Cleaning up surface rust

I want to clean the surface rust from the handles and gears and mating surfaces on my lathe, the rust isn't horrible orange colour, but as I plan to strip the lathe down for a clean, I was wondering about cleaning the dark brown surface rust from parts like the handles, to make them look a little nicer.

I'm wondering the best way to go about this, and the methods that come to mind are...

1. buffing wheels, and some polishing paste

2. fine wet and dry paper and oil

3. wire wool, then scotch bright pads in various grades.

Which do you think will be the best solution to give a long lasting finish that doesn't damage the metal under the rust. I have read the myford user manual and that states that there may be a fine rust that appears on the surface but this should not be detrimental to the machine, however I would much prefer not to be taking pic's of rust when photographing parts that i'm making.

Whats the methods you would use?

Hi Jon. Many threads on rust removal on the forum including this one. **LINK**

regards

Edited By Oldiron on 01/03/2018 15:26:56

Working parts can be cleaned and oiled but if you clean the handles to a bright finish then you will have to oil them and your hands, a smooth brown patina is sort of protective if used regularly, you may have a never ending task if you clean them to bright.

Mike

For any pitted rusty chromed surfaces such as handles, where you don't want anything too aggressive, one of the motorcyclists' tricks is crushed aluminium baking foil and Pepsi/Coke rubbed vigorously.

Works a treat.

Bill

Thanks for your replies, I have just had a read through the link that Oldiron posted. Lots of interesting ideas including using potatoes, not the first time I've heard of the humble potato been used in machining, the other use is for tempering tooling. So thanks for that one.

Mike, thanks I was wondering about whether id be making a rod for my own back.

Bill, My partners used foil for cleaning battery terminals, when they are corroded so Ill look at that on a spare handle I have before I go further onto doing it to the rest of my lathe handles. I can see that coke/acid been a bit of an issue on the lathe though, I was wanting to avoid any strong chemicals, (I have a two year old in the house and four other kids that stay over weekends), so these household methods are intriguing.

Jon

Jon, the handles and wheels on my ML7 were in a pretty bad way with flaking chrome etc, plus several exposed steel parts on the crosslide and tailstock,
After stripping down, removing paint and degreasing, I shoved the lot into a very hot citric acid mix, they came out squeaky clean in a matter of hours, you need to dry, polish and coat them soon after washing in clean water otherwise they'll rust again immediately,
If you can't attend to them straight away, leave the parts as they are straight out of the acid, the fluid will dry and protect the surface stopping rusting, but as soon as you wash them they'll rust if left,

For the handles and handwheels to get the bad chrome off and pitting out, I shoved mine in another lathe (the Myford was stripped) and cleaned them up using 180G production paper to get the real grot out, then worked up to 600G W&D finishing with a scotchbrite pad then general oil, the centres of the wheels got ordinary grey paint.
If your headstock is still in business, you could still use the chuck for that sort of gear.

The acid is dirt cheap typically £1 for 250G of crystals, and safe, you can shove your hands in it but not advisable if you have any cuts, it's also safe to chuck down the drain when done, if you leave it in a tank it'll grow big gobs of mould on the surface so don't leave it hanging around.
I bought a 30 litre lidded plastic storage box to do my stuff, everything goes into it now, from tools to car suspension and brake parts, I've got a grit blast cabinet but never use it now, this is far easier.

John.

I think some citric acid will no doubt be the way to go, there' a lot of issues which need addressing, but the headstock is still intact for now. Though may be stripped for new bearings. But that's another thread.

Bill I tried your method by the way, this took less than 5mins.

Edited By Jon Cameron on 01/03/2018 20:34:20

It works well for things like motorcycle silencers, that might be impractical to use other methods. Spray the exhausts with Motorex 645 or its replacement afterwards, and it helps keep them looking tidy.

Bill

For handles and tools you will touch after cleaning use beeswax furniture polish (not silicone based polishes).

Phosphoric acid, as in cola brands.

Dilute pure axis 10:1 or thereabouts, spray/brush/dip part, leave overnight, then wash in water.

May need more applications depending on how rusty.

Phosphoric also makes short work of scale, it bubbles as the acid does its job.

Will be using some in Boadicea's cylinder block.

Geoff - Also de-scales sink, taps, bog etc

With regard to the aluminium rubbing technique - Does it actually remove rust or is the ally being deposited into the rust making it look shiny? ...or maybe a bit of both?

Ed.

My 2 favourites are: Oxalic Acid for leaving overnight (1tbs of acid salt in a gallon of water) or the use of scotchbrite wheels on the bench grinder. I have fine and course ones (about 6" in diameter and 4 or 6 'wheels' together - removes rust easily and if the metal underneath needs a final polish, then use a buffing wheel.

Matt

Just so you find the 'scotchbrite' product I like, this is the sort of thing I am referring to:

**LINK**

(I have never bought from these guys) I also prefer the 4 x 6" disc version ....

Matt

FWIW ~ I find the carbide-impregnated mesh used by plumbers excellent for cleaning off rust from non-critical surfaces. A roll was purchased from a hardware shop some years ago and a quick search shows this similar product. It claims "Open mesh abrasive strips 38mm x 250mm are supplied as a pack of 10 assorted grits. Made of fibreglass mesh bonded with silicon carbide grit and ideal for the preparation of copper and steel pipes for soldering and also for the renewal of paint or corrosion.":-
**LINK**
The well-used bits are kept for lighter, surface rust

Hi all, have posted before about cleaning aluminium motorcycle castings by boiling them with rhubarb leaves, Oxalic acid, not always available in current weather conditions, however regarding cleaning motorcycle exhaust systems a friend bought a very expensive moped for a knockdown drag out price, upon starting it & setting off down the street it created a smoke screen worthy of a destroyer, I drew the conclusion that it's former owner thought that the mixing ratio for the 2 stroke fuel meant 20 of oil to 1 of petrol! Never having tried my suggestion ( Saint Albert of Einstein "I would not call it research if I knew what I was doing" ) I settled on biological washing powder, set up silencer & downpipe vertically, remove baffles to do them seperately, covered end of downpipe with tape, stick plastic funnel in end of silencer, which was uppermost of course, fill to overflowing with boiling strong solution of the wash powder, in a short time effervescing like a witches cauldron left it in till it went cold, end result clean as the proverbial whistle. We naturally flushed the fuel tank then refilled with correct mix & a test run showed virtually no visible smoke, result.

Bob