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How can this piece be saved ?

Too much solder...again !

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Brian John22/06/2016 12:57:55
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I have used too much solder again and it has flowed through underneath the hot cap. I was almost going to bin it but thought I should ask first : is there any way to save this piece ? The cap end will not fit in my small lathe chuck ; it is just a bit too big. That would have been ideal because then I could have machined off that excess solder.

Is there some way to hold it by the stainless steel tube by making up some sort of clamp ?

Martin Connelly22/06/2016 18:15:44
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Can you carve the solder away with a craft knife?

Martin

JasonB22/06/2016 18:17:32
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Brian can you post a photo.

Is it soft or silver solder?

Bazyle22/06/2016 21:28:31
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Make a wood plate with a boss that you can grip in your chuck, then turn a recess in it that takes the tube tightly using light glue if necessary other wedging mechanism.

Brian John23/06/2016 02:01:41
1487 forum posts
582 photos

I did post a photo...it was there last night !

It is hard solder. It might be easier to bin it and make a new one but I am interested to know if this can be done.

hot cap 16.jpg

Edited By Brian John on 23/06/2016 02:03:38

Michael Gilligan23/06/2016 06:54:24
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Brian,

That looks simple enogh ...

Cut a vee grooove in a block of wood, for the piece to lay in; and get to work with some needle files. ... Finger pressure to hold it in the vee, and work steadily; rotating it a little, every few strokes of the file.

MichaelG.

Edited By Michael Gilligan on 23/06/2016 06:59:40

MW23/06/2016 07:11:28
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I reckon if you've got a long piece of studding and some wide flat washers you could tighten the whole thing up and that would allow you to put it in your drill chuck. You could use some really long coach bolts and the washers you can pick up from anywhere. 

Just get it to run fairly true and use a file and emery, doesn't matter if it's not 100%

Michael W

 

Edited By Michael Walters on 23/06/2016 07:14:43

JasonB23/06/2016 08:00:22
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Posted by Brian John on 22/06/2016 12:57:55:

The cap end will not fit in my small lathe chuck ; it is just a bit too big.

Brian I think you are refering to being able to put the whole tube into the chuck but the hole in the body is too small/short. You turned the endcap so it must fit in the jaws.

You can do it just by holding the small soldered on endcap. Make a stepped plug that is a good fit into the bore, the larger dia will stop it going in to far. Drill a ctr hole into the larger end of the plug.

No hold part by the usual jaws in the 3-jaw chuck, pop the plug into the open end, bring up the tailstock for support and now you can skim off the solder without ripping the work from the chuck. This will keep things as true as possible which is needed to stop the piston binding if things get out of line.

save part.jpg

Edited By JasonB on 23/06/2016 08:09:26

Edited By JasonB on 23/06/2016 08:10:26

Brian John23/06/2016 10:16:22
1487 forum posts
582 photos

Jason, I had something similar in mind (my idea was much more complicated) but I was not sure if it would work. I will give that a go tomorrow.

NOTE : I am not keen on filing it off by hand (yet), as that could damage the flat surface on the underside of the collar.

Michael W : what do you mean by ''studding'' ?

Edited By Brian John on 23/06/2016 10:17:37

Edited By Brian John on 23/06/2016 10:20:30

John Rudd23/06/2016 10:29:09
1479 forum posts
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Studding = threaded bar rod that has a thread running the full length.

Available at minimal cost at your local Screwfix or at extortionate prices at b n q......in various sizes......

JasonB23/06/2016 10:42:22
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Brian. I think Michael W's thought that the hole goes all the way through but as it is capped off the studding won't fit.

MW23/06/2016 11:10:38
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Yeah sorry, studding is a long threaded rod thats normally sold in D.I.Y places, like John pointed out. I didn't know that there was no thru-hole so you'd probably be better off going along with JasonB's solution.

If you ever get in a bind again with odd sized work pieces you can turn a mandrel (stepped shoulder or supporting cylinder) and use thread lock to set it in place and lightly turn the work piece down. To take it off again use a little heat from a blow lamp/propane torch and the whole assembly should come apart with a few calculated taps with a soft faced hammer (and rod if you need it), it's magic. You can clean off the residue with a light abrasive or a pipe cleaner.

Very useful technique for getting two diameters to be completely concentric to one another. I'm sure it's well known but i think i'll just rehearse it here so that i spread the word wink

Michael W

Edited By Michael Walters on 23/06/2016 11:13:50

Ian S C23/06/2016 12:19:42
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Studding is known as Allthread in Australia and New Zealand, and comes as plain steel, galvanised steel, and stainless steel. I think you can get it in brass also.  In NZ it comes in metric coarse, UNF& UNC.   Ian S C

Edited By Ian S C on 23/06/2016 12:21:29

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