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Stuart 10H and Score

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Doddy	22/01/2010 16:40:44
72 forum posts 103 photos	No problems facing and boring the cylinder, set up around the outer edge with scribe block. just used a small vee block to spread the load on the webs - maybe some packing would help to prevent any marks milled the steam way then set to the required angle and nipped in the vice, centre drilled and then drill through to ports The three cylinders so far.......
lancelot	22/01/2010 17:15:35
63 forum posts 4 photos	Hi David, when you come to fitting the cylinders to the frame bed...if the pitch circle dia. on the drawing is used I think you will find it very difficult to fit the nuts at the back of the cylinders...This is the ''Score'' I am referring to, I really would like the pitch circle increased a bit on the drawing...I made the mistake of following the drawing and had one heck of a lot of ''fettling'' to do plus had to use ''one size smaller nuts''...lucky not to scrap it. All the best for now, John.
Circlip	22/01/2010 17:36:10
1723 forum posts	Might be worth checking that all the machined faces and the bore are square and true to each other David, boreing using the 4 jaw to hold the cylinder may be a bit suspect. Hope it is true. Regards Ian.
Doddy	22/01/2010 18:01:31
72 forum posts 103 photos	The rough casting was set in the four jaw and set to the rough cast outside edge using a scribing block then the front edge faced, followed by the bore (without moving from the chuck) this ensure the front face which bolts to the frame is square to the bore. A mandrel was then made to fit the bore - size for size (just warmed the cylinder with a hot air gun to shrink fit) then the outer face was turned The cylinder was then bolted to my face plate on the milling machine to square off to size the port face - will have to find the photo's
Doddy	23/01/2010 17:20:22
72 forum posts 103 photos	Many thanks lancelot for the tip RE: "fitting the cylinders to the frame bed" will check the PCD - thought I'd make the cylinder covers first then drill tapping size through with the cover/cylinder in place then open cover hole out to clearance size
Doddy	27/01/2010 16:39:48
72 forum posts 103 photos	Made up a chucking piece and had no problems machining cylinder top covers But now I need some advice - the Stuart drawings shows the Bottom Cylinder Cover which carries the gland housing say to drill and tap 5/16" br 26tpi ? what thread is that - is it an ME thread (thought they were 32tpi or 40tpi) not sure if to go for M8x1.0 pitch or 5/16"BSF or do I make a nice little two bolt hole gland follower in brass using 10BA studding ? I know it will be small an fiddly to nip up - any thoughts most welcome Any thought on were to spend my money on HSS taps and dies ME or Metric ?
David Clark 1	27/01/2010 16:52:09
3357 forum posts 112 photos 10 articles	Hi There 5/16 x 26 is I think an ME series tap and die. Tracy tools for new or the Toolbox in Colyton Devon for second hand. regards David
martin leslie	27/01/2010 17:04:39
8 forum posts	Hi Your thread is also a 5/16 Bscy or Cycle thread. As found by the dozen on pre 1970 British Motorcycles.
Mike Rose	27/01/2010 17:15:52
9 forum posts	Hi There also was one called British Standard Brass (BSB) which used 26 TPI for all sizes. I believe the thread profiles differ foreach standard. regards Mike
Doddy	19/02/2010 16:44:37
72 forum posts 103 photos	Ok as I've not yet saved enough pounds, shillings and pence to buy some decent ME taps and dies I've made my Stuart 10H a nice little gland follower with 8BA studs, just enough room and should be able to get a spanner on to nip up the gland. I know the purests will frown on me not following the drawing, but as I don't intend to run this on steam, I don't think it to much of a problem, and I think it looks much better, but failing that I can always make the gland as per the drawing once I've spent some of (her in charge) money Gland follower using 8BA nuts and studs Dosen't look much room but should be able to get an 8BA spanner on ! Similar dimensions to the threaded gland follower on the drawing so should clear the Crosshead ? Edited By David Dodwell on 19/02/2010 16:49:25
Jeff Dayman	19/02/2010 16:48:14
2356 forum posts 47 photos	Looks great to me, well done. JGD
lancelot	20/02/2010 13:32:54
63 forum posts 4 photos	nothing wrong with that... actually solves some of the inherent binding problems involved with the threaded gland type...keep her cutting David. John.
Doddy	22/02/2010 17:33:10
72 forum posts 103 photos	Posted by lancelot on 22/01/2010 17:15:35: Hi David, when you come to fitting the cylinders to the frame bed...if the pitch circle dia. on the drawing is used I think you will find it very difficult to fit the nuts at the back of the cylinders...This is the ''Score'' I am referring to, I really would like the pitch circle increased a bit on the drawing...I made the mistake of following the drawing and had one heck of a lot of ''fettling'' to do plus had to use ''one size smaller nuts''...lucky not to scrap it. All the best for now, John. Thanks John, your're right, it is a little tight at 1 1/8th PCD so made mine 1 3/16" PCD PCD 1 1/8th as per drawing looks a little tight ! so made mine 1"3/16th Edited By David Dodwell on 22/02/2010 17:36:39
Doddy	19/03/2010 16:10:20
72 forum posts 103 photos	Wasn't to keen on the Stuart "S" cast in the middle of the valve cover so made my own from a cast iron off cut Fabricated the crank - be-aware that the plans show the crankpin to be 5/8" long - It's not it's 11/16" (many thanks for the tip off "Pengwern") back in the lathe to clean up crank webs Made some oil cups Crank installed and aligned - had to trim a few thou off the inner faces
NJH	19/03/2010 17:01:19
2314 forum posts 139 photos	Hi David This is a very useful and interesting thread. I particularly like your 'photos of components and set-ups. These, together with the tips you have received, should provide a valuable resource for builders of these or other Stuart models. Well done! NJH
Nigel McBurney 1	19/03/2010 19:34:25
1101 forum posts 3 photos	hi five sixteenth dia by 26 tpi is British standard brass thread the form is Whitworth with thread angle of 55 degrees, brass thread all 26 tpi is commonly used on english models including stuart. BSB also used on old gas fittings. British cycle is different it has a 60 degree thread form.
Doddy	07/04/2010 21:31:02
72 forum posts 103 photos	So how did you split the con-rod big end? - I was going to use a fine slit saw in the mill but struggled to find an easy way to hold it square, as it won't fit my vice very well - then thought about using the Dremmel but again couldn't hold it secure and square so gave up and used the Juinior hacksaw ! Big mistake !! too much speed and not enough haste ? (see photo of the run off) - ended up making a new bottom half will be making a jig for holding the two con-rods for the Double next time - but here its OK now and installed
Doddy	05/05/2010 20:49:23
72 forum posts 103 photos	Nearly finished made the eccentric up in the 3jaw Just some fit and finishing now Valves - Drain cocks and some pipework next and then the hardest part (for me!) how to paint and finish off - any help most welcome
Ramon Wilson	06/05/2010 23:26:42
1655 forum posts 617 photos	Hullo David, In response to your request for help in painting I think I may be able to offer a bit of help on that front. All the old adages on painting hold true except that oft heard phrase 'A coat of paint covers a multitude of sins'. Quite simply it doesn't but on the other hand it doesn't take much effort and certainly less than you have put in so far with this very nice job of building this10H to achieve a reasonable finish. It is always a shame to see a nicely made model let down by a poorly applied paint job. Achieving a good result depends on several factors but number one has to be good surface preparation followed by good compatible products and means to apply them. You have the choice of two methods - by brush or by spray - either aerosol or proper spraygun. 'Generally' - By brush it is better to use enamels or acrylics and apply cellulose products by spraying though these are getting more difficult to obtain in small quantities. Personally, though I have the means of both, I would unhesitatingly use a brush finish for what you intend at this time. The castings should be carefully degreased - acetone or cellulose thinner - spray gun cleaner available at car accessory shops is ideal. Then take the time to mask up those areas you wish to leave unpainted. I lay masking tape down on a piece of perspex and cut it to the widths I need with a scalpel and straight edge. I used to think of masking as a pain - a time barrier between 'now' and applying the paint. The time for the application of the paint is usually much less than that required for masking so I look at it from the opposite direction now - the masking is much the more important bit of the process. Once masked up the pores of the casting need to be filled. Ideally - if it's still available use brush applied car cellulose grey primer. This is the only cellulose product you really want to apply with a brush. Brush on several thin coats - don't be tempted to put it on thickly - if you do it will appear dry but will still be soft - when the next layer goes on you will drag it off. After about three coats give it a light rub over with wet and dry paper - about 320 grit and repeat it. Finish the final layer or two with 600 used wet. Your final colour finish (two to three coats maximum) will be dictated by these layers. By keeping it thin it can be applied quickly trying not to brush it out and going over the same area twice as this can/will cause dragging. Buy yourself a couple of nice brushes at an art shop. They don't have to be expensive sable but buy good quality. I use 3/8" wide flat synthetic bristle brushes (normally sold for water colour or acrylic application) one for primer the other for the colour. Enamel paint should be thinned slightly, standing the tin on a radiator to warm the paint or in a dish of fairly hot water - this will help the paint flow better. Do not try to get a perfectly even, opaque coverage on the first coat but concentrate more on a thin layer of uniform thickness . Let it dry well - preferably overnight - then cut it back gently with wet and dry 600 grit used wet sufficient for the second coat to adhere to. You should have a very nice smooth finish by the third coat at the most depending on the make of paint and colour chosen. Let it harden for at least week or so before trying to buff a finish into it with silver polish /brasso/T-Cut etc. Enamel paint will go successfully over cellulose but not the other way. Acrylic paint will also go over cellulose but may, possibly, exhibit a cracked finish in a short time. This is normally due to the paint below 'moving' which cellulose does over time. Acrylic is very hard and subsequently cracks. I have not used this combination on metal surfaces but have, to my cost, on a model aircraft, the whole lot having to be stripped off within a week of painting it. If you do decide to use acrylic then I would definitely use an acrylic base on the casting. Paints - nothing wrong with good old Humbrol, though I prefer 'Japlac'. International paints are very good too though I don't think they are available in the small 250ml tins anymore. And of course many others including the Phoenix paints though I have never used them. I would add to always use the recommended thinner. No doubt you can use 'white spirit' on some but if it goes wrong it's too late. I hope the above gives you a start - no doubt others will add to this but any questions just ask Best advice is just take your time, don't be in a hurry to apply the colour but get the sub-surface right first. Regards - Ramon Edited By Ramon Wilson on 06/05/2010 23:29:30
Doddy	07/05/2010 19:06:48
72 forum posts 103 photos	Many thanks for that - any thoughts on the small steel parts such as the studs and nuts ! do I need to laqucer them once polished or just leave them lighty oiled !

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