Member postings for lancelot

Hi folks...working on my Corliss build and making fork ends for the occilating drive rods...I managed to scrounge a section of steel from an engineering shop and went ahead to make them...I was soon to discover easier said than done...this stuff was like armour plate...very hard to get a good finish on cut ...tended to tear rather than cut and difficult to file...also gave off streams of small yellowish white tiny sparks on touchíng the buff wheel...any thoughs on what this material could be...

Lancelot.

Hi Colin ......sorry for hijacking your post ...it has been a while ... great work on the Cowells ...I have the mill and use very long reach clock gauges...not used to diggy stuff I hope you can see the photo of what I am currently building ...this will keep me going for some time .

Cheers,

John.

Hi folks...just off phone with Stuarts their guy said allseems right in my build 9/64'' should let it run but same as you Nick check inlet ports for sand blockage which would give it that back pressure ''thump''

back soon...

John.

Hi Jason...if I am reading your question correctly drawing 1993 issue shows dimens ..(.on my cylinder holes for ports were already in p;ace ) inlet ports 3/32'' top and bottom exhaust port 3/16'' the exhaust port just happens to be exactly in line with the outlet on the side of the cylinder which gives a chance of running into on of the 7 ba stud holes ...I user a DENTAL drill point to drill a sort of curved connecting hole and still managed to just touch on the stud hole.....

the distance between the top and bottom inlet ports is 3/8''the centre line of the exhaust port lies on two middle valve chest stud holes

cheers John......lancelot.

Hi folks... back again to say the Coombes is completed........But....It will not start....She tries with approx. 50 lbs pressure kicking over almost 70% of a rev...with speed and power I have checked all linkages for looseness the timing has been reset umpteen times ......no joy....I started this build way back ,with a 2 year break then had to obtain new drawings issued 1993...which show the offset for the occilator sheave as 9/64'' this drawing supercedes all the others and the book which shows it as 11/64'' ...I have made mine at 9/64''.........I have found that this does not allow for the inlet valves to open to their full capacity and are only opening part way top and bottom this makes trying to set the timing very difficult...

Would certainly appreciate your comments and ideas on this on...

All the best for now ...

John lancelot

Ha Ha...I can read mine with my morning Cuppa ...just in time for my birthday

Talking to the techie. who builds and services my computers, I mentioned that I was looking for some little micro bearings and gear trains ...haven't got any, threw last in dump, but I know some on who has......so having retrieved it to my shed I spent a few hours dismantling a very large Copying Machine...only 1/2 way through and a bucket load of bits to sort through later.

John.

Hi Nick...how are you getting on with the Coombes ? I found that there were a few mechanical fouls on my build (possibly due to working with outdated and then the latest drawing)...

Keep her cuttin Nick...

John.

Hi folks...spent the past day or two fitting a new sight glass and getting the ''Beast'' my big Stuart boiler ready for work......sorted out some glitches with the 10v ...now running well....would some one please give me an Idiots guide to setting the timing ''step by step'' on this very Cranky Score......OK I pulled it about a bit when I refurbished and painted it...it's back together now and turns freely the fine setting adjuster thingys had locked them selves to the crank shaft so the timing needs to be completely reset......Coombes on hold until I find out the correct Gib adjustment procedure for the Cowells mill.

John.

Hi follks, Jason gave a very good run down on the machining sequence...I had to do the same only ''Different'' yesterday

reason being .when I started th build I worked to the first set of drawings...I found a problem 2 of them...the gland position was out of line with the cent of the 1'' spigit locator and the piston shaft a fair piece most of 2 mill....figured out how much to move spigot off centre and still retain working dimensions ...bored for shaft and found gland appr..40 thou. off ...stud positions ...nottoo happy ...a little off.........Three years later ''Parky''' I picked up on my build again...contacted Stuarts about the cover problem ...asked them if I should follow the first set of drawings ,as the latest showed 6 holes spaced against the first drg,,showed 4 spaced plus I had already fitted it to the cylinder It was agreed I should go with the original drg.......so that is exactly what I wasup to yesterday...following Jasons plan of attack 'less 2 holes'' one more thing ,,,height guage the centres of the gland stud positions and piston shaft centres front and bach of cover ....Good building.

Edited By lancelot on 15/11/2014 11:59:51

Hi lance and Jason, thank you for replying ...I will try the message route '

John.

Hi Admin...would some one more savvy than I ,please explain what is going on... I have attempted to send a short message to the latest ''Coombes''builder and a couple of reduced photos with no luck the computer says I am sending a zillion times too much text...some guidance is needed here...John.

Noticed the split nut engagement lever was having a hard time engaging with the lead screw for some time ...decided to strip it down...good thing I did ...after a good soak in white spirit and a scrub with a mini wire brush ,I had a look at the split nuts... the bottoms of the threads were packed tight with hard crud ,mainly what looked like cast iron and brass , I had to dig it out with a scriber point...after doing bot h and giving the wire brush treatment they looked like new......all cleaned and parts checked o/k reassembled the system back ( after cleaning and checking the lead screw at engagment area)...a little fine tuning to do other wise in fine nick..

John.

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Hi all...measured up cabinet cut a section of shed wall out ''double skinned '' so quite a job...removed cabinet through hole ...repaired and strengthened hole with security items...If using ''GORILLA GLUE'' do what it says on the tin ''WEAR GLOVES'' .

Hi All...engine work is on temporary hold for a bit...I am stripping down the ''speed 10 '' Myford to get it out of the massive steel cabinet it is in...i reckon it will almost double the room I will have ...I will build a workbench to mount it on...at moment all that is left to get out of the shed is the bare steel stripped down cabinet...Getting it out of the shed s a teaser...the shed is actually built round the unit...Funny until you have to get it outthere is no height clearance allowing us to lift it and wangle it out... there seem to be two options ...cut it up smaller...''big job.fire hazard '' remove end of shed...feasible??? watch this space...

John.

Hi Folks, thank you all for this information...I will give brazed tips a go ...if i can unearth them may just change the design of the part all together '

All the best for now,

John.

Good afternoon Steve I need to trust the dealer i got it from so when told it was free cutting steel and fairly cerrtain EN38 results as described above.....as for ''Consultants'' Nuff said...

Hi Keith...I am reasonably certain EN 38 was mentioned along the rather crackly phone...what grade of steel would react like that to machining and give off that kind of spark..

John.

Hi Colin and Jon...I recently obtained some 3/8''by 1/2'' I was told EN38 flat barfirstly my hacksaw with a new blad had trouble cutting it ended up cutting it with a chop saw......tidying up the ends of the bar for centering the linisher buff gave off a stream of small very bright golden yellow sparks.....in the lathe bar set up true ...tooling Glanz with circular tip... lathe sherline...( I know dont be surprised it has cut bigger ) anywaywhen toolapplied to metal it tore rather than cut speed was ok as was feed tried a HSS tool basically the sam...I do not think there was any problem with set up or tooling but I am not so sure of the material

any ideas on this,

John.