Michael Gilligan | 23/02/2015 22:40:43 |
![]() 23121 forum posts 1360 photos | For reference: Here is a typical 1" bore taper roller bearing. Outer diameter is too large ... although I believe there are also 'slim' versions available for things like motorcyle headtocks, so all may not be lost. Alternatively, consider my Plan_B instead. MichaelG. |
Graeme Whitfield | 23/02/2015 22:50:10 |
![]() 51 forum posts 13 photos | Ill be honest, I skimmed the link, but seems very little preload needed on taper bearing then. |
Michael Gilligan | 23/02/2015 22:53:23 |
![]() 23121 forum posts 1360 photos | Graeme, Our last posts crossed in the æther If the bore is as good as you think, then please ignore my previous suggestions ... it should be quite possible to plate and grind the spindle. MichaelG. |
Graeme Whitfield | 23/02/2015 22:54:24 |
![]() 51 forum posts 13 photos | I looked earlier and normal 1" imternal are all near 2" external. I did briefly look at cycle headsets. The tapers in them are tiny and 1" in a steerer dimension. Motorcycle ones are standard, I have them in all my motorbikes. I thought cycle ones might be too light duty though but maybe not if they dont need much preload. Might be easier all round to just fix this spindle though. Edited By Graeme Whitfield on 23/02/2015 22:55:12 |
blowlamp | 23/02/2015 22:57:04 |
![]() 1885 forum posts 111 photos | Posted by Michael Gilligan on 23/02/2015 22:10:41:
Posted by blowlamp on 23/02/2015 21:59:26:
I don't think I would personally consider a taper-roller bearing conversion with that design of headstock because there is no bracing between the bearing stanchions to take the necessary preload. I'm pretty sure those supports would close up when loaded and pull them out of alignment. . Martin [and anyone else interested] How much preload do you really need on the bearing in a small headstock? I suspect that even with no preload, the result would be better than the original arrangment. MichaelG. . Edit: I just found this, which is encouraging. Edited By Michael Gilligan on 23/02/2015 22:23:15 I don't think it would need a heavy preload, but I do think it's important for the headstock housing to be stable & rigid to resist loading which would now be borne mainly by the front bearing. I just wonder if that design could possibly move far enough under load to allow the rear bearing to 'disconnect' from its race. Most taper bearing assemblies are within tubular or box shaped housings for rigidity I think.
Martin. |
Graeme Whitfield | 23/02/2015 23:02:16 |
![]() 51 forum posts 13 photos | Here is the spindle, its just the larger area that is worn. Options are, try and make a new one. Get it ground and plated. Get it turned down and sleeved. I have no idea, but my gut feeling is sleeved would be cheaper to get done than plated? |
Michael Gilligan | 23/02/2015 23:12:45 |
![]() 23121 forum posts 1360 photos | Posted by Graeme Whitfield on 23/02/2015 22:54:24:
Motorcycle ones are standard, I have them in all my motorbikes. . This style is usefully a litle smaller. But re-working the spindle definitely looks like the easy option. MichaelG. Edited By Michael Gilligan on 23/02/2015 23:13:53 |
Graeme Whitfield | 23/02/2015 23:30:15 |
![]() 51 forum posts 13 photos | Cant add a link, but bicycle ones in 40mm internal are only 52mm external and 7mm wide.
|
Graeme Whitfield | 24/02/2015 15:55:48 |
![]() 51 forum posts 13 photos | Been to see a few pro's, they all said boring it isnt a good idea. They all said just grind, plate and re grind the spindle. Been quoted ?115-?130 from one company an ive another to go see. No one seems to think sleeving the spindle is a good idea either. |
Bikepete | 24/02/2015 16:55:36 |
250 forum posts 34 photos | Posted by blowlamp on 23/02/2015 22:57:04:
Posted by Michael Gilligan on 23/02/2015 22:10:41:
Posted by blowlamp on 23/02/2015 21:59:26:
I don't think I would personally consider a taper-roller bearing conversion with that design of headstock because there is no bracing between the bearing stanchions to take the necessary preload. I'm pretty sure those supports would close up when loaded and pull them out of alignment. . Martin [and anyone else interested] How much preload do you really need on the bearing in a small headstock? I suspect that even with no preload, the result would be better than the original arrangment. MichaelG. . Edit: I just found this, which is encouraging. Edited By Michael Gilligan on 23/02/2015 22:23:15 I don't think it would need a heavy preload, but I do think it's important for the headstock housing to be stable & rigid to resist loading which would now be borne mainly by the front bearing. I just wonder if that design could possibly move far enough under load to allow the rear bearing to 'disconnect' from its race. Most taper bearing assemblies are within tubular or box shaped housings for rigidity I think.
Martin. It's probably all moot anyway if going the plate/grind route, but if considering rolling bearings, is there a reason the preload must necessarily 'bridge' the two headstock ends? Far better surely to have two bearings in the 'working' end back to back, preloaded against each other, plus a 'floating' bearing at the other end. Rather as per Figure 2 here. Edited By Bikepete on 24/02/2015 16:55:58 |
blowlamp | 24/02/2015 18:49:19 |
![]() 1885 forum posts 111 photos | Posted by Bikepete on 24/02/2015 16:55:36:
Posted by blowlamp on 23/02/2015 22:57:04:
Posted by Michael Gilligan on 23/02/2015 22:10:41:
Posted by blowlamp on 23/02/2015 21:59:26:
I don't think I would personally consider a taper-roller bearing conversion with that design of headstock because there is no bracing between the bearing stanchions to take the necessary preload. I'm pretty sure those supports would close up when loaded and pull them out of alignment. . Martin [and anyone else interested] How much preload do you really need on the bearing in a small headstock? I suspect that even with no preload, the result would be better than the original arrangment. MichaelG. . Edit: I just found this, which is encouraging. Edited By Michael Gilligan on 23/02/2015 22:23:15 I don't think it would need a heavy preload, but I do think it's important for the headstock housing to be stable & rigid to resist loading which would now be borne mainly by the front bearing. I just wonder if that design could possibly move far enough under load to allow the rear bearing to 'disconnect' from its race. Most taper bearing assemblies are within tubular or box shaped housings for rigidity I think.
Martin. It's probably all moot anyway if going the plate/grind route, but if considering rolling bearings, is there a reason the preload must necessarily 'bridge' the two headstock ends? Far better surely to have two bearings in the 'working' end back to back, preloaded against each other, plus a 'floating' bearing at the other end. Rather as per Figure 2 here. Edited By Bikepete on 24/02/2015 16:55:58 It doesn't look like there is an easy way to accommodate adjustment of preload in the OPs Drummond lathe by using design No2 of your link, but I thought something similar to design No4 would have been the most likely candidate to stand a chance of success given the existing layout.
Martin. |
Hans | 24/02/2015 19:06:54 |
7 forum posts | That is a lovely little lathe and I think worth the effort to bring her back to life. I would have the spindle machined/plated/ground or see if there are any local machine shops that have thermal metal spraying capability such as High Velocity Oxygen Fuel. It can often be less expensive than chroming. I would then have the head stock line-bored for the appropriate bushings instead of tapered roller bearings. Hans |
Graeme Whitfield | 24/02/2015 19:43:37 |
![]() 51 forum posts 13 photos | Nice link. I can see how 4 would work. If I find another headstock I think that would be worth a try. |
Neil Wyatt | 25/02/2015 10:53:55 |
![]() 19226 forum posts 749 photos 86 articles | Fig. 4 is the bearing arrangement on many small lathes, notable mini lathes and on the X-series mills. Taper rollers typically need very little preload. Neil |
Ray Lyons | 25/02/2015 11:24:07 |
200 forum posts 1 photos | At least you have got a sprindle and bearings. My first lathe, a very old Drummond, came with the bare headstock, the seller saying that it would be an easy task for a professional turner to make and fit the missing bits. Anyway, I made them myself. I will not go into detail but the bearings were tapered in the headstock and as I did not have any bronze of a suitable diameter, these were turned from steel and bored out to take bronze sleeves. These were shrink fitted and reamed before splitting. This setup lasted me for many years and was a great introduction to the hobby. Your lathe looks great and I hope you have as much joy as I had with your first projects. |
Graeme Whitfield | 25/02/2015 12:28:02 |
![]() 51 forum posts 13 photos | Im sure I will ![]() I went to second precision grinders today, one of tje many benefits of being in sheffield is there are LOTS of engineering firms, they were friendly and knowledgable. Quoted me ?60 so I left it with them. I think they took pity on me ![]() Left them the headstock too do they can fit the spindle to the bore. while its away ill shim the leadscrew as it has a bit of endfloat. I also have a bit of backlash in the nuts so might make some heat molded delrin nuts. The bed had obviously haf attention as its in great condition. Will be nice when its all done. Only thing to decide on now is whether to repaint it and polish up all the steel bits. If it was original paint there is no way id mess with it, but it isnt (painted very well though). |
Hans | 25/02/2015 14:09:49 |
7 forum posts | Graeme, Are they going to bore the headstock for some bushings? By all means polish the steel and iron surfaces that are intended to be left bare... and if it were me.... I would paint it black as that is the fitting colour for this era. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gs1SOu7APnU Hans |
Graeme Whitfield | 25/02/2015 14:19:37 |
![]() 51 forum posts 13 photos | If I paint it, it will be black ![]() No-one wants to go anywhere near boring the headstock. They all told me its likely to go wrong and end up worse. I think there concerned about the size (so small) and the split in the casting. It seems to be round, and parallel, and the right size, just a bit scored. None of the pro's seemed concerned about the bore at all. Would be nice to have new, proper, bushes, all fresh and perfect to the spindle, but I need to be sensible about how much money I throw at it. Hopefully the (surprisingly cheap) spindle repair will remove the play and it can go on for another 113 years! As for the bare surfaces, any tips on clean up? I normaly remove rust with vinegar and clean smooth metal with 0000 wire wool and a bit of oil. Maybe a bit of brass wire brushing. I never really have to worry much about removing metal though. Whats the 'standard' technique? |
Michael Gilligan | 25/02/2015 14:39:50 |
![]() 23121 forum posts 1360 photos | Posted by Graeme Whitfield on 25/02/2015 12:28:02:
I went to second precision grinders today, one of tje many benefits of being in sheffield is there are LOTS of engineering firms, they were friendly and knowledgable. Quoted me ?60 so I left it with them. I think they took pity on me ![]() Left them the headstock too do they can fit the spindle to the bore. . Excellent news, Graeme MichaelG. . P.S. "I think they took pity on me" ... Did you take that dog do the soft-eyed look for you ? Edited By Michael Gilligan on 25/02/2015 14:44:20 |
Graeme Whitfield | 25/02/2015 14:55:18 |
![]() 51 forum posts 13 photos | No, should have, might have got another ?10 off ![]() I think they just find this little headstock funny! First place had 2 broaching machines? Like a drill or mill which doesnt spin. Both were about 12' high with 5' diamater rotary tables. The cast iron upright colums were about 5' x 4' square box. They said they thought my headstock would be like their little lathe which was about 8' long. edit... they were slotting machines. Edited By Graeme Whitfield on 25/02/2015 14:58:12 |
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