Tooling Choices, identification & WM290 Feed Question

Someone in China had a bad day - the Gremlins got to that gear plate good and proper! Here they are side-by-side:

The plate on the lathe (left on picture) is odd. The pasted table from the manual is better, but it's not identical to the one on my WM280, which has gears for 9,18 & 36 tpi as per Dave's left table. My maths is dreadful, but I think 50 85 60 60 is correct (17.99 tpi), while 50 85 60 65 produces 19.49 tpi.

Any 290 owners out there who have tested all the combinations? I'm almost 100% metric and haven't used the TPIs much. My metric 280 could be Imperially wrong too!

Dave.

Could someone please tell me how to embed a photo in the actual post as its getting to grind having to create an album each time I want to show something. Maybe I'm missing something?

Anyhow, the Pitch of my leadscrew is 3mm and the clutch - a spring loaded cam type clutch is mounted on the left of the shaft as it enters the gearbox. Please See album photo. Not sure if this is a recent feature for a 190 but it is listed as a feature on the Warco site as "Overload clutch to feed shaft".

When it overloads it just jumps 1/4 turn then carries on driving until it overloads again. Simple and effective but I wondered if my spring was weak. I guess the other factors in which I'm a novice need looking into before blaming the tool!

Been carpet fitting today so no time to read everything but I'll get to it eventually. I thought retirement was meant to be restful!

Ah yes the newer ones have the slipper clutch rather than the sheer pin. If it is jumping that easily then something is amiss.

To put a photo into your post have the cursor where you want the photo and then along the top of the box where you are typing there is a little "black camera" icon, click that and it will bring up your albums, select the album and image and then click OK and it will place it into the text.

Also you don't need to keep creating albums, if you click "albums" at the top of the page you can then select "edit photos"  and then the photos in the album come up and you can select "add more photos" 

Edited By JasonB on 02/03/2020 18:52:46

left looks to be SCMT

Middle the WNMG I mentioned this morning though it may nor be N as it looks like the edge has clearance

Right TCMT

Edited By JasonB on 02/03/2020 19:03:26

JasonB,

Thank you for your how to post above. Will make a note of it for future use.

John

Don't pussyfoot around, give it some welly! If nothing else with a VFD drive you'll have more power available. As an example I was turning this flywheel at 60rpm:

But it is over 16" in diameter.

Andrew

Thanks Jason. Seems like I still need to faff with the album to get it on the site before it can be plucked out and pasted then. Bit clunky but if that’s what it is...

I guess my clutch is slipping because The tools I’m using are not sharp enough or I’m abusing them by not working the cutting tool hard enough with enough speed. I’ll try abusing it a bit and see what happens.

I put a power meter on it whilst I was cutting and it only pulled about 400W. I have 1100 to spare so I’ll give it some stick. What’s the worst that can happen?

Cheers guys.

Dave

Kevlar body armour, hard hat, several pairs of safety goggles and you will be fine.

Even at the slow speeds the machine should have cut without slipping unless you were taking a silly depth of cut. Check the cutting edge is exactly on the centre height of the lathe, too high and the tool will rub and drag.

I’ve been using the steel rule gently pressed between the tool and some small diameter bar in the Chuck method for centring set up. Could well be down to speed asi was on small diameters that the stalling was worse. I’ll get the flack gear on and see what she’s capable of at some point. Just not today😀

I've altered the title which may attract the 290 users to the thread.

I’ve had my WM 290V for some months now & fairly pleased with my purchase, it’s certainly rough around the edges compared to my old super 7 but it’s a step change in capabilities.

It can really shift the metal & takes hefty cuts in steel with no problem [need to sort out some better guarding] with no sign of the feed screw clutch slipping, maybe it’s locked up tight?

I can’t comment about the change gears etc. as I have fitted the electronic leadscrew kit as promoted by Clough42 on YouTube, a brilliant game changer in my opinion.

Tony

I can see the change gears becoming a pain if I did a lot of threading but at the moment I'm just playing. I guess determining a suitable feed rate to cover a range of applications will be a good place to start. At the moment I have it set to, you guessed it, the slowest. but I'll try faster I promise.

Id be interested to know if your change gear tables had the same errors as mine - even if you no longer use them.

As to that motor driven leadsecrw mod, I watched episode 1 in full and skipped through subsequent ones. It looks fantastic but I think I'll see if I can master the basics before investing further. What kind of money was it as a matter of interest? Is there a UK seller?

Cheers

Dave

I will have a look at my change wheel tables when I get a chance & post pictures, as to the electronic lead screw I suppose just over £100 would be a ball park figure, I didn't keep count so that's only an estimate? All the details are on Github & a board can be purchased from Clough42 via Ebay, all other bits are readily available online from the UK or China.

Tony

I've had my 280 which is very similar in the feed department for over 10 years and not found the need to use anything else but the finest gear train. Just use the 3 position lever to get different rates that seem to suit what I do.

By way of comparrison to what you may be getting this is how brass should cut with HSS and inserts

Edited By JasonB on 03/03/2020 13:14:44

I change feed rates on a regular basis, if only because the cross feed is half what is set for the axial feed. For most general turning I use 4 thou/rev. Very occasionally I'll drop down to 2 thou/rev, but have never used the lowest feedrates.

When roughing I up the rate to 8 or 10, or higher, thou/rev depending upon material and depth of cut. An increased feedrate can also help with chatter when boring.

Andrew

That's basically what I do Andrew with my 3 speed lever once the basic gear train is set. C gives me fine turning and A rough turning then for the facing cuts which like your M300 are at a smaller 1/3rd A gives me the finish feed and B the faster roughing. Those of us without such a selection in the gearbox have to make do with what we have.

Edited By JasonB on 03/03/2020 17:26:27

So based upon the tables posted which feed rates are you using for the baseline of your cuts?

Dave

None as mine is imperial  and you probably have a bigger driver on the spindle due to the larger bore but basically the finest range eg that on the left.

Let me get back to you as I want to double check what's printed is what I'm getting so I will take an actual measurement later to confirm. been a while since I did it and can't remember the feed shaft gearing within the apron.

There does look to be something amiss with your metric chart as the turning (along the lathe) rate is almost 10 times faster than the facing (across) yet the imperial is only 3 times even though they share the same apron internals and feed shaft with only the leadscrew being different and that is not used for feeds.

Edited By JasonB on 04/03/2020 07:27:37

Had more time than I thought this morning so using a plunger dial gauge and turning the chuck 10 revs in position "A" confirms my imperial chart is correct.

Turning along lathe axis usual feed rate "C" = 0.0025" (0.06mm) roughing "A" = 0.005" (0.12mm) Seldom use "B" which is 0.010"

Facing usual finish "A" = 0.0015" (0.04mm) roughing "B" = 0.003" (0.08mm) Seldom use "C" as it is really fine @ 0.00075"