Advice
IanT | 11/03/2014 09:47:06 |
2147 forum posts 222 photos | It wasn't really practical Neil and I was going to motorise my (hand cranked) Rollo as it is quite a sturdy little machine. It would be quite easy to put a pulley on the spindle rear end but mine also had a degree of wear in the headstock. As there is no way to make any headstock adjustment (the cast iron bearings are not split) it really would have needed a new spindle and possibly boring out - back to round. Mine is on permanent 'loan' to a friend who uses it for various manual operations on small brass fittings that he repairs ("remakes"?) for musical instruments. I know he's modified it to suit his needs (he's a very skilled mechanic/craftsman) but I don't know any specifics. He seems happy enough with it though. So it's found a good home and is being used, which is all any old tool wants. So I guess it's happy too! Regards, IanT |
ryan burton | 17/03/2014 23:48:07 |
2 forum posts | Hi, I bought the Rollo elf from ebay recently and came across this thread whilst trying to find some more info on the lathe. I am a split cane rodmaker and have bought the lathe to try to learn to make some basic components for my rods. I am a novice when it comes to lathes so if anyone has any tips they can pass on I would be greatful thanks Ryan |
Michael Gilligan | 18/03/2014 08:58:29 |
![]() 23121 forum posts 1360 photos | Welcome, Ryan Could you maybe start an Album here, with some picture of you Rollo Elf ... I'm sure that some of us would find it of interest. Thanks MichaelG. . P.S. ... For Neil [re: Hub Gears] here is an article about the workings of a Shimano Nexus hub. |
ryan burton | 19/03/2014 08:47:50 |
2 forum posts | Thanks for the welcome! im not too sure how to post pictures on this forum, but will try later. I fitted the lathe to a worktop when I got it, so I could connect the motor to check it works. there were a few problems! The original tool post is missing, but a perfectly adequate replacement had been made. also there are a few missing parts for the screw cutting facility, but I have no plans to use this so am not too worried! The main problem however was that the lathe did not run true, at all.! I took it in to work ( I rent a workshop from an engineer) and measured the run out at about 0.040! I feared the worst at this point, but after being shown how to adjust the chuck on the backplate, within 10 minutes that had been reduced to 0.0015, which I am told is very good with the 3 jaw chuck! I must say I am very pleased with thios little lathe. I love the fact it is old and british made, and am looking forward to learning how to use it properly! |
Michael Gilligan | 19/03/2014 09:09:55 |
![]() 23121 forum posts 1360 photos | Posted by ryan burton on 19/03/2014 08:47:50:
im not too sure how to post pictures on this forum, but will try later. . Well done, Ryan ... it sounds like you are doing a great job so far. Posting pictures here is rather a roundabout process, but it does work.
MichaelG. |
Russ B | 19/03/2014 09:40:27 |
635 forum posts 34 photos | Sounds really good Ryan, good luck with it! If you need any parts measuring up for the screw cutting facility let me know - I think I've got just about all the gears and shafts etc. Regarding the spindle taper, I roughly measured it...... with pin gauges...... aka drill bits reversed...... It appears to be MT0 and I'm confident enough to buy one to blue & try, so I'll let you know. The only thing I'm unsure of - is that the mouth of the taper is not 9.045 which it should be for MT0 but having thought about this I guess with the faceplate installed the centre would be hidden with it being so small, thus it may would want to sit proud so maybe this is correct, I'll let you know |
Russ B | 24/03/2014 18:07:09 |
635 forum posts 34 photos | It's most certainly not MT0 lol it hangs out 1/2 of its depth - I'm not sure what I measured..... I blued the taper and it just had a ring around it roughly 2/3rd of the way up, there was a step inside the mouth and it clearly just sat in it, so a morse taper is to steep - maybe it just doesn't have a taper Back to the drawing board... |
anthony bryant | 29/11/2014 11:29:08 |
5 forum posts | I bought another Rollo Elf as it came with two chucks (5/8 BSF). I am sure that the Elf was designed to fit Brown & Sharp No I or 2 ,tapped tools .The tool post has a slot for round tools, which is tapered |
Ian S C | 30/11/2014 08:28:02 |
![]() 7468 forum posts 230 photos | On the Lathes site it says that although they had come across one with MT1 taper, they could not identify most of them, could it be a Brown & Sharp taper? |
Michael Gilligan | 30/11/2014 08:43:08 |
![]() 23121 forum posts 1360 photos | It may also so be worth checking against Jarno Taper, which was fairly common once-upon-a-time. ... Useful reference table here listing various tapers. I would be tempted to cast a plug [probably in Wax] from the taper socket ... it's much easier to measure. MichaelG. Edited By Michael Gilligan on 30/11/2014 08:44:06 |
anthony bryant | 30/11/2014 09:54:10 |
5 forum posts | Good idea ; I will try to cast a plug today.. |
anthony bryant | 30/11/2014 16:57:11 |
5 forum posts | I have had a senior moment ! My second (electric motor) Elf has a round not flat bed. The slot for round tools in the tool post is not tapered (8mm ID) ,on the flat bed hand cranked Elf. but might be on my other one , a 8mm drill will only fit one way; when I have drilled out the broken retaining bolt I will be able to tell |
Ian S C | 01/12/2014 09:38:02 |
![]() 7468 forum posts 230 photos | I think you'll find that the hole in the tool post on the flat bed lathe is Brown & Sharp taper. Ian S C |
anthony bryant | 01/12/2014 18:52:35 |
5 forum posts | The 8 mm drill is a tight fit which fits the tool post hole at each end equally well. but on the round bed Elf only on one side. |
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