Member postings for Stephen Benson

0.6 is a common module for clocks so you should be able to sell it after you have used it as long as it is a Thornton one and they do come up on Ebay quite often just search for PP Thornton

If you are going to wear them for extended periods I would avoid buying cheaper I have used mine daily for over 15 years perfect but I have put a leather strip where it touches skin and never get any eye strain

I would say it is one of the easiest of Wilding's clocks I started it years ago but pressure of other projects mainly my clock Repair business. The wheels are nice and big with a module of 1 and a choice of recoil or dead beat escapement it is quite big so you will need a Myford sized lathe and mill

I do this all the time, do not silver solder Tix will be fine and no need to dovetail either depending on the size I use a screw head slotting file but any flat edge cutting file will do as long as it is not too large or coarse

Edited By Stephen Benson on 07/01/2020 21:56:37

Hi another Cheshire Clockmaker here I used to build now I repair them pretty well full time now

I have one and I made several clocks with it only issues I have had is that it is quite large and after a while (a couple of clocks) you need to adjust the backlash but it is easy to do.

I have since bought a smaller one the Geo Thomas which fits my Cowells mill so the Vertex one is for sale £80 with tail stock plus shipping

Edited By Stephen Benson on 25/09/2018 13:16:50

You should be able to compress the spring with long nose pliers to get a piece of soft wire in to replace the pin without dismantling

DO NOT ATTEMPT DISMANTLE WITH OUT LETTING DOWN THE SPRINGS 

Edited By Stephen Benson on 24/09/2018 17:26:37

The smiths movement has a star shaped tension spring on the centre arbor which is retained by a pin this pin may have fallen out or there is too much lubrication degreasing the spring may help.

I can get mine to fit on my Cowells mill no problems best dividing head by far I have ever used and I have used a few including the Cowells one which is very poor, I noticed that RDG Tools was selling them with the micro adjuster which I wish I had for miine

Edited By Stephen Benson on 25/07/2018 21:35:21

Hipp toggle is on my todo list however I have no idea how to get email notifications other than by posting on thread

As a Clock repairer I wear mine all the time so it is very tempting to not wear safety glasses when wearing your Optivisor, but I will always wear my safety glasses under the optivisor when grinding and the like.

I was very close to buying their mill but this thread really changed my mind

You should post the question on

**LINK**

However it is not locking when going into warning then the chime correction mech is putting it back into sync on the hour, at 10 past the warning wheel should turn about half a turn then lock until the minute hand reaches quarter past when it the lever drops of the centre arbor cam. best to pull the movement out and watch it

Edited By Stephen Benson on 17/10/2017 21:50:06

This site is brilliant for a beginner

mb.nawcc.org/

Some of the information is contradictory but you find that in clock repair books as well

Enjoyed the series to even my Wife enjoyed them I think a Enfield Clock would be great subject love to see him using a spring winder

I repair clocks also, just a few pointers on the Cowells lathe if the belt slips a lot then it is time for a new belt and you can easily upgrade the dials to resettable ones by ordering just the plastic dial and O ring from Cowells and modifying the handles yourself.

I have a Cowells and good quality 3/16 square HSS is great for finishing but for metal removal I recommend a Glanze SCLCR 0606 D06 Right hand tool holder with CCGT carbide inserts the finish you will get is amazing on all materials.

I have a pannier frame welded 20 years ago by a friend who unfortunately can no longer weld due to ill health. I have used this setup to travel all over Scandinavia and northern Europe on my 1950 Sunbeam S8 motor cycle I even made it to Finland and back.

However I have just noticed one of the sides has fractured in front of a through pin it is not really load bearing but could be under tension I wanted some advice on how to best repair it.

First thought is to cut away the welded pin and turn up a piece to join the two pieces of tube redrill for the pin but this will still need welding so I wanted to know if it could be welded as is ?

I have been using my Cowells for years and I have few comments first new belts do not slip once the belt starts to slip it is getting worn out, having to remove the spindle to replace is probably why Cowells owners do not replace the belts as often as they could. never had a problem with accuracy had no problems using 0.5mm carbide drills on French Clock pivots or making parts for my Stewarts S50 steam engine

Second comment never used a Sherline but they have a good rep with USA clock makers , my observation is the black anodising looks terrible after a year or so

Edited By Stephen Benson on 21/07/2017 17:02:33

Space is so limited in my tiny indoor workshop that my bench has to be clear, have a lathe or a mill on it paid about £700 for the mill but will not lose much if I wanted to sell it