SillyOldDuffer | 19/07/2020 14:40:43 |
10668 forum posts 2415 photos | Posted by Michael Gilligan on 19/07/2020 08:51:48:
Please forgive the digression, but I was intrigued by that 46.3mm dimension 46.3 ÷ 25.4 = 1.82283464566929 [which doesn’t look very encouraging] and [using the converter on ‘calculator soup’] the fractional value is 1.8228346456692 = 1 + 2057086614173 / 2500000000000 [and rounding-up doesn’t seem to improve things] Google search for 46.3mm finds a Trend router cutter of that diameter, but little else of interest Eureka ! Somehow, I managed to stumble into: **LINK** http://www.convertaz.com/convert-cable-length-(international)-to-kilofoot/ Which reveals that: 3 cable lengths (International) = 1.8228346457 kilofeet . Now, can someone [probably Dave S.O.D.] please explain the connection between that little gem and the A/F dimension that MCB measured ? MichaelG.
I'm baffled. A cable is 1/10th of a Nautical Mile, defined as 1 minute ( ie 1/60th a degree) of latitude along any line of longitude, which are approx 40000km in circumference. And the nautical mile is derived from the 1791 metre, which is one ten millionth of 90° of latitude along any line of longitude, ie approx 10000km. So a nautical mile is 1852 metres, making 3 cables 617⅓ metres, or 1822.8346457 feet Never heard of a kilofoot before, but its real (304.8m). Reckon I'm completely bamboozled by numbers matching randomly as necessary to draw Ley Lines and the answer is nothing to do with units. Is it that kilofeet are used to measure telecommunication cables, as in “When arranged in this way, the cable exhibits a nominal resistance of 0.067 ohms per kilofoot of phase.” and that cables are often run over floors in houses, offices and flats? (Across Flats, geddit!) I was going to suggest MC's 46.3mm measurement is actually 1 53/64" or 1.8203125" But 1 53/64" isn't a standard spanner size. Maybe chuck flats aren't standard? Those on my ER32 chuck are 35.15mm, which is also weird. I made a spanner to fit and labelled it 36 though its actually 35.85mm The spanner doesn't need to be strong. This one has a mild steel head bolted into an aluminium handle with an M6 Allen Bolt - junk box metal and rough craftsmanship. Dave |
JasonB | 19/07/2020 15:01:12 |
![]() 25215 forum posts 3105 photos 1 articles | Posted by Michael Gilligan on 19/07/2020 08:51:48:
Please forgive the digression, but I was intrigued by that 46.3mm dimension I should think a spanner intended for M30 hex would fit quite cosily as the spanners are usually a tad over the AF size of 46mm in this case, spanners tolerance seems to be 46.1 to 46.7mm 1 1/8" UNC spanner would be another good bet and as the US market for most of the far eastern tooling is far greater than the metric world would make use of a standard UNC size sensible.
Edited By JasonB on 19/07/2020 15:36:19 |
Michael Gilligan | 19/07/2020 16:34:27 |
![]() 23121 forum posts 1360 photos | Posted by JasonB on 19/07/2020 15:01:12:
Posted by Michael Gilligan on 19/07/2020 08:51:48:
Please forgive the digression, but I was intrigued by that 46.3mm dimension I should think a spanner intended for M30 hex would fit quite cosily […] . Sorry, Jason, but you miss my point ... The digression was what interested me i.e. the fact that the strange dimension that was measured is actually relevant in a system of units to which I was previously oblivious. The mere task of buying or making a spanner to fit the existing flats is of little interest compared with that. MichaelG. |
MC Black 2 | 19/07/2020 16:36:01 |
99 forum posts | Posted by JasonB on 19/07/2020 15:01:12:
Posted by Michael Gilligan on 19/07/2020 08:51:48:
Please forgive the digression, but I was intrigued by that 46.3mm dimension I should think a spanner intended for M30 hex would fit quite cosily as the spanners are usually a tad over the AF size of 46mm in this case, spanners tolerance seems to be 46.1 to 46.7mm 1 1/8" UNC spanner would be another good bet and as the US market for most of the far eastern tooling is far greater than the metric world would make use of a standard UNC size sensible.
Edited By JasonB on 19/07/2020 15:36:19 I think it may be 1.7/8 AF or 1.1/8 Whit I guess Whit spanners are NOT common in the Untied States? But the information about the Spindle lock and the Ball Bearing Collet Nut may both be very helpful.
With best wishes and thanks again. |
Enough! | 19/07/2020 17:12:33 |
1719 forum posts 1 photos | Posted by MC Black 2 on 19/07/2020 16:36:01:
I think it may be 1.7/8 AF
.... raises the general question: for a nominal 1-7/8 AF, is it the spanner that is made to the nominal and the part slightly less to suit, or vice-versa? |
MC Black 2 | 19/07/2020 17:51:22 |
99 forum posts | I have measured the size across flats very carefully Using a digital caliper, it's 46.08 AF Bot it may still be 1.7/8 AF (47.63mm) or 1.1/8 BSW (47.24mm) However, the suggestion to use the (unlabelled) spindle lock, a Ball Bearing nut and a four point spanner may solve the problem. I'm tempted to buy the Ball Bearing nut for the ER16 Collets on my lathe at the same time. I am so pleased that I found the Forum; it's been so very helpful. Very many thanks again |
MC Black 2 | 19/07/2020 18:17:40 |
99 forum posts | Posted by Gary Wooding on 19/07/2020 09:47:13:
**THIS** will almost certainly do the job for you, and cheap too.
I have now ordered one. It seems a useful tool at a good price - and it's NOT a fortune if it's junk! Very many thanks again
MC Black |
Clive Foster | 19/07/2020 19:27:24 |
3630 forum posts 128 photos | I've never got on with adjustable spanners for that sort of one job duty. Either they sort of self adjust without me noticing or get stolen for another job and get put back in the wrong place. Both being vocabularily inspiring. But not in a good way. Having got it and used it for a bit I'd take a very careful look at what you find the best angle between the C spanner and lock spanner is and make a special one with the shaft at the best angle to the jaws for you. I'd probably arrange them to be quite close so I could squeeze them together for the initial unlocking or final tightening. Other folk might use a significant angle, maybe 30°-40° or so, putting the ends sort of chest width to push with elbows out. Hate that myself. Or maybe a more open angle so one arm is straight out holding steady for the othe to do the work. A monster torque method for me. Perhaps just arrange it so it butts up against part of the machine. I know that is effectively the same as using the spindle lock but it seems kinder to keep all the heaving within the chuck structure. Clive |
MC Black 2 | 23/07/2020 17:38:03 |
99 forum posts | Posted by Nick Clarke 3 on 19/07/2020 09:23:10:
'Superwide' adjustable spanners like this one could fit without the hassle and ungainliness of 24" stilsons, but would cost you about £20 at least. I don't use mine on a mill but nearly everywhere else! I ordered one In my view, it's NOT fit for purpose since it does NOT open to the full range described in the listing I am waiting to hear from the seller about a refund.
I bought a Ball Bearing ER32 Collet nut from Arc and the expensive spanner to tighten it. The spanner will NOT fit the nut. I rang Arc and a gentleman told me that there were lots of complaints and it needs a little filing to make the spigots in the spanner fit the recesses on the nut. It seems to me that spanners that do NOT fit the nut should NOT be sold. The gentleman gave me the choice of returning the nut for exchange OR filing it. But he said that he would NOT be able to take it back if I filed. I suggested that the spanners should have all be filed to fit the nuts before being sold; but the chap disagreed with me. MC
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not done it yet | 23/07/2020 19:37:41 |
7517 forum posts 20 photos | A ‘C’ spanner? Not the best choice, IMO. This type (not necessarily from this source) is the type I use. Longer handle and padded, but a bear to locate. I ground/cut/milled off two of the notches on mine and it locates much easier. Both my spanners will usually remain in place if I let go of either or both of them. |
MC Black 2 | 23/07/2020 19:52:28 |
99 forum posts | It was NOT the C-spanner. It was the one here: Which of the "spigots?" did you remove? A C-spanner came with the Chuck but it was difficult to undo the nut so I followed the advice from another reader to buy the Ball Bearing nut and the forged spanner With best wishes and thanks |
not done it yet | 23/07/2020 21:19:44 |
7517 forum posts 20 photos | OK, no need to shout - I only asked! It was the only one that came up on my search. The inner ones (I very much doubt it would work satisfactorily if the outer lugs were removed? I don’t think mine is as thick as that one and not forged, either. I’m not recommending that course of action, just reporting what I did. It has not broken yet and I see no reason why it should (comparing it with the usual ‘C’ spanner - and it is easier to get the torque somewhere close to that required in the specs. |
MC Black 2 | 23/07/2020 23:38:25 |
99 forum posts | My computer always sets "not" in upper case [for the avoidance of doubt]. I apologise if I upset you It was the end spigots that would NOT fit easily in the recesses on the nut. I shall very carefully ease the lengths of the two outer spigots and see what happens.
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