Member postings for lfoggy

My first few clocks built in the 90s used BA threads but I now only use standard metric. There are a vareity of pitches for each size and fateners are plentiful or easy to make your own. Metric sizes also integrate better with metric stock materials and metric dimensions. Can't see any advantage in using BA sizes any more.

I've used silver steel, EN8 and EN24 for making clock pinions. The EN24 is by far the best. Cuts quite easily with a Thornton HSS cutter with flood coolant leaving a very good finish that requires minimal polishing. The EN24t is already hardened and tempered and no further heat treatment is required. The silver steel cuts less well and gives a less good finish and needs hardening but is OK. The EN8 can't really be hardened in the average home workshop.

If you don't have J Malcolm Wild's book 'Wheel and Pinion Cutting in Horology' I would recommend this....

Edited By lfoggy on 13/08/2023 20:44:38

Edited By lfoggy on 13/08/2023 20:45:35

The John Wilding eight day wall clock was my first horology project some 30 years ago and my clock is ticking quietly on the wall as I type this. The book is well written, comprehensive and easy to follow. It describes very traditional techniques and materials for the construction of the clock, all of which are easily accessible in a basic model engineer's workshop. Definitely a good first project...

I built one which was the first IC engine I had attempted. Having built maninly clocks and stationary steam engines before, it did present a few new machinging challenges, but I learnt a lot building it and it now runs very nicely with a genuine Harley Davidson engine note. Making the cam shaft was new to me and the cylinder heads required care to get right as well, but nothing that isn't possible with a basic lathe and manual milling machine.

The nice thing about the Hoglet is that it is a visually very interesting engine that is guaranteed to attract attention.

Edited By lfoggy on 07/06/2023 20:13:55

Hi Ray,

We may well have met. I entered medical school in Southampton in 1984, then did research in Cambridge in the 90s. I am now a consultant nephrologist so not doing any microscopy anymore, but we do get EM done on all our renal biospies.....

I'm looking forward to seeing this project progressing.

Great project.

You should join the Royal Microscopical Society. No, it's not a very small society, it is devoted to furthering the science of microscopy. www.rms.org.uk

I did my PhD in the field of microscopy and became familar with light, confocal and ultra-thin section immuno-gold electron microscopy. Our department had a replica Leeuwenhoek which I played with a few times and found virtually impossible to use. I think Leeuwenhoek must have had a lot of patience....

Model engineers may be interested in the cutting of ultra-thin frozen sections. The microtome (we used a Reichert Cryo Ultramicrotome) could cut sections down to 5nm thick. Back in the day, these were purely mechanical devices that advanced the block (the sample) by increments of as little as 5nm relative to the diamond knife. All this while the sample was held at liquid nitrogen temperatures. Pause to think about that for a minute.....

I've built a good few clocks in my home workshop over the years but also have an interest in watches with an evolving collection. The idea that is always at the back of my mind is building a watch. It's just a small clock after all.

Everything would need to be scaled down but otherwise nothing scary.

Feasible in a home workshop ? Anyone done it ?

I used metric equivalents which give metric increments. Can't remember the exact sizes but happy to find out for you if you are interested.

I use a dial indicator bearing on the tool holder to give a readout of movement, rather than scales on the screw head which is much more convenient as well.

To be honest the differential nut arrangement is rarely actually used......easier to just turn the direct nut a tiny amount.

There are some enterprising 'scam baiters' who connect scam callers to AI powered chatbots, and upload the resulting conversations to YouTube. The chatbot is a little incoherent which the scammer interprets as a vulnerable person, encouraging them to persevere with the call. The ensuing conversations can be hilarious. Some calls go on for hours as well....

Hello and welcome.

I built a Quorn Mk3 from the Hemingway kit and plans. Its a great project and the quality of the kit and castings is excellent. Might well be no more expensive than getting all the parts and materials together seperately.

I'm 57 and have been model engineering since I was in my teens. Never really used the imperial system unless I really had no choice, like building a Stuart Turner model! Maybe a career in molecular biology and medicine is part of the reason, as imperial measurements were abandoned a long, long time ago in these disciplines.

That's a good looking mod Stueeee, I am impressed. Have ordered a 24V, 25 amp power supply from Amazon so should find out in a few days if this does the trick.

Thanks John, you clearly know much more than I do about motors and how they work (which is not difficult given my shallow level of knowledge) The DC motor only has two wires exiting the body and if you remove the cover on the bottom of the motor there are no terminals or any options to change the wiring configuration. I think the motor 'is what it is' as they say. I am changing direction with a simple switch that changes the polarity of the input voltage. Am I not right in assuming that this DC motor is 'symetrical' in operation when you switch the input polarity? Should I just get a power supply that has a peak output of 20 amps and see if that works?

That looks great Optical.

I did a similar mod for my machine as below. Really very easy to make and it is definitely solid. The rigidity of the toolpost stiffens the whole topslide as well.

Edited By lfoggy on 22/01/2023 17:43:22

I'm building a power feed for the knee of my turret milling machine and need some advice on the power supply I require. I've got a Parvalux brushed 24v DC motor rated at 120watts. Motor is fitted with a worm reduction gearbox so output speed is around 90rpm. Should be more than enough as my 18v cordless drill driver will wizz the knee up and down no problem. I've done the mechanical bits and have been testing the system with a 5amp 24v DC power supply I have. It lowers the knee no problem but can't always get started elevating the knee. Once its going though it seems OK. I assume the motor draws more current when starting elevating the knee as this does require considerably more torque.

The motor data plate says 120 watts and 6.8amps which is odd as 120 watts at 24 volts is 5 amps? Is that the peak current in starting? Also I am controlling the motor with PWM type power regulator rated 9-28v and 20 amps so that should be OK. With no load on the motor it all works perfectly.

Pics of motor plate and setup below. Question is what DC power supply do I need here to make this work ? Please assume no knowledge of power supplies or their characteristics.....

Any other advice? Thanks in advance.

Edited By lfoggy on 22/01/2023 17:33:07

Hello John,

Clockmaking is a great pass time but can be quite frustrating and challenging. A lathe, pillar drill and some method for dividing and cutting wheels is essential. There are quite a few specific small tools you will also need but these are all easy to make yourself. I found John Wilding's books and plans to be an excellent starting point which cover pretty much every aspect of clockmaking in a home workshop. Another good book is Making an Eight Day Longcase Clock by Alan Timmins. I've now made half a dozen clocks over the years and am currently working on an English bracket clock with double fusees. I'm in Birmingham so if you need any advice or assistance do get in touch.

Inserts available from Cromwell for £110 for 10....should last me another decade of use.

I Have the same tool purchased from Greenwood some 10 years ago. I bought 10 inserts at the same time. Pic of tool and insert pack below. Fortunately the inserts last for ages but I am now running out as well......

Edited By lfoggy on 06/01/2023 16:04:34

I've had good results removing them with pliers like this, which are ground for enhanced grip on a screw head. I've got a set of three sizes and the smallest size is perfect for griping these pesky fasteners and twisting them out without damaging anything.

There is a sizable community of vintage computer enthusiasts out there with their own websites and forums. I bet you would get help with your question there.