Broken Electric motor Junction box

Good afternoon all,

Just had an accident in the workshop that has damaged the Brook Crompton 0.37kW electric motor on my Atlas 7" shaper. A heavy bar slipped and crashed down on the motor's junction box (fortunately the shaper was being moved and was not plugged in to the mains! ) the result is the whole of the junction box has disintegrated with only two parts of any reasonable size.

Does anyone know where a junction box to suit can be obtained from?

Motor ref number is HPA 534 TFBH 3A

Pictures of the damage, I guess the orientation is going to be skew-whiff, appreciate it if a mod could rotate accordingly.

Thanks in anticipation,

Martin

Edited By SillyOldDuffer on 21/03/2021 19:08:39

Hi Oily Rag, I'd probably get something like this Junction Box if it was mine and make a cradle for the curve of the motor.

Regards Nick.

It looks like it was a surface mount light switch box. If you used the suggested metal one you will need the plastic grommets

Nick,

I had considered using an RS die cast box (I happen to have a selection under the bench!) but was looking for something less conductive! I suppose one route maybe to approach a motor rewinder as they may stock these parts or happen to have one from a 'scrapper' ripe for salvage.

Dave,

It was originally two pieces, a lower part with suitable radius to match the motor 'barrel', which also took the motor break out onto the insulation board, all clamped up to the motor barrel. Then it had a top cover which had 4 bolts in the corners and a rubber gasket to seal it, the mains cable went in through this top cover via a gland nut. Those parts in the second picture are the largest remaining parts of the 'shrapnel'.

Martin

Most of the older motors had metal boxes. I would use the diecast box you have and make sure that you use insulated standoffs to keep the magic smoke contained in the box. You could line the box with an insulator if you wish too.

regards

If you look on the internet for a whisks box, find the most suitable size for what you need. They are in rated, tough and made of a plastic material.

Should read wiska box

Job for a 3D printer, make it in 1 piece and retain with 2 screws through the top to the existing brass studs.
Make the volume large enough to accommodate the extra length of cable for terminations.

Emgee

Hi Martin,

You have all the motor info, why not just call Brooks and get a new original one !

http://brookcrompton.com/distributors.aspx

John, I would be amazed if Brook Crompton could supply a spare box for such an old motor. They have difficulty in supplying data about them, let alone spares. But go ahead and prove me wrong.

Andrew.

If the box was a standard single electrical box, Toolstation have good quality metal boxes complete with lid. It looks as if the board might mount on the long screws without the live connections shorting.

See Product code: 15062 - Axiom Metal Clad Blank Plate 1 Gang + Back Box

There are also similar boxes in other sizes. The website is frustrating though, and not everything they stock is necessarily displayed, but may be found with different search text.

OR, if you have any motor rewinders in your area, they may well have some duff motors lying about, and you could be lucky and find one. They could also hold new ones.

Chris Gunn

I'd make use of a 3D printer.

Update

Well the visit to the motor rewinder was an experience! Lots of sucked in air and comments like "I've had hundreds just like that - can't be repaired - no parts available past or present" after a bit of time he said I could help myself to any parts from his scrap pile. So eventually I found one similar to mine with a smashed base but the top box was (almost) complete. Got it for nothing so didn't owe me anything if it was no good.

Back home and a rummage through the recycle bin / abandoned projects and came out with a aluminium construction with a radius in two short side plates which was almost but not quite correct. On the band saw to hack off excess material and then onto the mill to 'bore' the rad with a fly cutter, then carve out a hole to clear the terminal plate, drill some holes to match the terminal plate, fit the salvaged top box and JD! (Job Done)

Insulated with thick card inside and earthed correctly.

Shaper is now just waiting to be wired up again.

Thanks for all those that made suggestions

Martin