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Another broken tap thread

Frustration beyond belief

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Gone Away26/01/2012 15:00:46
829 forum posts
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Harold
 
Do you have similar charts for dies anywhere on the site? Giving engagement vs turned diameter I mean.
 
I always felt that the charts in TC's book were over-biased towards taps in that respect with no corresponding charts for dies.
David Littlewood26/01/2012 16:31:52
533 forum posts
Sid,
 
Not quite sure why you want a chart for dies. The stress on them is negligible compared with that on taps. Just use nominal diameter. You can use a diameter slightly less than nominal if necessary for very lightly stressed uses, but there is little need normally.
 
It can be helpful to turn a bevel or a short length of reduced diameter to help get the die started. Personally I dislike cutting male threads with dies; I often cut them most of the way by screwcutting and finish with a die to get the correct form.
 
Interestingly, one of the things which gets overlooked when people discuss tapping drill sizes for ISO metric threads is that the tap has a "diameter" (i.e. the smallest circle it will fit in) which is larger than nominal; there is a significant relief space at the bottom of the female thread.
 
David

Edited By David Littlewood on 26/01/2012 16:32:59

colin hawes26/01/2012 17:46:48
570 forum posts
18 photos
Has anyone tried to grind out a broken tap with a Dremmel-type grinder?This tap seems big enough; at least it could produce a dimple to start acarbide drill.Before we had carbide drills stellite was used to drill through any hard steel even hss.
Colin
Gone Away26/01/2012 18:16:04
829 forum posts
1 photos
Posted by David Littlewood on 26/01/2012 16:31:52:

Not quite sure why you want a chart for dies. The stress on them is negligible compared with that on taps. Just use nominal diameter.

Two reasons (for using lower than nominal part dia):
 
1. For larger tap sizes it considerably reduces the effort (some of us are rather frailer than we were ).

3. For smaller sizes it reduces the likelihood of breaking the part (obviously it's not the die that's going to give).

It would, however, be nice to have some idea of how much thread engagement I'll end up with.
chris stephens26/01/2012 20:05:58
1049 forum posts
1 photos
If you find yourself breaking taps on a regular basis, and you have drilled the holes the right size, could it be that you are not tapping straight but on the p*ss. Quite often , if you are on the piss, you can go in quite a way then things tighten up on you., then OOPS.
When tapping holes I almost always use either a drill stand to keep the tap straight or I use a block with a squarely drilled hole, that the tap just fits, to do the same job. I can only recall breaking two taps in the last ten years or so, one 10BA the other M2.5 both were hand held! On the 10BA, I blame the weight of the tap holder. the other was pure clumsiness on my part.
chriStephens
Hugh Gilhespie26/01/2012 21:09:10
130 forum posts
45 photos
Sid,
 
For ISO metric threads the formula to calculate the percentage engagement is:
 
percent engaged = 92.38 * (major diameter - pilot diameter) / pitch
 
So, for M6 x 1 using a 5 mm pilot drill gives 92.38 % engaged.
 
Most people recomment around 70% so, using a 5.2 mm pilot would give
0.8 * 92.38 = 73.9%.
 
The formula is from Machinerys Handbook by the way.
 
Regards, Hugh
Gone Away26/01/2012 22:49:40
829 forum posts
1 photos
Thanks, Hugh but engagement vs tap drill dia wasn't the issue in my question (see top of page 2). It was engagement vs part dia for dies.
 
And yes I have Machinery's Handbook (probably the 5th or 6th copy I've had over the years - the latest being the desk version of the 28th edition which has large enough print I can still read it) and I realise it contains the data for most cases. I just didn't want to have to dig it out and calculate it for everything I use (mostly unc/unf, metric, some BSW/BSF).
 
The point was that there are tables available from at least two sources for engagement relating to taps. Why not similar tables for dies?
 
Actually, I did make an error in my reply to David Littlewood which might have confused you"
 
When I said " For larger tap sizes ..... " I should have said "For larger thread sizes ...." which makes more sense in the context. Too late to edit it now.
 
 

Edited By Sid Herbage on 26/01/2012 22:53:39

Speedy Builder527/01/2012 08:35:23
2878 forum posts
248 photos
Get hold of December / Jan issue of Engineering in Minature, and make a spark eroder for about 15 quid. Give it to the club when you have finished with it. It really is a simple job to make it and only has about 6 electric / electronic bits.
Michael Horner27/01/2012 08:58:17
229 forum posts
63 photos
John There many ways of digging out broken taps. But before I begin are your holes ‘through’ or ‘blind holes’?
Method 1 The chemical method. This depends on the fact that hardened steels are more readily attacked by chemicals than mild steel. I generally use this method for taps smaller than 3.2 mm. Get hold of a solution of Ferric Chloride (the stuff used to etch Printed circuit boards). Clean out the cutting oil with isopropanol then drip in the Ferric Chloride. If it is a open ended hole stop up the bottom with something. This method is slow.
Richard.
How slow is slow? I have a broken 2mm tap I wouldn't mind removing. It's in a blind hole but it full length about 8mm.
 
Cheers Michael
Gordon W27/01/2012 11:49:48
2011 forum posts
Special welding rods are available for removing broken studs ,and taps, I've used them and they work. The coating is a special, and protects the inside of the hole, just poke the rod down the hole and form an extension on the stud. These are available in UK in small quantaties, not cheap tho', sorry but can't find the address now.
Douglas Johnston27/01/2012 11:50:58
avatar
814 forum posts
36 photos
Robert,
I went out this morning to look for an issue of Engineering in Miniature but the February issue was the only one on the stand. Is the spark eroder article in the December and January issues since I will need to get a back issue/issues.
 
Doug.
Speedy Builder527/01/2012 18:55:21
2878 forum posts
248 photos
Doug Johnston - pleas check your personal messages for update on broken tap spark eroder.
John Coates29/01/2012 11:07:38
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558 forum posts
28 photos
Update
 
Using a punch and a BFH didn't work! Guess the thread depth of 0.5mm the tap has cut means it is in there pretty fast
 
Anybody got this EIM article on a spark eroder for £15 ?
 
John
Douglas Johnston29/01/2012 16:11:01
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814 forum posts
36 photos
 
Doug
wotsit29/01/2012 18:02:33
188 forum posts
1 photos
I guess you've all seen this. Lots of other interesting stuff as well (no connection )
Harold Hall 129/01/2012 22:40:04
418 forum posts
4 photos

Sid

I must apologise for having been slow in answering your question regarding possible lists on my website for the effect of producing external threads being made with reduced diameters, in short the answer is no. Its an interesting thought though as I find when producing threads on the lathe beyond M6 my three jaw is unable to withstand the torque required.

I suspect many readers of this thread have noticed a contradiction between my figures for percentage thread depth in relation to drill size compared to those as calculated using the Machinerys Handbook formula as mentioned by Hugh. Using a 5.2mm Machinerys Handbook results in a quoted thread depth of 73.9% whilst I state only 65%. The reason for this is as follows and I can only leave it with the viewer to chose which method suits the home workshop situation.

The reason lies in the quite different thread form of both Metric and Unified threads compared to earlier standards, BA, Whitworth, etc. I produced my DOS based spread sheets to calculate all the values about 20 years ago when the MEW data book was first appearing in the magazine. with this being so long ago my memory of the method was very hazy to say the least and have had to go back to view the formula that I wrote into the sheets, hence my delay in replying.

Incidentally, for anyone interested in using DOS, I have on my Vista PC a Virtual Windows 98 PC which has the facility of exiting to DOS, still back to the thread problem.

Considering first the external thread and the root of this. This conforms to the norm having sloping sides with a radius at its base. However, the external thread that mates with this has flats on its inner diameter so that there is a gap between the two. This being just like tapping any other thread form with a larger drill than the thread core diameter.

For my calculation therefore I have used the core diameter of the external thread and Machinery Handbook the larger internal diameter as produced by the flats on the tips of the internal thread. I have calculated this to prove that this method is what they are using.

As it is the norm to produce internal threads using oversize drills in the past and thread depths have been based on the core diameter of the external thread it seems illogical to use the internal diameter of the internal thread when considering tapping drill sizes.

Incidentally, using my method, Metric and Unified threads start with a thread depth of 88.2%

Whilst it has no bearing on tapping drill sizes, Metric and Unified threads also have a small flat on the outer tips of the external thread and a radius on the mating internal diameter. Because of this you will find that the outer diameter of a tap is larger than the thread's quoted size. Typically, an M6 tap will have a diameter in the region of 6.1mm (amount quoted from memory).

Even though the standard quotes flats, the tap and die manufactures are permitted to add a radius to ease manufacture though these must stay within the quoted dimension and not be on the top of the flat.

I intend to stay with my method of defining thread depth as I consider it more logical, also noting that Tubal Cain appears to have taken this approach.

Harold

Gone Away30/01/2012 01:20:39
829 forum posts
1 photos
Posted by Harold Hall 1 on 29/01/2012 22:40:04:

Sid

I must apologise for having been slow in answering your question regarding possible lists on my website for the effect of producing external threads being made with reduced diameters, in short the answer is no. Its an interesting thought though as I find when producing threads on the lathe beyond M6 my three jaw is unable to withstand the torque required.
........

Incidentally, for anyone interested in using DOS, I have on my Vista PC a Virtual Windows 98 PC which has the facility of exiting to DOS


 
No apology necessary Harold we all have lives
 
I too have trouble with the chuck not being up to the torque (not to mention my so-called muscles) hence my interest. TC's book is really curious in that it goes into taps and tapping in exquisite detail while covering external threading with dies rather cursorily.
 
If anyone is interested in the virtual PC software (which allows you to install virtually any windows OS - or MSDOS directly I believe - not just windows 98) it's a free download from Microsoft. "Microsoft Virtual PC 2007" will get you a version that runs under XP and Vista. "Windows Virtual PC" will get you a version that runs under Windows-7
John Coates18/02/2012 19:30:51
avatar
558 forum posts
28 photos

Sorry to resurrect this but the acid hasn't worked (been at it three days) so I'm going down the cobalt drill route (set ordered) and need to know what speed to run the drill at. The set I've bought goes up to 6.5mm from 1.5mm in 0.5mm increments so which should I use (original hole was 5mm for the 6mm tap)?

Cheers folks!

John

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