By continuing to use this site, you agree to our use of cookies. Find out more
Forum sponsored by:
Forum sponsored by Forum House Ad Zone

Machining stainless steel

All Topics | Latest Posts

Search for:  in Thread Title in  
Mike Crossfield10/07/2017 18:04:30
286 forum posts
36 photos

Perhaps unwisely, I agreed to make a kitchen utensil for my sister in law. It's a potato masher - basically a disc with a pattern of slots, mounted on the end of a shaft with a handle on the other end. Yes, I know you can buy such things, but I'm tasked with copying the design of a much-loved tool which has finally expired, and which is no longer availed commercially

Anyway, I thought that stainless steel was the right material to use, so a rummage in the scrap bin brought a suitable sized piece of 2mm plate to the surface. Now, I have little experience of working with stainless, but my attempts to machine this plate have been less than satisfactory. After just 1 slot with a new 5 mm carbide slot drill running at 500rpm the cutter has lost its edge, and the slot is very ragged. I guess the problem is the material work hardening. Am I using an unsuitable grade of material, or is my technique wrong? Is there a free machining version of stainless sheet?

Tractor man10/07/2017 18:24:13
426 forum posts
1 photos
Buy her a potato ricer. Her mash will be better and her arms less tired.
Will never go back to a spud squasher.
Andrew Johnston10/07/2017 18:43:26
avatar
7061 forum posts
719 photos

It can depend on the grade. Can we assume that the stainless is austenitic, ie, 300 series? If that is the case then 303 machines well, and can be obtained in a free machining version. I've also found that 316 is straightforward, but 304 is horrid, and very difficult to get a good finish.

In terms of work hardening the key is to keep the cutter cutting! Feedrates need to be fairly agressive;and any hesitation and you're lost. With carbide tooling you may be able to recover, but HSS simply won't cut after the stainless has work hardened.

Andrew

Frances IoM10/07/2017 18:53:40
1395 forum posts
30 photos
the scrap bin at my metal suppliers often contains SS with 316 being by far the most common and is I think is that generally used in food handling - some end of bars are upto to 6" diameter and generally about 3-8mm thick - this can be worked in a small mill with HSS or carbide (it polishes up very well), drilled relatively easily with HSS-Co drills and smaller rods on the lathe turned with very sharp HSS tools but once workhardened very difficult to do much with unless you can get in at end and remove the hardened surface - the merchant uses a saw with copious coolant whilst cutting
Thor 🇳🇴10/07/2017 18:57:59
avatar
1766 forum posts
46 photos

Hi Mike,

Austenitic stainless steel isn't easy to machine. 500 RPM isn't very fast for a 5mm carbide slot drill, for carbide you run the slot drill faster. Have a look at the LMS calculator. You need to feed the slot drill, if it starts rubbing the material work hardens very fast. I usually drill a pilot hole at the start of the slot first.

Thor

Mike Crossfield10/07/2017 22:58:22
286 forum posts
36 photos

Thanks chaps.

Sounds as though I need to source a few square inches of 303 or 316 sheet, and run the mill a bit faster.

Mike

Tractor man11/07/2017 18:50:02
426 forum posts
1 photos
Mike I have a circular slug of stainless steel cut from a plate I used to make a chimney flue. It drills easily and is about 3mm thick. I'll take a snap and mail it you. It's about r inch sis I think. Might do the job. Mick
Dave Smith 1411/07/2017 19:21:53
222 forum posts
48 photos

I would cut my losses and get it laser cut.

Dave

Mike Crossfield12/07/2017 09:01:26
286 forum posts
36 photos

Tractor man, you have PM.

Mike

Circlip12/07/2017 10:01:29
1723 forum posts

316L and either punch the slots or get them waterjet cut.

Regards Ian.

Ady112/07/2017 11:21:38
avatar
6137 forum posts
893 photos

Looking at the profile I would guess that the heads of stainless potato mashers are produced on giant 200 plus ton stamping machines, not on a lathe/mill

MW12/07/2017 12:29:58
avatar
2052 forum posts
56 photos

If and likely this stuff is cold rolled, it is possible to anneal and stress relieve 304 by heating to around 1000C and quenching it very quickly, as is common to do with austenitic steels.

Michael W

All Topics | Latest Posts

Please login to post a reply.

Magazine Locator

Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!

Find Model Engineer & Model Engineers' Workshop

Sign up to our Newsletter

Sign up to our newsletter and get a free digital issue.

You can unsubscribe at anytime. View our privacy policy at www.mortons.co.uk/privacy

Latest Forum Posts
Support Our Partners
cowells
Sarik
MERIDIENNE EXHIBITIONS LTD
Subscription Offer

Latest "For Sale" Ads
Latest "Wanted" Ads
Get In Touch!

Do you want to contact the Model Engineer and Model Engineers' Workshop team?

You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.

Click THIS LINK for full contact details.

For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.

Digital Back Issues

Social Media online

'Like' us on Facebook
Follow us on Facebook

Follow us on Twitter
 Twitter Logo

Pin us on Pinterest

 

Donate

donate