Wilding’s tower clock

During the current lock-down situation, my mind has been wandering on the subject of ‘one day in the (far) future’ projects.

Tower/turret clocks have always interested me & I’m wondering if John Wilding’s small tower clock is suitable for a total beginner to the world of clock making who has never even cut a gear, or is it similar to someone choosing a 7 1/4” 4-8-8-4 Big Boy as a first foray into loco building?

Thanks

Brian

Edited By Bodger Brian on 25/05/2020 20:05:08

I would not have thought it totally beyond the pale. It's certainly not watchmaking. It uses a recoil escapement so nothing complicated there. It's weight driven so no fusees or spring barrels. Probably the biggest ask is the bevel gears.

Personally I don't totally hold with the 'beginners model' philosophy. Provided you have the stamina why build a simple locomotive that you don't want when you could be getting on with an engine you do want.

I started building a King when I started model engineering about 30 years ago. (I'm probably half way there) becaus it was an engine I was interested in. During that time I have built most of George Thomas' workshop devices, a number of clocks, a quorn and a few small stationary engines. The King was always going to be the long term project and I learnt on all the other stuff along the way.

regards Martin

I would say it is one of the easiest of Wilding's clocks I started it years ago but pressure of other projects mainly my clock Repair business. The wheels are nice and big with a module of 1 and a choice of recoil or dead beat escapement it is quite big so you will need a Myford sized lathe and mill

Coming from a very new clockmaker, I would encourage you to have a go and enjoy the journey. I did

David

This may inspire you to build one: HERE

Start on the smaller components and expect failures. That way you haven't wasted as much material and will gain the expertise to tackle the more complicated parts.

Yes go for it ! It's a well thought out design.

The only advice I would give you is to make sure you understand how it all goes together before starting and get to know what's a flexible dimension and what is not.

I'm working on this clock at the moment but before cutting metal, or even buying metal, I've decided to create a full assembly drawing so that the whole design is clear in my mind. I don't plan to spend time on matching the exact form sketched out by Wilding so my drawing allows me to see quickly how I can modify, cut corners, save some cash or time. I did see a video somewhere where the builder bought some oversize brass for the front and rear frames then proceeded to cut slices off each with a slitting saw just in order to meet some arbitrary dimension in the plans. I really don't want to make work for myself doing things like this. Life is short enough as it is !

I also plan to metricate all the components to make life easier. I don't know about you but I find it increasingly difficult to decide quickly whether 27/64ths is bigger or smaller than 10/16ths, and by how much ! There are endless conundrums like this to contend with and plenty of opportunity in my case for mental aberations.

Gerry

oh yes, I'm also thinking of ditching the gears and going for timing belts instead. I know that will up set a lot of people but I like to explore crazy ideas sometimes.

Thanks for the helpful comments, chaps. At the moment it’s a long way in the future but it looks as if it’s not unachievable - I like the idea that the wheels are a reasonable size & not in watchmaker territory.

Incidentally Gerry, I couldn’t agree more about imperial fractions!

Brian

I would not recommend it as a first clock to be honest. The first clock I built some 25 years ago was a Wilding eight-day wall clock. I remember finding this a challenge and I made many mistakes generating a lot of scrap metal in the process. The advantage of a medium sized clock like this is that the materials are not too expensive if you need couple of goes to get things right. Its also not so small as to be fiddly. The turret clock is not that much more complicated but so much larger. The main wheel for example requires a five inch diameter and 3/8 thick brass blank. I would want a bit of practice and confidence under my belt before starting to cut metal !

How about the eight-day long case clock by Alan Timmins ? Good design and a well written and a clear book to go with it.

You need to think about what you are going to do with it when finished.

Have you seen this thread. It is based on the John Wilding egg timer, that then was developed into his beginner's clock. Have a search on this site using some of the words above and you find several other threads

To be fair to Brian he may be a beginner at clockmaking but as far as I can see not to model making or workshop practice. If you are an adequate metal worker you should be able to cope with the machining and there are no particular difficulties on the horological side. The fact of the large scale and large driving weights makes it less of a horological exercise and more akin to mainstream metalworking. The train is fully adjustable and only 'pegged' when the builder is happy with it, depthing in situe as it were. If you think you can cope with the scale then go for it.

After all many early tower clocks were produced by blacksmiths.

regards Martin