I need to cut chamfers into x64 pieces of mild steel - any advice?

CAD vs Pencil My computer is off (typing on phone)

Well I think you need some “comprehension” practice

I was defending you !!

MichaelG.

Maybe you could save a lot of money by getting a local machine shop to do the work for you. As long as you intend to use the mill regularly, it would not be worth buying one.

If you have a Proxon mill, make up a holder, (just a steel (or maybe even a hardwood ) block with a simple clamp to hold the steel at 45 degrees, and fix to the table ( even in a vice (If a tilting one, just tip the vice up at 45 degrees and butt the steel plate against the body of the vice, and mill along the edge.

If no mill, but a fixed sanding disc is available, again make up a jig and use it to pass the plate across the disc. But you will have to control the depth of cut by hand, if you cannot rig up a fence along which to run the jig.

Once the fence is set in the right position to produce the required chamfer and narrow land, the remaining 63 should be easier to make.

Howard

• Given you have invented your new product some similar ingenuity applied to designing the production method would be a good idea. Usually any product designer would consider the manufacturing method as a design constraint.
  
• If you don't do it by hand, either the mitre will have to be milled or ground - people have described how you could do the job either way.
  
• Since it's clearly not cost effective to buy a mill for this one job I think an abrasive disc machine is more likely to do the job for you. As Howard suggests setting up a mitred clamping jig and a fence to control the depth is the way to go. You have shown one of the blanks sitting in a vee block - how could it be clamped in that position (hint - consider a round bar clamped in the vee to hold it)? How could you then use the vee block as a jig (hint - run the fence in the groove machined in the side of the block)? Think carefully about the risks and work safely.
  
• Is the chamfer essential, could the design be modified to work without it?

Pity you did not get them cut by a company with a tilting head laser as they could have done one edge at 45deg. If made 8.2mm wide you would only be faced with flattening the knife edge by 0.2mm and that would be at right angles to the flat face so easier to deal with.

I quite like the look of this chamfering attachment, which might be suitable for your needs.

Links to https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gRioQ8Vq_tk

Rob

.

Are you aware that diamond hones are available in various grit-sizes ?

… and that diamond files are also available ?

MichaelG.

Edited By Michael Gilligan on 04/09/2021 08:18:34

Put one on parallels in a vice with a vice stop for location. Cut the edge with a 45° chamfering cutter. Repeat until finished.

Martin C

In my mind, 64 isn't that many. You would develop a really useful skill if you were 'mindful' while you did the task. It is possible to find statisfaction in the task itself such that you will be dissapointed at the end when there are no more left to do. I'd mark out each carefully then hand file wit the part in a handvice supported against a jewellers peg. Maybe use a very simple jig and diamond stone at the end but a file will get you very close.

John

This will be my final post on this thread … I am genuinely trying to help, but it is clearly not appreciated.

Here’s a direct quote from the page that I linked yesterday:

Most sharpening can be performed by a fine 600 grit diamond. This has the abrasive ability to effectively sharpen a dull knife in less than a minute and bring the edge to a keen razor finish. When your job requires a surface that will sharpen quickly, but still leave a high-quality finish, we offer a medium 400 grit diamond. For those who wish to get the job done fast but are still interested in a good quality finish, try a coarse 250 grit diamond (for sharpening axes, shovels, garden tools, industrial shop tools and de-burring applications). For very fast metal removal try our extra coarse 150 grit diamond for roughing in or prepping for the final finish. Extra coarse grit is available on all flat tools. To achieve the ultimate in a polished finish try our Superfine 1200 grit diamond surface. Ideally suited for woodworking and industrial application where only perfection is tolerated. We also offer several specialist diamond sharpening tools, which include chain saw sharpeners, needle files, and flat hand files, and oval sharpeners.

MichaelG.

Edited By Michael Gilligan on 04/09/2021 08:53:58

My 2 penny worth, mill if you can or organise a filing set up, I think there is too much metal to remove using diamond laps/hones.

Tony

I did enquire as to the grit yesterday Michael and suggested a coarser one or using something similar to the "scary sharp" method to remove the majority of metal

I can see a job for a shaper here

wasn't there an existing lack of tools/experience and a small budget?

Which makes buying a £100 belt sander, then using it and a few minutes to make a jig the way to go. It also means that the job provides a useful tool for other jobs. The OP could be done before dinner.

From another thread...

**LINK**

I think the OP has plenty of advice now, I suggest he makes a choice of method and has a go and reports back.

The parts have holes in them, so coach bolts and wing nuts will make swapping them quicker. And at only 16mm long, the jig could easily hold two at a time.

It seems we are all in agreement that some form of jig is the best way to go with the amount to be made but I fear Brian may have a job making a jig. He was not able to cut bits of metal to 8 x 16 or put the holes in them after long threads on the subjects and has ended up getting them laser cut so a jig may be a challenge with the tools he has or more likely does not have.

If he buys the proxxon it can be used to make a jig with a step to act as a fence, drill the holes for screws or dowels and finally machine the chamfer, can't do all that with manual or mechanical abrasives alone

Looking back to the original posting, I would suggest the laser cutters didn't make such a great job either. They don't look like 8 x 16 to me