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How to remove this pulley?

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Circlip01/07/2023 10:05:30
1723 forum posts

"There were two SET screws" ??? Given that there was a washer and retaining screw on the end of the shaft would suggest the pulley could float off the shaft at worst case of non clamping.

Regards Ian.

Nicholas Farr01/07/2023 10:06:38
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3988 forum posts
1799 photos

Hi, I prefer the hydraulic pullers myself Machine Mart but I do have a set like Machine Mart 2 and the split bearing / pulley piece could be made easily enough for this set.

Regards Nick.

not done it yet01/07/2023 12:56:56
7517 forum posts
20 photos
Posted by Circlip on 01/07/2023 09:45:20:

Definitely a 'Poly-Vee' drive so don't even think about making making a plastic version. On end view of motor shaft, looks to be a sleeve (Tapered?) between the shaft and the pulley. O/P is not giving us any clues as to whether there are any grub screws in the pulley.

Regards Ian.

Possible clues are the drilling in the boss (which may house a grub screw?) and the paint(?) missing on the end of the pulley (maybe indicating a large washer was there?), the keyway and key - there might be more.

One thing that is unlikely to be good news is hitting it with a hammer! A suitable puller is the obvious ‘weapon-of-choice’ for safe removal (as I doubt there is a hydraulic press available).

I wondered what the lines, on the end of the motor shaft, at 60 degree intervals were for…

Sonic Escape01/07/2023 13:25:19
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194 forum posts
5 photos
Posted by not done it yet on 01/07/2023 12:56:56:
Posted by Circlip on 01/07/2023 09:45:20:

Definitely a 'Poly-Vee' drive so don't even think about making making a plastic version. On end view of motor shaft, looks to be a sleeve (Tapered?) between the shaft and the pulley. O/P is not giving us any clues as to whether there are any grub screws in the pulley.

Regards Ian.

Possible clues are the drilling in the boss (which may house a grub screw?) and the paint(?) missing on the end of the pulley (maybe indicating a large washer was there?), the keyway and key - there might be more.

One thing that is unlikely to be good news is hitting it with a hammer! A suitable puller is the obvious ‘weapon-of-choice’ for safe removal (as I doubt there is a hydraulic press available).

I wondered what the lines, on the end of the motor shaft, at 60 degree intervals were for…

I don't think there is a sleeve. Yes, there was a large washer there. Covering those 60 degree intervals.

There were also 2 set screws that I removed yesterday. I keep pouring WD40 there since last evening.

After brainstorming with a friend on WhatsApp he suggested to build this thing:

I tried again with a 0.2Kg hammer but nothing. But I think I'm getting closer. There are two choices now. I can continue to build a frame in order to be able to use a jack. I have a 12 ton one. Or to weld together the two L-shaped parts with two flat pieces of steel and use them as holding points for a puller. This model is available in a store here. The store is open until 21:00. However I'm not sure if the puller is strong enough. Unior breand is ok, but this model can pull only 400kg

Or maybe from Leroy Merlin. They have more puller and they are much cheaper. But I never heard about Toya. And the fact that it is available also on Aliexpress is not a good sign. 

Edited By Sonic Escape on 01/07/2023 13:32:36

Nigel McBurney 101/07/2023 14:36:20
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1101 forum posts
3 photos

A 0.2 kg will have no effect on this shaft and pulley,it will just bounce,also too many pieces of wood will also absorb a lot of the shock of the hammer blow,one good clout with a 4 lb club hammer with the angle iron mounted on concrete blocks should move it. The marks t 60 degreeson the end of the shaft may be from a very light means of rotating the shaft for balancing the rotor between centres.

Ian P01/07/2023 14:51:06
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2747 forum posts
123 photos

Lines left on the end of the shaft are from the 'Face Driver' used when the shaft was manufactured.

Your two lengths of angle in conjunction with the clamps (I suggest you move them much closer to the spindle so less flexing) already form the part of a 'puller' that will be a far better job of dismantling than any press would do.

If you cut a couple of notches in the webs of the angle either side of the pulley then the heads of two long bolts can be trapped under the webs. A stout plate with two holes and a bit of packing (a few washers even) on the end of shaft should be enough to place substantial pressure to get the pulley moving.

One tip. No need to tighten the two bolts to the point of straining or bending anything, once you have loaded up the end pressure use a hammer to shock the shaft/pulley.

Ian P

 

No need for a club hammer just to apply the extra jolt 

Edited By Ian P on 01/07/2023 14:53:02

roy entwistle01/07/2023 16:29:37
1716 forum posts

Forget WD40 and get some Plusgas or diesel on it

mgnbuk01/07/2023 16:57:37
1394 forum posts
103 photos

Heat the pulley to expand it while it is under tension from the puller.

Concur with Ian P on the face driver marks - that was how Brook Crompton Parkinson made their shafts.

Nigel B.

Nicholas Farr01/07/2023 17:48:27
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3988 forum posts
1799 photos

Hi, I agree with Nigel B. about heating it while you've got your puller tight, even if you use a good hot air gun. Been there and done it a few times.

Regards Nick.

Sonic Escape01/07/2023 18:25:12
avatar
194 forum posts
5 photos

Victory! I bought a puller. The cheapest one. Toya turned out to be some kind of Yato brand. I tried to pull the pulley but of course it's claws were too thick. So I thought why not grind them a little. It turned out that just 1mm was enough. In the end was very simple.

The pulley is made from steel. No markings. WD40 didn't reached all the contact surface.

Thank you for all suggestion!

​​​​​​

 

Edited By Sonic Escape on 01/07/2023 18:28:12

AJAX01/07/2023 21:10:15
433 forum posts
42 photos

I have a couple of pullers similar to the ones shown above and they work well with an impact driver.

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