Here is a list of all the postings Hans has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Thread: How Do You Measure Your Holes? |
13/12/2016 14:10:02 |
I use a Starrett 269a taper gauge for holes from 0.100" - 0.500", and drill bits for holes smaller than 0.100" ~Hans |
Thread: What book would be most useful to you? |
09/03/2015 14:07:58 |
I would love to see Jürgen Eichardt’s books translated into English. Every one of his books is a treasure trove for anyone interested in model engineering. The drawings are highly detailed. The photographs and other illustrations are excellent. The layout is quite professional and pleasing. All of the books are around 150 pages long. https://translate.google.com/translate?depth=1&hl=en&ie=UTF8&prev=_t&rurl=translate.google.com&sl=de&tl=en&u=http://www.ship-model-today.de/index.htm (http://www.ship-model-today.de/buecher.htm) You might contact his publisher Verlag (www.vth.de) and see if you can’t work out an agreement. Hans |
Thread: making new lathe spindle |
26/02/2015 14:30:12 |
Graeme, Once the shaft is brought back to size, it should serve you well within its size limitations. It will likely present a challenge whilst parting, but even George Thomas discussed his difficulties parting with the Drummond. And if it were on my side of the Pond, I would scoop it up in a heart-beat for what you will have in it, particularly because you have many of the original accessories. I am glad that someone is bringing her back to life. Hans |
25/02/2015 15:37:55 |
Graeme, That is a beautiful vintage bench drill. Love the cast spindle cover. Living in the Colonies, I am not familiar with that manufacturer. Hans |
25/02/2015 15:08:01 |
Graeme, 0000 wool on the critical registering surfaces will be safe. The goal is to only remove the oxidation. Handles, fitments, and other non-critical surfaces can polished with a bit more aggressive sandpaper grits in succession (600->1000->1500) before final polishing assuming they are not chromed...as none appear to be. Another approach that I have used that looks nice on vintage machinery of this era is to strip off the remaining paint with safe chemical strippers, rinse and dry, and then apply/buff stove black polish to the cast iron surfaces that would have been originally painted. It gives the cast iron a warm, uniform darker color to contrast with the machined surfaces. It is not as rust-resistant as paint of course, but any future oxidation can be removed with steel wool and another dab of stove black applied and polished. https://www.lehmans.com/p-2830-stove-black-and-polish.aspx Hans |
25/02/2015 14:09:49 |
Graeme, Are they going to bore the headstock for some bushings? By all means polish the steel and iron surfaces that are intended to be left bare... and if it were me.... I would paint it black as that is the fitting colour for this era. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gs1SOu7APnU Hans |
24/02/2015 19:06:54 |
That is a lovely little lathe and I think worth the effort to bring her back to life. I would have the spindle machined/plated/ground or see if there are any local machine shops that have thermal metal spraying capability such as High Velocity Oxygen Fuel. It can often be less expensive than chroming. I would then have the head stock line-bored for the appropriate bushings instead of tapered roller bearings. Hans |
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
Sign up to our newsletter and get a free digital issue.
You can unsubscribe at anytime. View our privacy policy at www.mortons.co.uk/privacy
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.