Ball turning

Now know, its the same as mine without the milling head, I've fitted thin nuts to lock the gibb strip nuts and am modifying the dials to get rid of the spring which doesnt stop the dial from slipping.

Martin P

Just for information, there are two other methods of producing balls, especially if there is no real need for dead accuracy.

One is to use a hand held hollow/hollowed end tool with a sharp, ie cutting, edge on the end to form the ball. In other words, a specialized form tool.

The other method, which I used very successfully recently, is to calculate the necessary co-ordinates to enable a ball shape to be roughed out using a , eg, a narrow parting off tool to create a ball with a series of ridges. These ridges are then smoothed with a file, or three depending on how smooth you want it, and finished off with as smooth a device as you wish, eg emery paper. The resultant ball may not be dead accurate, but may well be good enough for practical purposes.

I found these ideas by trawling through old editions of ME.

Regards,

Peter G. Shaw

I have used both of your methods Peter when it's been for aesthetic.

How about a list or pictures of your mods on your Lathe Neil

.

Brian,

This isn't the easiest forum to navigate, but

you might have a look at this recent thread.

MichaelG.

sorry martin been out.

exact same but without milling head as you say.

any chance of more info or pics on your mods?

majn things i have done to mine is movable chip/ chuck guard using lineloc as original lasted about 2mins.

also fitted light with magnifier.

also cooling system using small parts washer.

Naughtyboy,

I'm currently confined to Barracks with a broken foot so not safe to go into the garage to take pictures, orders from SWMBO, but as soon as I can I will do so.

Martin P

cheers for that always looking for improvements.

Here's a list I did a little while ago, I don't think it's complete.

Mini Lathe Modifications

• 4” self-centring chuck and backplate
• Apron gear swarf shield
• Apron handwheel diameter reduction
• Carriage stop
• Cross slide travel increase
• Direct drive to spindle
• Geared carriage handwheel dial
• Headstock indexing attachment
• Headstock roller bearings
• Leadscrew backlash elimination
• Leadscrew handwheel
• Leadscrew handwheel index dial
• Leadscrew swarf shield
• Mandrel handle
• Modified feed nut
• New control box
• Quick change toolpost
• Quick release gear cover
• Rear swarf guard thumb nuts
• Simple leadscrew clutch
• Solid toolpost
• Tachometer
• Tailstock brass gib
• Tailstock index
• Tailstock quick release lever clamp
• Three-phase motor
• Topslide leadscrew mod
• T-slotted table
• Variable frequency drive
• Vertical slide mounting block

I've seen plenty of good ideas by others that could be added to that list.

Neil

Thank you Neil now you got my brain (single cell) working,Orderd a four inch self-centring chuck when I Orderd my lathe never used the three jaw still in box wish I could run to a six jaw, also have a four inch independent ,bought a revolving three jaw chuck with on a 2 mt for the tailstock on a whim surprised how many times I've used it. Brass gibs,DRO,quick release gear cover carriage stop and lock my machne is the blue and white one so the tailstock has the quick release I have also fixed the tailstock got fed up have to keep realigning the dam thing that's all I've done up to now I have been concentrating on my Mini mill the red version up to present have fitted DRO on all three axes managed to fit with only drilling two 4mm holes so all three can be removed in five minutes and the mill doesn't look like it's done a tour of Iraq I'am in the the process of making a sub table for the mill taped and drilled in 6and8mm.