Hoglet Build

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Morning Jason.

Yes I did take the easy route with those tops. I figured that it's the sort of thing that has to match spot on or not at all.! .......... I did not have enough faith for myself to pull off the former. So I cheated and did them like lots of others have..

The threads will be some metric but mostly BA ones.

I figured that I would turn my own bushes from bronze unless there is a good reason not to.?

Nick

I turned my own too. For the amount of running its likely to get the extra oil holding ability of the oilite won't matter.

If you are going to use cap heads then make sure you can get them in BA sizes before you start tapping as ones like 5BA are hard to find

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Where can I obtain some dural aluminium for the con rods. Providing that is the right stuff of course as the drawing is marked in Americano.

Done a web search with little joy. So I am either stupid or it's correct name is something else.

Cheers, Nick

Nick,

Talk to these guys, at Cadishead

**LINK**

MichaelG.

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P.S. ... Dural = Duralumin = a range of high spec alloys dating back to WWII

My memory failed me

... according to Wikipedia, it dates back much earlier.

MichaelG.

College engineering or M-machine will have HE15 or 2014 as its now known, start saving up and don't make a scrapper! This is the usual choice for small IC engine con rods.

M-Mac hine have a better range of flat section but do the maths as its sometimes cheaper to buy round and mill it flat.

Edited By JasonB on 06/03/2016 16:59:57

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Cheers guys.

Nick

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Took a trip today to Mac Models in Macclesfield to buy some steel, aluminium and cast iron.

While I was out that way I took a blast on my motorbike up the 'Cat & Fiddle' road for an adrenaline rush.

Anyway. Those materials should keep me busy for a while on this Hoglet thing.

Nick

Looks like you are going to do the kick start as well, I just went with the basic engine, so I will allow you a day or two extra to get it done

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Errrrrrrrrrr. ........................... What date year did you start your Hoglet Jason. And at what stage is it at now.?

Nick

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Thought I better do something useful with that metal. So had a stab at one of the cylinders.

The drawing calls for the cylinder to be made in one piece from cast iron. Many others though have opted to make them from aluminium and then sleeve with a cast iron liner. - I went for an all cast iron one as per the drawing.

Macc models did not have the close size for the cylinder dia. So I went a size larger and will part off the excess length I bought to make the cylinder head. (which is a larger dia) This meant I had to spend a bit more time carving down to the cylinder dia.

Then cut in the cooling fins.

Then ready to part off. - I think CI is really nice to machine if it's good quality stuff. Pity it makes such a damned mess though.

Fliiped it round into the collet chuck and a boring session we did go.! At this stage I also added the 5 degree taper to some of the fins. - The bore is quite a nice finish with it being nice CI. But left 1/2 though for a tad of honing.

Hey presto.

There is a wide groove to be made yet below the bottom fin that makes a step in the lower section to form a flange. I will do this later when I have both cylinders done and made a mandrel to hold them.

Now I have to make another one that 'looks' exactly the same.!

Nick

Edited By Nick_G on 08/03/2016 23:36:38

Looks good Nick, did you go full depth with the round nosed tool to do the grooves or just use that to finish the bottom?

Watch that the angled fins don't throw your holes for the four studs off, I had a couple drift with straight fins, may be worth leaving the second one flat until the holes are drilled and then add the taper.

J

PS Will take a picture of the state of play on mine later

Nice work, Nick ... it's looking rather fine already.

Also good to see the quality of Macc's Cast Iron.

MichaelG.

Where did the square flange on the bottom of the cylinder come from, and how is it attached?

Thats the bit of aluminium Nick posted earlier not a flange on the piston.

The aluminium plate is drilled & tapped for four long studs, these pass through the cylinder and head and the whole lot is held on with four nuts which pull the cylinder down against the flange that Nick mentions he still has to machine.

And for Nick this is the current position with mine, just teh exhusts to do and drill for magnets and hall sensor for the ignition.

Edited By JasonB on 09/03/2016 09:52:47

I was wondering the same thing Neil. Presumably it's brazed on and final cylinder honing/lapping is yet to come.

* Danny M *

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Like this.

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Jason, I did go full depth with the form tool for the fins.

Nick

I have edited my post with some phoptos which also show the construction for Neil.

While I'm on the point was raised about it being an open crank, the Hoglet is actually one of a number of open crank engines that Randall Cox designed the others being a twin, straight 4 and this rather impressive straight 6 which is known as the "Open Six" The lareg centrifugal fan on the front blows air over the cylinders. If anyone fancies a go then plans and build article are in te first two issues of Model Engine Builder mag.

Nick I like that jam jar fuel tank, it would look good on your hog if you can find something small and like jam

Edited By JasonB on 09/03/2016 10:03:13

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An air brush paint jar.? ............ Almost ready made for the job with a pick-up tube.

Nick

good work nick, very interesting where did you get the drawings?