MR16 LED Spot lights

Speedy Builder5 You may have them all over your workshop...They are not GU10 LED's, as GU10 lamps are all 240 Volt.

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Fair enough, Ron ... but the opening line of this thread was:

“A few months ago I stripped the 415 Volt step down transformers out of a couple of MEM machine lights and converted to run off LED drivers and MR16 LED spot lights.”

MichaelG.

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Please could you provide a representative link, Bob

There is clearly some misunderstanding of your situation [possibly by me] but: GU10 is a mains voltage fitting, and I am quite sure that it would be both dangerous and illegal to sell 12V lamps that used it.

Thanks in advance

MichaelG.

And here we have some Scotch Mist.  Look at the drop down box where it says 3 Watt 12v DC:-

Edited By Speedy Builder5 on 19/12/2019 16:19:26

I will concede that they are probably MR16, but they fit the same socket as a GU10

I think one would have to be very careful. It would be very easy to plug a 12v bulb into a 240v service. It might not be you but someone else in the family not quite so up to the varying types of bulbs. Not quite sure how it would behave, but I'm not sure I would want to be near it.

Colin

Oh Dear!

I have "GU10" fitting LED lamps in bayonet adaptors in the worklights each side of my Mill. The metal reflectors are earthed via the fitting and three core cable, but obviously not the bayonet fitting and the "GU10" adaptor.

Ditto, over the Fitting bench!

Thought that they were safer than CFLs, because of no strobe effecct, and safer if hit accidentally!

Howard

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I really hope that’s not true ^^^

I’m still struggling to find them, because you gave us a screenshot not a link ... but don’t worry, I’m on a mission now.

MichaelG.

That must be the only advert for a 12v GU10 LED in the world, Prior to going down the MR16 route I scoured the net for GU10's / 12 volts because of the locking mode of the lamp fitting, I could not find any as they are not designed for 12 volt service.

An easy way to run low voltage lighting is to speak to your local pub landlord and ask if any old bar pump light transformers are languishing in the cellar. If a referb is being done these will often land up in the bin.These units give 24v at 96 watts(4amps) AC with 4 or 6 sets of connectors, 2 fuses and a switch. 24v automotive bulbs will work fine with no strobe effect. For LED use a small bridge rectifier and a smoothing capacitor will give DC and many LEDs will take up to 24v. A good motor factor will have some very smart work/flood lights, though the internet will no doubt have much cheaper ones.

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O.K ... I’ve found the listing: **LINK**

www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LED-Spot-Lights-Bulb-GU10-MR16-3W-4W-5W-6W-7W-2835-SMD-White-Lamp-AC-220V-DC-12V/163905994027

Yes the combination is listed

... But hopefully it’s an error.

MichaelG.

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Edit: I note that it’s also possible to select MR16 in mains voltage !!
PLEASE, PLEASE ... Let it just be an error in the drop-down selection menus.

Edited By Michael Gilligan on 19/12/2019 19:47:33

This is just one of the references for GU10 12 volt on e bay - there are plenty more, I looked for my original one, but it didn't crop up in the first couple of pages.  Select voltage first,  then GU 10, then wattage

GU 10. 12-24 volts

Its interesting that it intermates that they run on 240 volt AC or 12 - 24 volt DC. Anyone tried ordinary 240 volt LEDS on 12 volt DC ??

Edited By Speedy Builder5 on 19/12/2019 19:42:43

Just found the AMAZON order:- Nb. Amazon France

Commande n° 171-824xxxxxxxxx Effectuée le 23 mars 2018

4 Sonline GU10 LAMPE AMPOULE BULB A 3 LED BLANC CHAUD 3W 5 WATTS 12V Etat : Neuf Vendu par PGTA EUR 1,99

Sous-total des articles : EUR 7,96 Frais d'envoi : EUR 0,00 Montant total de la commande : EUR 7,96 Moyen de paiement sélectionné : Visa

I concede ... it looks like they really do exist.

There should be a Law against it ... [and there probably is].

MichaelG.

Looked at the Ebay feedback for the company selling these GU10 fittings. Very poor responses. I will stick with my MR16's with the addition of some "Sticky Stuff" to ensure they do not vibrate out of the fitting.Low voltage lighting as per design.

It's amps that stamps and volts that jolts. Anything that encourages current to flow through the human body is best avoided. For example, ordinary power sockets and switches are forbidden in bathrooms because wet contact greatly increases current flow. What's acceptable in the rest of a house isn't safe in bathrooms.

Lathes and milling machines create a bathroom-like electrical hazard. Large metal tools are always carefully earthed to reduce the risk of electrocution should it develop an internal fault. However, an earthed object with a large surface area itself becomes dangerous in the event of an external problem, such as a faulty mains lamp. Putting the palm of one hand on a lathe bed whilst touching a live lamp with other is apt to be fatal. While earthing generally makes electricity safer there are plenty of exceptions!

The easiest way to make machine mounted lamps safe is to power them with low voltage via a transformer. Even if they go wrong the low voltage and transformer inhibit the amount of current that can flow through the body.

Dave

I'm a little unsure why a number of us are getting all excited about varying voltages with varying lamp-holders. Similar pattern incandescent lamps and their LED replacements have been available for years in both 24v and 230v with B27 and GU9 bases

Additionally both 24v and 110v lamps are available with E27 bases of the same pattern

Very simple, loads of 240 volt / 12 volt LED Drivers are available. What is the simple way to get from 240 volt mains to 24 volt DC to drive an LED ??? None...

Don't want a 24 Volt truck lamp. Very easy but ancient.

Edited By Peter Simpson 1 on 19/12/2019 21:59:53

The lamp designation are a bit of a nightmare. MR16 is the reflector size (16x1/8" or 2". The connection is a separate designation The two small diameter straight pins common on "MR16" lamps are GX5.3 (5.3mm spacing). Neither of tese set the voltage, but again the common "MR16" is 12V. Both designtions are quite old and were used on early halogen lamps for projectors and scientific instruments. Voltage can be 6, 12, 14, 48, 120, 240V.
GU10 was originally a halogen lamp with a reflector, mains voltage rated, but no reason why you could not make a low voltage one. Ther was also a GZ10 halogen with a dichroic reflector which allows the infra-red light (=heat) to pass out the back so it does not over heat wht it is illuminating. Of course the back of the fitting needed to cope with the heat so the GZ10 "plug" has a square edge so you cant fit it inplace of a GU which has a 45 degree chamfered edge. Moot point with LEDs as they do not dissipate as much heat.
A conventional "iron" transformer feeding a 12V LED lamp like a 12V MR16 is the most reliable solution. The electronic "transformers" (small light switch mode converters) are not as reliable and cheap ones can cause radio interference and some have safety issues.

Robert G8RPI.