0 morse taper

Sherline?

Part Number 11890 is 3/8-24 MT-0 . Costs about $10USD. I've been using mine with the decent little Jacobs chucks sold through Sherline and Taig. Another thought to keep total costs reasonable would be second hand Jacobs multi-craft chucks you're likely to come across at garage sales and the like. I've made a pusher to knock them apart from seized condition. Done a half dozen so far and only one's not playing along. Average cost has been about $2 bucks CDN. One of them is actually very true - as good as the one's sold through Sherline , etc. though I don't know how long it will last in that condition. I believe it is a "Sheffield" rather than a "Hartford" though to be honest I can't say that there is any difference amongst the rest of the lot.

Usual disclaimers,

Andrew Hutchinson

I think the Sherline products use a full 0 Morse taper. The picture shows a full 0 MT in a short 0 MT Flexispeed tailstock. Unfortinately rather too much overhang to be useful.

Cheers,

Rod

Edited By Roderick Jenkins on 28/04/2015 23:51:56

Ah, picture's worth a thousand words... I should have noted the OP was same as before. Best of luck in the search.

Cheers,

Andrew Hutchinson

Both the Cowells and the Sherline use half length 0MT tapers. The difference being that the Cowells use the thin end of the taper (from 6.4mm dia to 8mm dia) while the Sherline uses the fat end (from 8.1mm dia to 9.2mm dia). A full 0MT taper in the Cowells tailstock looks like Rod's photo.

Foe a drawing of the Sherline 0MT taper take a look at **LINK**

Blackcat,
take a look at RDG ebay 0MT arbour with 3/8 x 24 thread / 0MT 9.95 . The only shortcoming is if you rerequiring the thin end of 0MT. I did and had to taper turn the arbor between centres but it is soft and free cutting so a decent finish is no problem. 3/8 x 24 thread is standard for some small drill chucks in 1/4 6mm size. I got mine of an old Bridges pistol drill.

Bob D

Its centres that are hard, for obvious reasons. But arbours or arbors are soft, to do your own thing with them !

Bob D

Blackcat,

I use a Jacobs drill chuck with a 3/8 inch x 24 tpi thread mounted on a 0MT arbour on my small Cowells lathe and I'm very happy with it..

However can I suggest that if using a commercially produced arbour requires you to re-cut the taper (so that the threaded end is close to the that part of the taper which fits into the tailstock) then don't bother. Assuming you don't have a taper turning attachment, the difficult part of the job is setting the lathe up to cut a well fitting taper (not so much difficult as fiddly trial and error requiring a lot of patience). Having put the effort in to cut a good fitting taper then I'd make my own arbours, in fact I'd make a lot from 5/8 and 3/4 dia steel bar (or whatever meets your needs). I'd also make some from smaller diameter silver steel for future use as extra centres.

The total cost of the material, plus the cost of a 3/8 inch x 24 tpi die, will be about the same as the commercially produced arbour.

What lathe do you have?

Steve

I have a Perris lathe which takes the same tooling as the Cowells. I made my own tapers, but used my Myford to do so. I have a regular length 0MT dead centre which I use as a reference to set the topslide angle with a dial gauge. Not too difficult, and once I got it right I turned loads of blanks for the Perris (thin end) and my Sherline (fat end) some in mild steel and some in silver steel.

Pete

I've never been really happy with those 3/8-24 threaded chucks. There seems to be no provision for maintaining any kind of concentricity other than the thread itself. OK perhaps for hand-held drills but for machine use I prefer a JT.

I've never been really happy with those 3/8-24 threaded chucks.

I have a smashing 1/4" capacity Jacobs one and it has ~3/16" deep counterbored register before the thread so I turned a mandrel to match on an MT2 arbor and it works loverly.

Neil