Another 'glue' question

I need to temporally attach two thin Bronze flanges to a casting's face in order to drill through 10BA holes on a 15mm PCD all mounted on a dividing table. What loctite would you use? there will be little lateral force applied during drilling but it is essential for no movement to take place and de-mounting causes no distortion or surface damage.

In a previous life I used to glue thin brass sheets to a face-plate when turning the knife edges on windage baffles, then release them with a hot-air gun - but I can't remember what grade of loctite we used.

Tony

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I use natural resin Just put some on one component, heat lightly (hot air gun works a treat) until a running liquid and place other component on top. You will not get the two apart until it is reheated.

Double sided tape works too, but it isn't infallible, as I know to my cost on one rare occasion!

Andrew.

I keep a small bottle of cyanoacrylate superglue in the workshop for quick attachment of small items to spot through for hole positioning. Works in seconds. Often easier than a clamp. A quick tap usually separates the items. If not, then a bit of heat helps.

Have used double sided tape as well. take your pick.

Too micro-sized for me but on a macro scale I don’t think I would do it that way. I would drill one of the two parts and then affix one piece to the other to spot and drill one fixing hole. Secure that fixing and then drill through the other holes adding more fixings as I went along. And using something to centre the flange while securing it, if it has to fit exactly. I’m likely way off beam, but just my thoughts.

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I agree with Andrew ... Shellac should work fine

Incidentally: I used some heavy-duty double-sided tape recently, and nearly lost the workpiece.

I applied a few drops of PlusGas as a lubricant when milling some rather chewy Aluminium alloy: The tape lost all adhesion !!

MichaelG.

Just use superglue?

Although it may well work, I don't think that Loctite is intended for this kind of application, more for shafts in bores.

I too keep a bottle of cyanoacrylate in the workshop for just this kind of job. I find that it will stick within a short space of time, especially if your fingers get in the equation with the parts you are fixing, but the bond is better if you can leave it for an hour or so. As with all adhesives cleanliness is a good thing. To unstick it moderate heat works well and to avoid distortion I find that dropping the glued assembly in hot water usually does the trick. In the case described in the OP's question I would heat the casting with a hot air gun until the flanges fell off.

Jim

Edited By Jim Nic on 21/05/2020 20:21:27

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Unfortunately, Jim ... under Henkel

‘Loctite’ has become a brand, rather than a particular type of product, so the point is moot

[ An issue regarded as potentially debatable, but no longer practically applicable.]

MichaelG.

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Loctite brand cyanoacrylate is very good

https://www.loctiteproducts.com/en/products/fix/super-glue.html

Edited By Michael Gilligan on 21/05/2020 21:23:27

Yes its a good method and used it myself on acrylic sheets ect however the quality is variable... cheap stuff glue goes bungey and hard to remove and needs solvent/ brasso works well!; the red translucent expensive stuff works great, and leaves no glue film behind... i used used to soak in warm soapy water over night and the sheets prised apart easliy... super glue is good for small parts ; found that clamping while gluing works better; no idea why but less failed joints!

good luck!

+1 for superglue.

I recently made a pair of 5mm square cushion shaped gold earrings. Filing the cushion curves was easy, but holding the little squares wasn't, until I superglued them to end of a shaped wooden dowel. It worked fine, and removal was easy with a little heat.