Help from any Kennedy Hexacut Power Hacksaw owners out there?

Can someone please measure the diameter of large driven flat belt pulley and read off the motors rpm if legible? - I gather the motor's shaft was used directly as the driver pulley so I can measure that.

I'm over the moon to have picked up a model 60 (I guess) as I've been wanting one for years. Its missing its driven pulley, and needs a good strip and clean.

I've got a handful of Vee pulleys sitting about so I'd like to use these, however given that the original arrangement used the motor's spindle directly, to drive quite a large pulley, I think I'm going to struggle to get the reduction I need inside the standard guarding which I would like to try and retain because its quite nice!

In addition, the standard 1/6 horse motors are known to be feeble, so ideally, I'd like to achieve a slightly higher reduction than standard or run a lower speed motor which then gives me ample room under the standard guarding. If say the motor is a pretty standard 2 pole 2700-3000 rpm, I should be able to easily source a little 4 pole and halve the speeds.

I'd be grateful of any advice, tips, parts diagrams, manuals or a word from anyone who shares an interest in these.

All the best,

Russ

Hi Russ,

Motor RPM is 1425, large driven pulley is 149.05 mm and motor pulley is 20 mm in diameter.

I have some instructions in PDF I will try and send them via private message.

Sorry Russ can't see a way of attaching pdf files to PM 

Will try and create an album with them 

Sorry that failed, is it ok to include them in this posting, perhaps mods could advise.

HTH

Chris

Edited By Chris Shelton on 15/05/2017 14:38:01

Edited By Chris Shelton on 15/05/2017 14:47:04

As this question has been answered i will ask , i have a slipping belt on a model 60 is there any way to tension it .

Michael, I think the original belt was slightly elastic, I manage to find an automotive ribbed belt, which I turned inside out, and this has been working OK.

HTH

Chris

Chris / Michael

The automotive ribbed "serpentine" belts actually work better rib side down on flat belt pulleys rather than inverted. Ribs squidge a bit so there is some length tolerance.

The one we had at work used a Stephens Miraclo (spelling!) glass fibre backed leather belt which worked a treat for the 20 years i knew of it! Might have shut down by now tho'. Some of the plastic types may be OK but I know the yellow one supplied for my Clarkson grinder would be too stretchy.

Clive.

Edited By Clive Foster on 15/05/2017 16:30:21

Chris,

Thank you for taking the time to measure, I have sent you a private message with my email address.

Regarding belt tension, the holes for the motor are drilled, but I believe the whole machine is on slotted holes, so you can tension the belt this way.

Chris

Are your "Instructions in pdf" from the original 2-page description and general maintenance instructions?

If not I can send these to Russ, and yourself.  Will need email addresses, as this forum will not accept files in pdf format, only jpeg.

I have sent this pdf to so many people I have lost count. You can't beat spreading the word, even though it is a brief word.

Regarding tensioning the belt, this is done by loosening the two bolts on the base of the machine (at the front) and sliding the machine along slots in which the bolts run. As you need three hands to do this, I always use a short piece of wood (2" x 1/2" say and 12" long) placed between the motor and the machine to apply leverage and keep the machine in line with the motor. This way the belt can be stretched board tight, essential if it is an original type belt. The original belts were stretch-free. If the machine and motor are not lined up properly then it will throw off the belt.

Note that the motor drive is not just off the motor spindle, there is a small flat belt pulley.

Edited By Robbo on 15/05/2017 19:37:09

Hi Robbo,

Yes, Thank you that is the info I have, plus a sales leaflet describing the two models offered, one motorised and one without motor, having a V pulley fitted, instead of the flat pulley.

Might not be belt tension.

If it tends to stick and slip the belt and when you adjust the sliding hex sloppy it's OK then it's caused by a wear ridge in the main arm. You can stone off the first couple of mm or so front and back of the moving bit to dodge the ridges.

Just keep oiling it.

As I, too, have a Kennedy, could I be a cheeky bugger and ask if I could have a copy too.......pretty please .

Chris, thanks, pdf's received, ill print them out and have a good read through thanks!

Robbo, thanks for the input, very useful.

Dave Halford, a smart observation and a great tip, thanks, I'll be sure to keep that in mind when I'm looking over it initially - I feel some hand scraping might be in order any excuse!

David Standing, private message me your email address and I'll send you the PDF's - due to the recent swarm of viruses I suspect you'll find my email in your junk mail folder so be sure to check that out.

Russ

You have PM

Thanks

David

thanks everyone , i will try to tension the belt tomorrow

Had a better idea, have scanned the maintenance instructions as jpeg and put them in my albums, album called"Kennedy Hexacut No 6"

Now anyone can see them without emails. Here they are-

Thanks to Chris, Russ, and Robbo, I now also have a set of instructions to go with my Kennedy saw .

Thanks again, back up and cutting . Get the belt tight then tighter again,

Yes thanks again Chris, Russ & Robbo. I recently bought a 60. A lovely machine, so it's nice to find a set of instructions to go with it. Interesting that there's a 2BA threaded hole in the centre on the top of the slide's hex clamp block ( item B), which looks like it's for an oil cup. On the only other example I've seen, there's a threaded hole on each end which secures a pair of button felt oil pads, although they only wipe the clamp block surfaces, not the saw frame. No sign of these on the instructions, but a very worthwhile DIY improvement (or Kennedy upgrade).

The belt tension is a concern...it's so high to stop slip, but that puts an awful lot of load on the 2" long plain bushing, so just wondering has anyone done a 'timing belt' upgrade to a Hexacut? I suppose a poly vee belt would reduce the tension a little, but with so little wrap around contact on the motor pulley, would it make a worthwhile difference?

Interesting to note that that the already motorised version is flat belt and the non motorised version is Vee belt!. There must be a reason , supply of belts/pulleys etc.

I would suggest that the reason is to keep the portable powered machine as compact as possible.
To ensure a low enough reciprocating speed, with that larger pulley and a 1425 motor, one needs a tiny driving pulley, so only a flat belt was suitable at the time.
An unpowered saw could be powered via a reduction jackshaft running with two V belts.

Bill