advice on what to build

half way into a twin cylinder horizontal reversing stationary engine ,thinking about next engine .building a steam powered railway engine. any advice for a first build and best place for drawings English or metric

largest dia I can turn is 6" x 3 0" manual and cnc

milling 6" in y 30" in x manual and cnc

many thanks Geoff

I would start with; what do you like tempered with what do you think you could tackle. Do you want to build a kit, build from an established design with available castings or build from scratch including research, design including boiler, pattern make and machine as required?

Brian

Hi Brian

I would like to build from scratch no castings

and yes I would like to build my own boiler no idea where to start ,machining is not a problem ,no idea about boilers

and will need advice on getting it inspected and tested

thanks Geoff

A lot of people seem to choose Rob Roy as:

• A 3 1/2" gauge 0-6-0 isn't a huge investment compared to larger gauges.
• It can pull more than just the driver.
• You can use it at most tracks.
• I have seen a beginner being tutored in silver soldering a Rob Roy boiler - it appears to be a suitable design for making a first boiler, perhaps with advice/support. Again it won't entirely bankrupt you if it goes wrong.
• You can carry it and get it into the boot of your car without help.
• It's a proven design with plenty out there and despite errors on the drawing they are well documented on the web.
• Laser cut frames and other bits available to speed things up.
• It's based on a real prototype (Caledonian Railway) and looks good with lots of character.
• It won't take a lifetime to build (unless you let it).

If I go for a steamer, it will get serious consideration.

Neil

Edit: Shop round, I found big differences in boiler kit prices. Differences in casting and drawing costs as well.

Edited By Neil Wyatt on 05/08/2017 17:20:02

Edited By Neil Wyatt on 05/08/2017 17:21:09

thanks Neil

sounds like good advice where can I get the drawings ? can I look before I buy them ?

Thanks Geoff

More good advice is to join your local model engineering society, that way you will probably get to see a finished engine and maybe have a drive, someone may well have plans for you to have a look at, there will be a friendly boiler inspector to advise, guide and eventually certify your boiler, the club will probably have its own insurance scheme in place and may well have its own track.

Brian

Geoff

Rob Roy was serialized in M.E. 1961 if you have access to back issues or a book was published. Try club library if you belong to one or Ebay.

Paul

You could look at the southern Q1 in 31/2 gauge, I believe rob roy has errors in the drawings etc, do some research, regards alan

Having built a few locos the most important thing is that the one you select inspires you as there are times in all loco builds when you feel like giving up, it is a long hard road for most people. Boiler making is not the bugbear it is often made out to be but it does require investment in some kit.

I would give serious thought as to what your goal is, if you want a loco to be able to pull your family around your local club track go for a 5" gauge. They are far easier to manage. 35 years ago I started building a Tich, 3.5 0-4-0 shutter, I did get as far as running it once on the club track, took it apart to paint it and there it remains to this day. I currently run a 5" Jinty to Martin Evans design, it will pull at least 8 adults, has done much public passenger hauling at the club and doesn't break the bank to build.

I suggest you get to your local track and see what is running there.

Michael

Try GLR Kennions for drawings of Rob Roy.

This thread has some errors, you can ask for more advice there.

Hello Geoff,

What to build? well what a question, you'll no doubt get many designs suggested, but much depends on your skill level, available machinery, depth of pocket etc. My first advice would be to join a local model engineering society if you haven't already done so, perhaps look a a couple, go and have a chin wag in the steaming bays. Then there is always the question to build in either 3½" or 5" gauge, you could go away and build a 5" gauge Britannia, Duchess A4 etc, only it'll take that much longer and the bits are that much larger and importantly, heavier. Personally I'd try and take on a design, the construction of which has been described in the past. but I'd steer clear of the smaller 3½" gauge tank locomotives, their performance on the track although reasonable also leaves a lot to be desired considering all the work that has gone into the build. Of the 3½ designs I'd suggest LBSC's Masie, it has a great build manual, hundreds have been built and they do what it says on the tin! Some of the smaller 5" gauge designs are worth a look, Don Young's Glen is a straight forward excellent design and you've got a tender to put you cup of tea on! Take a look on line at the various supplier's cataloguers, if only for inspiration and gulp at the prices some are asking.

Here's wishing you every success with your chosen design,

Regards,

Bob

Thanks all for all your advice

bit of research today found out we have a railway track at Littledown Bounemouth open Wednesday and Sundays

think it would be a good idea to go there on Wednesday and have a chat not far only in Highcliffe

once again thanks Geoff

Greetings,

I am a bit reluctant to enter into this post, because it takes a long time to build a loco, and it is important to pick a design that you like & will enjoy working on for some time.

In 3.5 inch gauge, I would recommend Martin Evan's Stanier 2 6 4 tank rather than Rob Roy for several reasons, and yes, I have built 2 of both, so feel able to comment sensibly.

Firstly, the out side walsharts valve gear is much easier to make, set up and get working correctly, with all the bits easily accessable, whereas Rob Roy is inside, very fiddly, and needs a fair bit of dismantling to get it running sweetly.

Secondly, although a larger locomotive, there are several sub asemblies, such as pony truck, bogie, etc on which you can "cut your teeth" so to speak, and have the pleasure of a definite sub project finished.

Finally, in my opinion, the Stanier design runs better, notches up better, and will pull more passengers.

Yes it will be a little more expensive to buy the bits, and the boiler is somewhat more complicated, but with help from club members should be OK. It was the first boiler I ever built, and still have the first loco after 37 years, where as I sold both Rob Roys fairly soon after finishing them.

As a final argument for this design's consideration, I am about to start building a 71/4 doubled up Stanier 2-6-4 tank.

Most of all, study the designs, try to pick a modern one, but pick one you like.

Good luck with your build.

regards

Brian

Edited By Brian Baker 1 on 06/08/2017 17:51:28

Does anyone know where I might find/acquire some drawings of the 1945-1951 Fairburn locomotive?

Michael W