2 inch face mill problems

Both from Cutwel as they sell individuals, did not want a box if things were not going to work.

Funny enough Murray that is the exact insert that I ordered but got the ones shown in my photo. Now you have confirmed they should look like that and it was not a generic photo I may e-mail them to check. looks a lot mor elike this one from APT

Edited By JasonB on 10/05/2018 07:49:42

Jason,

Those ones in the picture from APT are identical to the ones I have for aluminium.

Paul

I haven't ever bought Korloy APKT H01 - only Mitsubishi from what I can see. However, looking at the Korloy milling insert catalogue (page 5), it seems the APKT comes in a whole range of weird and wonderful chipbreakers and materials. Yours is the "APKT MA" version, it seems. At least it seems to work well...

There's a whole world of inserts out there that leave most of us lost! We have only scratched the surface.

Murray

Just heard back from Cutwel and it seems the image on the website is wrong, they will change it to the correct image which from Murray's link is the MA but the photo shows probably the MA2 or MA3.

As Muzzer says it is the letters after the basic shape, size and corner radius that can make all the difference and often not shown from the cheaper suppliers and seldom mentioned when someone says a certain tip works for them. Not helped by the fact these letters and numbers are manufacturer specific rather than standard across the lot. On our hobby machines the finer differences will not really come into it but a "sharp" cutter can make all the difference as these few videos have hopefully shown, bit like using a**GT insert on a light weight lathe that would otherwise not take well to the use of carbide.

Infact there is a whole world of everything out there, I got a 2" high pile of cataloges with the order and that was just measuring, milling and machine accessories.

In conclusion, then, it's highly probable that, if other causes have been eliminated and the finish from these Bang good style cutters is still inadequate, then different inserts should be investigated before condemning the cutter as rubbish. That is good to hear, but doesn't help those who've found the taper on the mandrel to be wrong.

What has surprised me,though, is their sensitivity to insert geometry. It is much more sensitive than lathe tools seem to be.

Regards

Richard.

if its rocking. Is it rocking on the face you have cut beacuse steps of differant hieght in the cut face. Sometimes the mill may not be inserted and secured properly and may be dropping lock the vertical hieght on each pass if you have the option. check your fixing of the part your milling. Its easy to get swarf under it and or bolting is not holding t down flush with the mill bed. Have only used flueted mills not inserts and generlly if its a large area a bigger mill will git better than small one as it will not require so many steps. Finally how much are you cutting on each pass .

M.

Cricky how much are you tring to cut. i would try half that and a smaller mill bit . I dont think your machine is big enough to support what you are doing. That looks like an inch bit and you are trying to cut complete inch in one pass.?

When I have been milling I use less than a 1/2 fluted mill on a big very heavy old friends machine that doesnt move when you cut . This smaller mills are not so solid,

M

Martin, try reading the rest of the post, the mill easily coped when I used different inserts. Also read the title of the thread, it's a 50mm face cutter not a 1" bit

Also half of which cut the 0.1mm DOC or the 1.0mm DOC?

Edited By JasonB on 14/05/2018 07:30:25

Jason thats a 1.9" dia cutter the vid you posted was using whole bit . As I said on my m8s rigid dinosur mill which is so solid it ways several tons I only use a 1/2 fluted mill tool on this using half the cutter. It doesnt need a dro as it doesnt flex. The video also showed no use of cutting fluid or oil or coolant / lubricant. If your DRO is not reading zero then your head is flexing and if its alternating then you are not cutting evenly . Some metals have had spots in them . This is worse in alloys .

Just saying as I dont use inserts as they overheat without coolent and then distemper or blunt which happens for me. I have just installed coolent on lathe and am not sure i would still use inserts.

M

Martin, I'll say it once again Read the rest of the thread.

-I know what size cutter I'm using it was you that said it looked like a 1" cutter. 50mm cutter on 45mm wide work is not using the full width of the cutter.

-That is cast iron I'm cutting don't know of anyone who would suggest using cutting fluid on that.

-DRO has nothing to do with flex but does come in handy to eliminate the need for compensating for backlash.

Why not watch the other video I posted in the thread which you have obviously not done. CI first cut dry 45mm wide 1mm DOC, then steel with a little soluable oil 32mm wide 1mm DOC then aluminium with some paraffin 45mm wide 1mm DOC faster feed. All cutting well with no flexing as the tips were a better quality and geometry than the cheap Bangood ones.

You will notice that the chips from the steel are coming off blue, the suds really is not doing anything and may as well not have been used, this shows the tip is working right. Your loose wobbly chuck is most likely what is damaging inserts as well as pussy footing about with them.

Edited By JasonB on 14/05/2018 20:35:55

Totally agree with Muzzer and Jason been there done it until tried APHT, though would want coated for steels.

To give you some idea some years back we couldnt get the bearings out of a Skoda hub, think GEN2?. The only tools had to hand were those WHT APHT meant for aluminium plunged down broke through cage, hardened steel bearings (2), cage another row of cage, hardened steel bearing and cage.
Dont get me wrong the tips were really shot after first row.

As a compare quality non chinese carbide Garr 1/2 the dia totally gone and only just marked the outer cage and they are a brilliant cutter for normal use and last.

In saying that the tips were not happy opening out much softer hardened tool holders to accept larger tooling had to use the Seco MM16-16019-A30-E06 and you dont want to know the price.

Lots to think about here as someone who has just bought a Banggood facemill with 'blue nano' cutters but not tried it yet.

Meanwhile, slightly off-topic but Jason that is a beautiful piece of machining.

gary

Edited By gary.a.ayres on 09/09/2018 01:16:17