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Brian's 1" Minnie Traction Engine

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Brian Abbott15/07/2016 12:49:31
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523 forum posts
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Ok,

Thanks Jason.

Brian Abbott16/07/2016 21:53:20
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523 forum posts
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Hello.

1" Minnie water gauge issues

I have been looking for a piece of 3/16 water gauge tube but only seem to be able to get 5mm

If I drill through the top fitting to clear the 5mm tube, say 5.1mm this will be to big for the 7/32x40 tapped hole for the blanking plug, should I look at using a 1/4x40 instead ?

Thanks for any thoughts.

JasonB17/07/2016 20:21:44
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I think thats about all that can be done, should be enough meat there to take the 1/4" thread

Brian Abbott08/08/2016 12:44:54
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523 forum posts
95 photos

Hello all.

Jason, did you happen to take any in progress photos when you where machining your cylinder casting on the 1" minnie ?

I am after some inspiration on how to go about machining it.

Thanks.

JasonB08/08/2016 13:08:24
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25215 forum posts
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Afraid not brian, it was long before the digital age. I just had the photos and descriptions in Mason's book to go by.

Brian Abbott08/08/2016 16:09:54
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523 forum posts
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Ok, thanks Jason.

Bit worried because the casting seems to have a taper down the one side, not sure if i should try and machine the radius.

img_4147.jpg

JasonB08/08/2016 16:15:16
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25215 forum posts
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I ended up machining every surface of mine. Leave the outside until later then you van mount it on a simple arbor and take a few passes over teh curve to tidy it up.

Is your casting just the cylinder block without the saddle?

Brian Abbott08/08/2016 16:31:28
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523 forum posts
95 photos

Hello.

Yes its got the saddle on, its not a very clear picture sorry,

as you say i will machine the 2 bores, then try and true the rest up to it.

Thanks.

Maurice08/08/2016 16:41:59
469 forum posts
50 photos

Hi Brian, just measured the gauge glass on my Stuart fitting, its slightly under 3/16" dia. Stuarts list 3/16" gauge glass, 2 off 3" pieces for about £4.50

Maurice

Richard S208/08/2016 17:39:34
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237 forum posts
135 photos

Hello Brian, I'm sure the Cylinder casting has plenty of spare 'Meat', so don't be worried about the taper.

If you first measure up the smaller end and set up to start machining that smaller face and then the bore, you will be ok.

I think I have a few pics that may help later, but like Jason, they were before Digital and the WWW !. I'll dig them out and scan them for you if it will help.

Regards

Brian Abbott08/08/2016 22:03:36
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523 forum posts
95 photos

Hi Maurice, thanks for the info, yes i got some in the end from Stuarts.

Richard, if you would not mind scanning them for me when you get a chance i think it would help me.

Thanks all.

mal webber08/08/2016 23:19:37
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154 forum posts
309 photos

Hi Brian, there is a build log of a 1" minnie on Traction Talk and the cylinder seems to be the latest couple of posts. hope this helps.

 

Mal.

Edited By mal webber on 08/08/2016 23:21:39

julian atkins08/08/2016 23:28:02
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1285 forum posts
353 photos

Hi Brian,

I have a large quantity of gauge glass. If you know exactly what size you require I am sure I can find a length that suits.

Cheers,

Julian

Richard S209/08/2016 01:06:10
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237 forum posts
135 photos
Posted by Brian Abbott on 08/08/2016 22:03:36:

Richard, if you would not mind scanning them for me when you get a chance i think it would help me.

Ok, found 2 pics that may help, sorry about quality. Don't know your equipment stock levels, but the pics should be self-explanatory....if not-

I used the Vertical Slide for most of the faces, including fly cutting the saddle underside using a 1. 3/8" dia boring bar between centres.

In this pic, you can see the thickness of the Saddle face is also tapered (top face not yet machined). Taper is there for a reason and built into the Pattern for retraction from the casting mould.

cyl machining.jpg

I used a 4" Rotary Table to machine the top faces of the Saddle (and drill the bolt holes). In this pic the Cylinder is bolted to a slice of machined-to-size Aluminium Bar rather than Mr Mason's method.

Set ups may be crude in workshop procedures, but all went fine and accurate for me... being a Dabbling Novice.

Hope this helps. Regards.

Richard S209/08/2016 01:10:11
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237 forum posts
135 photos

Sorry , forgot the other picblush. Not used to no Preview facility....cyl machining 2.jpg

Brian Abbott09/08/2016 16:24:26
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523 forum posts
95 photos

Hello all.

Thanks for the info, found the build on the traction talk website,

Photos are great Richard, looks like i need to machine the casting all over so the run out should not be a problem so long as there is plenty to clean up.

Julian. i managed to get some 3/16 from Stuarts so i should be ok, but thanks for the offer.

Cheers.

Brian Abbott19/09/2016 16:40:54
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523 forum posts
95 photos

Hello all.

After some more advice please.

In the process of making the water gauge ( still ) and i need to make some washers just to allow me to nip up the fitting at the correct angle.

Should i make these from copper or would aluminium be ok ?

Thanks.

Mark P.19/09/2016 16:59:11
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634 forum posts
9 photos
Hi Brian, personally I would use copper washers as spacers.
Regards Mark P.
Brian Abbott03/11/2016 16:45:44
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523 forum posts
95 photos

Hello All.

Can i please ask some advice regarding the positioning of the tender on my 1" Minnie.

Should i.

Position the bottom edge of the strengthening plate level with the bottom edge of the horn plate and spot the holes through.

Then position the top edge of the strengthening plate level with the top edge of the tender side and spot through ?

Thanks for any help.

JasonB03/11/2016 17:11:15
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25215 forum posts
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Can't remember how I did mine but probably as per the book which says mark both out from the hornplates.

So I would do as you say for the strengthening plates and while they are against the hornplates mark their top and front edges on the hornplates.

Then slip the tender over the hornplate and position it to these lines and then mark it from the holes in teh hornplates.

With both the strengthening plates and tender drilled the draw strap is clamped between the two and marked out.

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