I need a simple 101 in cutting small brass tube accurate
Izack Madd | 25/05/2015 12:56:47 |
105 forum posts | Posted by Vic on 25/05/2015 03:25:12:
I can't help but pop over to: http://modelshipworld.com and see how they do it over there. While there look out for me and "Nannie" and her tail....😜👍 |
Izack Madd | 25/05/2015 12:59:28 |
105 forum posts | Posted by John Olsen on 25/05/2015 06:08:05:
The people that sell kitsets for wooden boats will also sell you little bags containing lots of little blocks, in different sizes too. They don't have actual sheaves in them but if this is a glass case model that should not matter. John These are just drilled blocks of wood so still suffer from being ugly as hell out of scale and tend to snag the lines just at the wrong time. Only to release them again when you think it's all done |
Izack Madd | 25/05/2015 13:01:12 |
105 forum posts | Posted by jason udall on 25/05/2015 09:24:32:
The roll under knife blade..gives an end like that produced by plumbers pipe cutter..and it take only a few strokes.. Quick .clean.and I found it easy.. If you make a blade , even if not multiple blades but just an end stop you can part off in 5-10 s.. so 360 to the hour..... Edited By jason udall on 25/05/2015 09:25:58 This is basically what I've done for the test model it's the repeatability that I'm concerned about. |
Izack Madd | 25/05/2015 13:04:42 |
105 forum posts | Lots of great ideas for me to try which is what. Thanks a million well 700 plus... |
norman valentine | 25/05/2015 13:14:26 |
280 forum posts 40 photos | Izack Your comment about solid blocks being tricky to adjust is correct but that is tiny compared with the trouble of making the blocks far more complicated than they need to be. I didn't find getting the tension on the rigging to be a problem.
Edited By norman valentine on 25/05/2015 13:15:15 |
Izack Madd | 25/05/2015 13:55:38 |
105 forum posts | Posted by Vic on 25/05/2015 10:27:28: http://www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com/swiss-pear-rigging-blocks.php Should have what you need. Hi, Your right they do have all I need but at $23 for fifty it's more than I want to spend really |
Izack Madd | 25/05/2015 14:02:46 |
105 forum posts | Posted by norman valentine on 25/05/2015 13:14:26:
Izack Your comment about solid blocks being tricky to adjust is correct but that is tiny compared with the trouble of making the blocks far more complicated than they need to be. I didn't find getting the tension on the rigging to be a problem.
Edited By norman valentine on 25/05/2015 13:15:15 Hi, I fully understand what your saying and mainly agree. But it's the same as "why make the model" in the first place. Because... And as I'm unable to work it gives me something to aim for. You could say the same of people who make steam engines with hundreds of scale rivets. Plus the one I've made which is always the slowest. Only took five mins. And looks ten times better than any I've seen. I may not do it but I had the tube. And decided to try. Especial as mine look better than some hand made ones on the MSW. Forum which are just cubes of wood with holes in. But as I put into action all the great ideas and see if it's at all practical then let thing develop from there. Thanks Norman and all the rest of you. Izack |
Ajohnw | 25/05/2015 15:02:00 |
3631 forum posts 160 photos | With GREAT care using a knife edge needle file WITH hopefully a plastic handle rather than a sharp end - hold said tube in some form of electric drill at a moderately slow speed. You could jig this up to form a lathe of sorts - drill a hole in some piece of wood to suite the tube OD, saw in half. Lay tube in the wood as a support and drive it with the drill and file away. This should give you nice clean cuts. A knife probably will too, John - |
jason udall | 25/05/2015 16:37:50 |
2032 forum posts 41 photos | As to consistency. How about a blade spacer dull blade sandwich. .. Sharp blade ..spacer of required thickness..futher blade ( or just plain strip)... .the plain strip hangs onto end..allowing blade to touch tube spacer ( plus half blade thickness) from end.. Now roll for effect... This is why I asked weather you needed say 1.34 mm or "all the same"... When I made one for work they had to be 20.0 mm long -0.0 +0.1..but that was easy..with the toys to machine spacers with ease... ![]() |
jason udall | 25/05/2015 16:45:08 |
2032 forum posts 41 photos | One futher thing The knife blade solution gives a clean burr ( on outside) free finish..... No small bonus on parts this size... I once had to finish with oil stone 1000's of 3mm long by 0.6 mm diameter pins..to take off the part off pip.. (yep even cnc lathes leave part off pips. ( esp in carbide))...no fun no fun at all.. |
norman valentine | 25/05/2015 16:49:30 |
280 forum posts 40 photos | Izack, I agree with your philosophy of wanting to make it because you can. My ship model has all of the interior detail that could only be seen if you were to break it open. I did it because I wanted to. The blocks that I used were awful, little cubes with holes in them but in the overall scheme of things you don't even notice them in the mass of rigging, and I only did the fixed rigging and left the running rigging off! It was my first ship model and I got huge satisfaction from building it. It is now on display in the museum in the Falkland Islands. Enjoy your model.
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Vic | 25/05/2015 17:19:43 |
3453 forum posts 23 photos | I'm finding it hard to imagine how small pieces of brass tube are supposed to represent Wooden Blocks. Can't help thinking it's not going to look very good. I understand some of the issues but folks that build ship models either make or buy wooden blocks or use the plastic "blocks" supplied in some kits. What are you going to do for Deadeyes? |
Izack Madd | 26/05/2015 11:46:43 |
105 forum posts | Posted by norman valentine on 25/05/2015 16:49:30:
Izack, I agree with your philosophy of wanting to make it because you can. My ship model has all of the interior detail that could only be seen if you were to break it open. I did it because I wanted to. The blocks that I used were awful, little cubes with holes in them but in the overall scheme of things you don't even notice them in the mass of rigging, and I only did the fixed rigging and left the running rigging off! It was my first ship model and I got huge satisfaction from building it. It is now on display in the museum in the Falkland Islands. Enjoy your model. Thanks for understanding and very impressive place to have your first model end up. Congratulations.
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Izack Madd | 26/05/2015 11:50:42 |
105 forum posts | Posted by Vic on 25/05/2015 17:19:43: I'm finding it hard to imagine how small pieces of brass tube are supposed to represent Wooden Blocks. Can't help thinking it's not going to look very good. I understand some of the issues but folks that build ship models either make or buy wooden blocks or use the plastic "blocks" supplied in some kits. What are you going to do for Deadeyes? Not everyone uses the ready made versions. As there is a chap, Dafi, over on MSW. making his own block right now. The brass tube is for the pulley wheel inside the block. Which the rope will slide over. It should be grooved around the edge. But the metal is slick enough without that much detail. |
Izack Madd | 26/05/2015 12:00:24 |
105 forum posts | Posted by jason udall on 25/05/2015 16:45:08:
One futher thing
The knife blade solution gives a clean burr ( on outside) free finish..... No small bonus on parts this size... I once had to finish with oil stone 1000's of 3mm long by 0.6 mm diameter pins..to take off the part off pip.. (yep even cnc lathes leave part off pips. ( esp in carbide))...no fun no fun at all.. Hi, Thanks for the comments. I think we've reached the main sticking point between wooden tops and tin tacks. That of exact terms and accuracy. 😜 if we can ignore are own specialities for a moment and use the vernacular, what I need is a means of cutting lengths of tube repeatedly, simply, easily, and with enough accuracy so as to make the sizes "look" the same. I'm not like split cane rod makers, working to a precise 1/75". So as I can create the wooden parts the same and know that they should hold the pulley wheel without binding. So if some are mildly smaller that's fine. It's a maximum that is the main critical point. Hope this makes sense. I don't envy you with the De-piping 👎 |
JasonB | 26/05/2015 12:11:52 |
![]() 25215 forum posts 3105 photos 1 articles | Maybe make something like this with a stop to set your lengths, slot to take a knife or razor saw and simple clamp to hold the work. Similar design here Edited By JasonB on 26/05/2015 12:16:49 |
Izack Madd | 26/05/2015 14:52:56 |
105 forum posts | Posted by JasonB on 26/05/2015 12:11:52:
Maybe make something like this with a stop to set your lengths, slot to take a knife or razor saw and simple clamp to hold the work. Similar design here Edited By JasonB on 26/05/2015 12:16:49 Thanks for that as its something that I can recreate shall we say without any special equipment and even out of timber. Defiantly something I'll be trying as its so simple yet potententialy very useful not just tubes. And no chance of loosing fingers |
jason udall | 26/05/2015 15:35:45 |
2032 forum posts 41 photos | Sorry can't supply skrtch at moment. .
----l lxxxxl l
----l lxxxxl l
----l lxxxxl l
. l l l l
. V l l
========l l
. Ll
========
xxxxx = spacer
l l
l l = knife blade
V
l l
l l = end fence l l ===== = tube being cut. ===== Does this help? I see now its not. ..can't even post ascii art..*mutters* Edited By jason udall on 26/05/2015 15:37:11 Edited By jason udall on 26/05/2015 15:43:03 |
jason udall | 26/05/2015 15:49:54 |
2032 forum posts 41 photos | Ok in "carpentry" terms What you want us like a mini marking gauge.. Replace the scriber with a blade..score the tube at fixed distance from sliding part.. Score it by rolling blade over tube ..While keeping "fence" in contact ( really it is that simple ..once scored theblade locates it self ..). Three or four firm strokes ought to do. |
JasonB | 26/05/2015 15:51:38 |
![]() 25215 forum posts 3105 photos 1 articles | Simple block of wood with two strips of hardwood fixed to the top to make a channel to take the tube, stop cut from thin material with a slot for two screws to lock it. if the strips were shallower than the tube OD you could just press it down by hand while cutting so no need for a clamp. Either roll a knife blade over the tube guided by teh slot or use a razor saw Edited By JasonB on 26/05/2015 15:55:11 |
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