Repair a small cast bell

Whatever method you use, and I would think glue the simplest and safest, it is very unlikely to "ring" again, if it ever actually rang in a proper bell-like manner.

The joint will likely act as internal reflector and impedance mis-match to do all sorts of weird and not-so-wonderful things to the vibrations in the metal.

Still, it is a nice enough object as an ornament, so worth the effort to perform at least a cosmetic repair.

I thought I recognised that !

It's a miniature replica of a bell in the temple at Kamakura, Japan. I purchased mine in 1985 on my first trip to Tokyo. Mine is currently in regular service. It gets rung out of the kitchen window when I'm in the workshop and a meal is ready. Contrary to expectations, it does have a very clear and loud ring, hence its current employment.

You never know, they might still be in production.....

So an update to anyone following this thread.

Thanks to a very kind offer, I was sent some coated SiF Bronze to use for my attempts at a repair.

The excellent advice in this thread and privately suggested heating the bell to red, cooling and then mechanically brushing the joint surfaces - that was achieved successfully. I then used a Dremel with a tungsten burr to further clean and to make a V-groove on the inside of the bell to allow the braze to flow.

I then clipped the two pieces together and applied some Tenacity N°1 flux. The two parts were held together by thye spring tension in the bell itself (spoiler alert!).

The next step was heating and applying the Sif Bronze to the interior and allowing to cool. I was pleasantly surprised at how it flowed nicely into the inside groove although my technique leaves much to be desired I suspect!

Significant effort was then required to clean it up. Sadly, the two parts slipped slightly so one joint is near perfect and almost invisible, the other side has a small step - maybe next time I should bind with iron wire or similar.

I struggled to remove the two fluxes and eventually mechanically ground them from the inside and picked bits off from the outside.

Finally, the best part of all is that IT RINGS!! Proof of the pudding is in a 20 second YouTube video for anyone interested at (https://youtube.com/shorts/hAzSyVrEpdk?feature=share) Ringing Bell

Finally, finally....does anybody have any ideas about how to replace the verdigris finish on the bell - I am pretty sure it was a chemical effect rather than paint and all I can find on the web seem to refer to paint substitute finishes. Answers on a postcard please - or better still, here!

Simon

Excellent repair, and I can confirm that the pitch is correct !

Gerry

Simon , Excellent job , well done . Regarding the finish you are wanting , suggest you may find it useful to contact Black-it . No connection with company .

Trevor.

Don't know what it is or where you'd get it, but I believe there is a chemical used to patinate newly cast bronze statues.

Rob

Problem is that any chemical blacking won't take on the bronze repair. you could try a VHT barbecue paint

I believe that there is very little bronze exposed on the outside - and I can attack it further to leave just the trace of the repair - and its not blackening, its a verdigris finish which in my logical way (meaning unknowledgeable) should also advere/affect bronze thanks to the copper content. But then, I never made any pretence to be a chemist!

I think Rob may have the general idea, problem I have found so far is the torrent of search engine hits referencing painted on patina finishes...

Verdigris [ the real deal, not just a colour] is formed on cuprous materials

ergo … the original colour on the cast Iron is not actual verdigris

MichaelG.

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This Wikipedia page may possibly help: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Verdigris

Edited By Michael Gilligan on 31/07/2023 17:37:10

Michael, I totally agree - but I am at a loss to know what else to call it...
As you can see from the original photos at the top of this thread and Gerry's later, it resembles verdigris and I am convinced its a chemical effect since there were no fumes or surface material burning away when I heated it.

If you know what it may be called, I am sure that would advance me in my search...currently 'not-verdigris', is not helping!

Sorry, Simon … not really very helpful was it !

For my penance, I shall go searching on your behalf

MichaelG.

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Edit: __ before I do, I should mention that I did have one idea about it … if the iron bell was first copper-plated then real verdigris could be formed in the plating.

Edited By Michael Gilligan on 31/07/2023 18:32:36

If you decide to try the copper-plating route, this looks a very thorough tutorial on doing that without the use of nasty acids : **LINK**

https://youtu.be/2adh56s11Sg

MichaelG.

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Edit: __ this doesn’t tell us much, but it’s attractive :

https://omotenashi-square.com/products/japanese-cast-iron-temple-wind-bell

Edited By Michael Gilligan on 31/07/2023 19:10:39

Thanks Michael, good to know that you are on the case!

I did wonder about copper plating, just wasn't sure that this is how it would have been done originally.

Hopefully your penance will reveal all!

Simon

Well, these might work, or could end in disaster..

Links to https://www.sciencecompany.com/Patina-Formulas-for-Brass-Bronze-and-Copper.aspx

Rob

I think you might do well to ask this bay seller whether it would/should work: **LINK**

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262931185082

MichaelG.

I wonder if the original was applies hot, such as in the production of these Japanese tea kettles; about 6 minutes in, though the whole video is worth watching



Though I did see this commercial video whilst I was wandering around the net as well

Bill

Edited By peak4 on 31/07/2023 21:31:53

Fascinating video, Bill … thanks for sharing it

Frustrating though, to hear only the word lacquer used in reference to whatever was dusted onto the hot metal

MichaelG.

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Edited By Michael Gilligan on 01/08/2023 07:59:31

Yes, agree with Michael on both counts....

If you want to copper plate it, being ferrous, suspend it in a solution of copper suphate for a few hours.

Because of the relative position of Iron and Copper in the electrochemical series, copper will transfer onto the iron.

If left long enough, a suffiecient thicknes might build up, and then the copper could be treated with somrthing that will change the surface to green

Vinegar perhaps? A wild guess

Howard