Bandsaw Blade Pitch?

I have sorted out my Chinese bandsaw thanks to the masses of help that I had from you all. So many thanks!

I am currently using Starrett Blades and intend to change to the Lennox blades which someone said were even better!

I tend to use the same sort of pitch as on my hacksaw (from memory about 22 teeth per inch. A friend of mine said I should use much coarser blades (12 per inch or there about) . He argued that the clearance of swarf was the limitation and the coarser the better. I am dubious of this advice and can think of quite a few refutations. Is he correct?

Andrew.

I forgot to say that I mostly cut mild steel!

Andrew.

It depends on how thick the material is you are cutting, same as for a hand hacksaw. So minimum two teeth in the work.

Hello Andrew,

​Coarse teeth on a band saw, I use 10 tpi, but switch to 14 if cutting thin walled tubes. as Bazyle says, swarf clearance is the key, fine pitch band saw blades clog and will break.

​Bi metal blades are to be recommended, the life is much better as a result. Blade tension should be high, not to musical note level when twanged but at double bass levels.

Regards
Brian

Bandsaws that have a controlled bow descent can use quite coarse blades, we use 6/10 vari-pitch at work.

Martin

Sorry to elbow my way into this thread but as a newbie, can I ask if I can cut metal on a woodworking bandsaw? It's single speed and suppliers sell correct length blades of various kinds and various tpi, some of which are described as suitable for metal but I'm somewhat sceptical. Any thoughts / experience? I'm not thinking of cutting anything beyond thin-ish brass, aluminium, etc not thumping great lumps of steel.

If you are going for the Lennox blades, and in my book you can't do better then use the vari-pitch ones, 10/14 or 12/16 will be fine, not sure what choices you have in this range.

Edited By John Stevenson on 12/11/2016 20:12:26

Phil, I use my old Rexon BS to cut non ferrous now that I have a larger one for woodworking, use the same Starret bi metal blades that I did for wood and it copes well if a little noisily. This is a bit of 3" sq aluminium that I cut recently with a very acceptable cut.

Phil - I use a vertical woodwork bandsaw for cutting copper sheet, I opt for either 18 or 24 tpi and take it steady without issue so the anser is definately yes.

Result, Jason and Fizzy! Thanks - I'll order a fine tooth blade and give it a go.

I have just completed cutting some 1mm thick mild steel discs on my two wheel domestic bandsaw. I used 24 tpi Starret blades,and found the whole process relatively easy. However I have a problem regarding the discs in that I have to form a 5mm flange on the edge (as if it could be anywhere else). I can do this by marking the disc at 5/6mm distance and bending with pliers, or sticking a piece of curved metal in the vice and tapping with a hammer, Is there a better way ?,both of my ideas seem fairly crude !

..depends how many discs? I've been flanging my copper boiler parts with a hammer and former OK but if lots to do and worth the bother then I guess a pair of dies and press them..

I only have 6 to do, so a former and hammer seems the way to go. Would you heat the metal before beating it ?

Annealing copper is simply heat and chuck in water. Annealing steel is way slower so I'd try without.