandA. It looks like a great little machine. It sounds like it is going to be difficult to get the screw cutting operational without undue expense/time and effort. Perhaps the saddle and cross slide issues are just a question of dismantling cleaning and readjusting the gib strips. Possibly the same with the tailstock. Clive.

Hello Simon,

I recently renovated a Colchester student similar to yours (Mk1.5 with matrix clutch) and produced 3 You Tube videos of the process and some simple lessons learnt. The 2nd and 3rd may contain more useful information; the first may be helpful in showing some details of assembly and what is under the covers:

Clive.

Edited By Clive Barker on 20/09/2021 21:18:33

Edited By Clive Barker on 20/09/2021 21:24:59

Thanks all for your helpful comments and suggestions. On following the links I can see that HCL is available and that there are several alternative avenues. Many thanks once again. Clive.

I wonder if anyone can advise about alternatives to hydrochloric etching prior to nickel plating. This is something new for me. I have watched a few videos, some of which advocate etching after surface preparation and degreasing. Unfortunately hydrochloric acid doesn't seem to be easy to purchase in small quantities. Some advocate using concrete/slab cleaner but it seems they don't all contain hydrochloric acid and some might even be alkali.

Is this etching just a stage of the cleaning which could be done other ways? Are there alternative ways to etch the steel?

Any advice would be most welcome.

Thank you, Clive.

I don't know about the legal status issues etc, but I agree with the comments about learning the local language and trying to integrate into the local culture if this is be a serious long-term move. This will also require a certain amount of energy and commitment if you are to be successful. I think it is also important that both of you are fully committed to this move and the whole undertaking. Clive.

Hello Liam,

I recently purchased a similar Colchester 1965 except straight bed. I had the option of separating out the major components for transportation which, in my case, was an easier option. I anticipated that it would take a few months to completely strip down, re-paint, and reassemble with an inverter drive. In the end it was much quicker than anticipated and I was able to do some basic fitting to improve some fits and replace one damaged but functioning gear in the leadscrew and feed screw gearbox. Refitting a shear pin and ensuring the saddle interlock mechanism worked again (a missing component apparently caused the damage to the gear). All in all, a very satisfying project.

Inspection of the bed, leadscrew, morse tapers and headstock (by taking the cover off) should tell you quickly whether this is going to be a breakdown for spares or a worthwhile restoration. Seems you cant go wrong for £300 if you have the time and motivation.

Clive.

Thanks Jason & Pete for your replies. It is the idler gear for a Colchester Student Mk1 Norton Gearbox. Using a magnifying glass ruler and protractor it looks like 20deg pressure angle. The HPC off the shelf gear with a sleeve looks like the way to go.

Thank you all for your responses. Dave I don't know how I missed the imperial sizes in the HPC listing. As for pressure angle - I am going to have to get the magnifying glass out! I assume 20deg.

Does anyone know where I can get a 27 tooth 16DP steel gear made. 27 teeth is not a stock item. Many thanks.

Two weeks ago I moved a Colchester Student Mk1 from the north of Pakistan to my home in the south - about 850km. The transportation was easy as I hired a truck. The challenge was getting the lathe down 3 full flights of stairs for loading and after unloading down another flight of stairs with a 90 deg turn just 40in wide into our basement. The only solution for me was to dismantle it and box the pieces including the bed. The stand was a challenge as there is nothing handy to hold on to. We solved this by lashing wooden cross-members under the tray. The advantage of dismantling the lathe was that I got a good look at its condition and it was convenient for a good clean and repaint.

**LINK**

Dear Neil,

Thanks for your reply. Sorry it took me a long to answer.

Given the positive experience of other overseas subscribers I agree that the problem must be at my end. The fact that a batch came through could be the result of different packaging.

I am reluctant to cease my subscription - just not sure if the electronic option suits my purposes, but will think on it.

Happy New year to all,

Clive.

I wonder if anyone else who receives overseas subscriptions has had problems:

For many years (about 20) all copies arrived safely even when the local overseas address changed. Then, from last year deliveries ceased. Since the subscription was a gift I didn't follow up the case until much later when I discovered that it had not expired. When it was followed up one copy was delivered but no further copies arrived. Further follow-up resulted in several back copies being delivered in one package - but then again, nothing followed.

Reluctantly, I have had to inform the person who paid for these regular subscriptions not to renew. The agency blamed the local postal services where I live, but I am not sure.

For boring small holes I have used old taps. Worked well for me.

Clive.

Thanks John for the helpful comments. Yes, now you mention it I can see that height was already a problem with my temporary burner. Will look into propane/butane alternatives.

Clive.

Hi Dave,

I too am looking for a suitable burner design, but for a Stirling hot air engine. I have made the Bruce Engineering kit and run the engine off an hoc temporary burner but would like to make something more satisfactory. So I too am looking for suitable designs - preferably with some kind of reservoir so the burner can run for a long time between fills.

Clive.

Well I might be. Is 'One man and His Lathe' a current series in Model Engineer? I haven't been able to access my mailed copies for a while so a bit out of touch. I did write an article for Model Engineer but it didn't go anywhere. C

Thanks all for your helpful comments. It seems to me that this a commercially produced machine though of unusual design. However, there are no identifying marks.

Thanks Michael for the link to the very ineresting homemade lathe to a very unusual design. You may be interested in my own homemade lathe in my Album made with limited access to machine tools. The bed was fabricated from stock black bar and filed to shape. All patterns for castings were home produced and cast just down the road from where I lived. The lathe is still being developed.

Clive.