Brammer belting

Hi Guys,

I purchased a couple of meters of this:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brammer-Type-Link-Belting-Section-13mm-Machine-Drive-Belt-Nut-Link-Style-Belt-/251903563785?hash=item3aa69f5809

for my Warco VMC - Feeling rather stupid, can anyone tell me how to split and reconnect, I've been fiddling around with it for a while now and cannot think of any to split it without using a knife! There must be some trick that I'm missing.

Thanks in advance

Don't the link steel bits twist and then you can slip the links off and then after reassembling twist them 90 degrees to lock?

Sorry just looked at the image you just bend the belting hard back on itself and the links separate...its quite hard to do this

Ian

That's NuTLink type belting

Dave

You push a link towards the next one (compress the belt) so the pin pushes through the split part into the hole, and twist the stud out of the hole.

My Dad showed me how to do this in circa 1966, so apologies if my memory is a bit hazy .

Thanks guys,

I shall have a play - the rivets seem to be quite tight, but then it is new belt, so it'll probably be a bit stiff

Many thanks for the replies - I shall report back

Dave,

The other Dave has the principle right, but with a new belt it is stiff and unyielding.

Try turning the belt "inside out", so the radius of the curve is on the inside, when the pin will naturally be nearer the slot. You may then be able to poke a blunt instrument into the resulting gap in front of the pin and push it along.

You will see that on the joining part of the link there are 3 holes with the belt slit between them. The problem is you need to get 2 pins into each link, as the links overlap by 3.

Put on some gloves and give the links a good wiggling about to soften them a bit. You may need to resort to clamping in a vice to give you 2 hands free.

Like riding a bike, (or folding a bandsaw blade) once you've done it it's easy!

For a new belt, I push a small flat screwdriver (2mm dia) through the belt to "Tyrelever" the joint apart. Same for putting it back again.
BobH

As BobH says a small screw driver is handy, once you get the hang of it, it's quite easy.

Ian S C

All done, thanks again guys

It's amazing how easy it is when you practice doing it - I feel a bit of a git now though

Cheers

Dave

No need to feel a "git" Dave.... The only git is the man who doesn't know the answer but refuses to ask for help!

Norman

If you go to the local museum and borrow a button hook. They are like a screw driver with a bent up three quarters of a circle on the end. You slip the end piece thorough one of the slits and hook the tool end around the stud below the slit, the turn the tool. Easier to actually do than to write about. We had lots of it for generators and compressors we also had Fenner belts as well. I think Brammer is or was made in Bradford and Fenner in Hull. John

A pair of 6" needle nose pliers can be usefull. The more modern types are a little easier, I use the stuff that has no rivets these days.

Ian S C

Are Brammer belts better than Powertwists from Fenner?

**LINK**

I'v used Brammer, NuTLink, and Powertwist in that order, and I think I would rate them in that order, Powertwist at the top. Having said that, the last lot of Powertwist I got was not by Fenner, and it took quite a while to bed in, and for the first few hours it would only transmit about half power, but it only cost about 1/3rd of the real stuff, and it's ok now.

Ian S C