Threading 1/8 stainless steel

For what its worth, I use Ambersil Tufcut to power cut M6 threads on 303 stainless cold drawn rod with no problem, using an WM250V lathe on the lowest speed setting.

Dave

Two old dodges you might try: Machine the bar down .005" undersize before attempting to thread it, plus a good chamfer on the end to get things started.

And wrap a small piece of emery cloth, paper or tape around the job before nipping up the chuck jaws to help stop slipping. Make the emery cloth piece long enough to cover full length of contact between job and jaws to get best grip.

Edited By Hopper on 02/05/2019 01:54:31

I just cut an M3 thread on 316 stainless. Held in a collet in the lathe but cut thread manually, backing off every time to break the chip. HSS die and cutting fluid used.

Paul.

I have cut a massive amount of M6 threads in 304 and 316 stainless.

I have found the only cutting to work for me is Rocol RTD liquid.

I only use "spiral entry" HSS dies (any GOOD supplier of dies will know what these are, they do not need backing off).

I would also only use bored soft jaws or ER collet to hold the stock.

I'd guess at 200 rpm if I was to have a go at 1/8" in stainless.

Good luck!

Jim

Eric,

At the risk of stating the obvious:

If you have a screwcutting lathe, this would be the time to use it ... Even a very basic approximation to a screw-cut thread would remove the majority of the material, and you could then finish it with the die.

MichaelG.

cracked it

1 skimmed 5 thou of diameter

2 Bought an MT adaptor at Doncaster and mounted Jacobs chuck in head stock

3 Cut thread

simples

Great result. Have fun with your stainless. (Stuff is my pet hate!)

ER collets usually work best for me because there are more contact points than a 3 jaw chuck.

I get mine from Accu: **LINK**

Harry